Thank you for looking at the data and your input.

1) in your opinion would I be wasting my time trying to recondition those modules? I would like to try if there's a chance I could recondition them according to best known methods.
This is a procedure I got from the person I bought the for reconditioned modules from.
if not I will into put the money into a professionally reconditioned pack ants Bumblebee Batteries Gresham.
my goal is to get back to driving the Tahoe and keep it for a nice long time so I don't want to fool around for months just wasting my time. I would love to recondition my pack for cheap but I need to be realistic. Sometimes you get what you pay for.

 

Thanks for analyzing my data and your input.

1) Given that data, do you think my modules may respond to reconditioning?

2) if reconditioning my existing modules to create a good pack seems unlikely, I will seek a replacement pack from Bumblebee Batteries in Gresham.

I will list the procedure for reconditioning that I got from the person I purchased the four reconditioned modules from.

3) Please let me know if you think this is a sound procedure for reconditioning.

 

No. I don't think they will. Voltage response like that is indicative of irreversible damage.

First, I have a substantially different reconditioning process. I don't like four of the things mentioned. One of them is outright wrong, confusing and can damage modules; however, #4 is sensible.

Here's what Bumblebee is going to do:

Remove your 40 modules
Put them in the recycling bin
Install 40 tested/reconditioned modules into your pack
Send you happily on your way.

I suggest the following to cement the decision:

Let the pack sit for 24-72 hours (7+ days best) to allow the voltages to settle.

Exercise extreme caution while working with the pack.

Record all 40 module voltages

Pick 3: highest, lowest and mid-range

Remove the nuts of the 3 you want to test

Read your charger manual completely as it applies to charger settings, power requirements and the NiMH program.

Set charger as follows:

Settings:
NiMH sensitivity: 3mV
Set cap limit to 7500mAh
Disable time limit
Set WAIT time to 20 minutes - this is the time to wait between operations.

Enter NiMH menu and set:
Charge (man and auto if you have both) to 5-6.5A (highest your charger supports)
Discharge to 1A, 6.0V
Cycles to DCH/CHG 5

Attach charger to module terminals
Execute the DCH/CHG cycling.
Return in 12-24 hours and record the results of each cycle. If complete move to the next one.
Repeat for all 3 modules.

 

I think I've mentioned it before, but I'll say it here:

Reconditioning only improves capacity lost due to voltage depression. It will not do ANYTHING for modules that have sustained damage.

When I say "damage" I mean IRREPAIRABLE:
1) loss of cpacity
2) increase in internal resistance
3) increase in the rate of self-discharge

Reconditioning a damaged module might improve capacity some, but I have never seen them improve to an acceptable level.

 

Again great advice, priceless!

Thank you for putting a sanity check on the reconditioning process.

I will proceed with your suggestions.

And start saving for the replacement pack.

I will continue to update with progress or additional questions.

Jim

 

Jim and Steve. I have been told by an engineer who is doing battery consulting for many big players in the industry that.


Pulling high discharge amps through a NiMh individual cell when below 0.7 Cell volts, will do irreparable harm to the chemistry.


I agree with Steve on the do not try to recondition here.

 

Thank you for the additional information.
Jim

 

Any progress?

 

Hello everyone! help who can. first encountered a hybrid. bought a car with a bad engine. she didn't start. repaired the motor for a very long time. during this period of time, the battery has lost its charge. charged separately all 40 cans. started up great. but! running at idle, there are no errors. runs weird on petrol. if the car has switched to electricity. runs well at idle. but if you give acceleration, it immediately stalls and error P1A88-00 appears. who experienced, tell me where to look what to look for ?? please!!!!!!!

 

I live in Portland and my battery is brand new. I'm having issues with thr motor. (replaced with a salvage one and this one knocks too... I'd be willing to possibly scrap it out. the battery is still under warranty.