Hi Erich6:

___Excellent Job on the FE! You are doing exactly as you should imho and it will only get better, I promise! I would suggest easing into the techniques as you are in a very traffic dense area and there is a whole lot going on in your head besides just driving right now. For inner city like FE, FAS’es are what will make your City FE higher then your highway FE and given the much slower speeds, you are in fact safer overall. If you are in AS (Auto-stop) territory, by all means let the car do its thing but when slowing to a dead stop for a light up ahead while still above AS threshold speeds and interlocks, shut her down and coast on in using the FAS technique to the letter. High speed FAS’ and the Accord Hybrid do not work well together however. In most cases, you will lose your OD after re-engagement at speed so use your FAS wisely. Also understand that vacuum assisted brakes will fade after ~ 3 - 5 uses/taps and you do not want to be coasting into the back of the guy in front of you at 8 mph and find you lost your power assisted brakes. Your E-Brake can handle this slow speed quite easily so make sure your hand is on it ready to pull just in case.

___Another large fuel saver for high and moderate speed highway travel is DWL or “Driving w/ Load”. In this technique, you want to attempt to maintain the instantaneous meter at a given higher point. Let us say 50 mpg while climbing, cresting, and descending. Here is the model in action. You approach an overpass at 58 mph and 50 - 60 mpg on your NAVI’s TC (Info button – select Trip Computer). As you begin the climb, you slowly bleed off a little speed so that your Instantaneous stays at the same or close to the same as it was while cruising the flats before the overpass. You will reach the top at maybe 54 - 55 mph and your instantaneous will be at the same point. On the down slope or backside of the overpass, you will begin to slowly accelerate to pick up the speed you bled off while maintaining close to the same instantaneous. Because you have an FCD (Fuel Consumption Display), you can actually gain a bit on that back side and let her peg on the down slope. You will get the feel for the technique without even watching the meters after a few days but again, please pay max attention to the road because these techniques are drawing your attention away from where they should be when you are first starting out. After a few months, you will surprise yourself with your ability to be hyper-aware of the traffic and obstacles around you as well as the feedback provided by your meters and how the car actually “feels” when passing through the tranny’s shift points or when both entering into and then maintaining ECO mode w/ a slight assist only when its called for.

___As for the NAVI, it unfortunately will reboot and there is not anything you can do about it just yet. I am sure a simple bypass relay would solve that frustrating problem as Honda screwed that up but the devil is in the details. If I ever find a work around to solve that, you bet I am going to head down that mods path and will post the details for the few of us that own Honda hybrid’s and non-hybrids w/ NAVI.

___Good Luck

___Wayne R. Gerdes
___Waynegerdes@earthlink.net

 

43+!! I've only hit that a few times without cheating by resetting the display when warmed up and at speed. Good job!

 

Thanks everyone for the great informative posts! I'm certainly going to put your inputs to work.

Excel, thanks a bunch for the detailed information. Makes much more sense now. You would think there's a way to do bypass this NAVI reboot since Honda was able to do it with the automatic stop.... Sounds like a software upgrade request to me!

Um...cheating? Sorry, didn't know there were rules. The 43+ rating I got by reseting the trip odometer once I got on the freeway (a couple of miles from the office) but it does include about two miles after getting off the freeway and parking in my driveway. Are there some rules I should be following when posting FE numbers? Sorry for the ignorance....

Erich

 

Hello erich6 and welcome to the community!
One way to "cheat" the numbers would be to reset the FCD (Fuel Consumption Display) while the engine is already warmed up, then drive basically downhill for a few miles and claim something like "I got 85MPG on my way to the store"

In which case, this kind of thing only skews or "cheats" reality and is false and useless.

Personally, I usually note my trip MPG after I park and shut the engine down, and I reset the trip meter before I exit the car. That way I have a freshly reset gauge before the car is even restarted the next time.
I'm sure others do it differently but the idea is to get as accurate reading as possible.
Additionally I know what I can do for MPG upon my daily commute, and I set a goal to meet (or beat) that number.

I'm not sure if the HAH has two trip meters but I use Trip A for individual trips and trip meter B for tank average.
Some folks use trip B for lifetime average but in my case I'll occasionally reset the wrong one so it wouldn't work for me.

Posting in the database should use the miles divided by gallons used method for the whole tank.

 

No rules, just norms.

The usually accepted mpg method is from start to stop, not resetting once you're warmed up and at speed.

It's useful to do resets sometimes, though, to check out individual segments. But "commute" or "trip" mpg normally implies door-to-door, around here at least.

In the end, all sins are confessed at the pump anyway.

PS- I use tripA for daily trips/segments and tripB for entire tanks also.

 

Just for further info, there is a glossary here, at the upper lefthand corner, next to user cp, below the thread ID, which may be of use to you.

 

OK. I understand. I usually let the trip computer accumulate the per-tank mileage so I'll report that instead. I'll also make sure I conform to the "norm" of from switch on to switch off.

Thanks,

Erich