Engine Animations
. . .
So my next question is that on the MFD I've noticed that if I press down on the gas even a little, the electric motor seems to kick in briefly then kick back out - is it being used to increase the rotation of the ICE? Does the ICE basically turn very efficiently at one constant RPM but takes the electric motors slowing it or accelerating it to vary its RPM in either direction?
So my next question is that on the MFD I've noticed that if I press down on the gas even a little, the electric motor seems to kick in briefly then kick back out - is it being used to increase the rotation of the ICE? Does the ICE basically turn very efficiently at one constant RPM but takes the electric motors slowing it or accelerating it to vary its RPM in either direction?
There is an engine rpm range where the ICE is producing power at peak efficiency, from 1,200-2,400 (measured with my NHW11.) As the rpm goes higher, I'm seeing a decrease in specific fuel efficiency that really becomes noticeable above 3,200. But sometimes, the power is needed.
Has anyone ever tried a catalytic converter heater instead of an engine block heater? Seems like heating the cat up before driving would have a bigger impact on the first few minutes' efficiency than heating the engine block... smaller part to heat up too, and maybe more open to access.
Bob Wilson
So my next question is that on the MFD I've noticed that if I press down on the gas even a little, the electric motor seems to kick in briefly then kick back out - is it being used to increase the rotation of the ICE? Does the ICE basically turn very efficiently at one constant RPM but takes the electric motors slowing it or accellerating it to vary its RPM in either direction?
I see, so the electric motor is really just kicking in to avoid the impression of "lag" on pressing the accellerator. So it sounds like pressing the accellerator gradually would make some impact on MPG - you avoid using the electric motor as much to cover lag. If you press it below a certain rate when the ICE is running do you avoid using the electric motor completely (avoid it kicking in to hide lag)?
Would an engine block heater and a cat heater make sense? 350C is amazingly hot though - I wonder what the electricity cost would be to get an electrical resistor that hot? As a big metal box though you'd only need the resistor that hot very briefly as it would conduct into the cat pretty effectively.
Would an engine block heater and a cat heater make sense? 350C is amazingly hot though - I wonder what the electricity cost would be to get an electrical resistor that hot? As a big metal box though you'd only need the resistor that hot very briefly as it would conduct into the cat pretty effectively.
Last edited by SoopahMan; Feb 7, 2007 at 03:03 PM.
I see, so the electric motor is really just kicking in to avoid the impression of "lag" on pressing the accellerator. So it sounds like pressing the accellerator gradually would make some impact on MPG - you avoid using the electric motor as much to cover lag. If you press it below a certain rate when the ICE is running do you avoid using the electric motor completely (avoid it kicking in to hide lag)?
Would an engine block heater and a cat heater make sense? 350C is amazingly hot though - I wonder what the electricity cost would be to get an electrical resistor that hot? As a big metal box though you'd only need the resistor that hot very briefly as it would conduct into the cat pretty effectively.
Would an engine block heater and a cat heater make sense? 350C is amazingly hot though - I wonder what the electricity cost would be to get an electrical resistor that hot? As a big metal box though you'd only need the resistor that hot very briefly as it would conduct into the cat pretty effectively.
Theres an interaction, but its kinda hard to put a finger on it... the push from the electric motor is often supplied by the battery, which might have been recharged by regen (in which case the energy is "free" ie you would have lost it in braking and you've recaptured it) there is also some direct recharge of the battery on most of these things, in which case there is a direct MPG relationship.
I think if you hit it too hard it wil cost you and if you baby it too much it will cost you as well.
I can't say for a Prius, but for an FEH a CAT heater isn't useful since the CAT temperature seems to be inferred from the coolant temp (no temp sensor in the CAT). An engine block heater can get you into EV mode on an Escape faster so I'd assume thats also true of a Prius.
Ah... I see. So heating the engine block has the indirect effect of causing the CPU to assume the cat converter is ready to go as well... when in fact it may very well not be. The gas savings is more because you're gaming the CPU than because everything is really ready to go.
Ah... I see. So heating the engine block has the indirect effect of causing the CPU to assume the cat converter is ready to go as well... when in fact it may very well not be. The gas savings is more because you're gaming the CPU than because everything is really ready to go.
There are direct and indirect effects of the coolant temperature. It turns out that 'spoofing' the coolant temperature modifies the 2001-2003 Prius control laws so it behaves more like the current model. But it can't fool the oil viscosity. So if you spoof a warmer coolant temperature too soon, the ICE will stall . . . like a regular engine.
Bob Wilson
The catalytic converter temperatures are detected by the O(2) sensor voltages, not the coolant temperatures. Until the O(2) sensors get hot enough to generate a mixture voltage, the catalytic converters are 'too cool.'
There are direct and indirect effects of the coolant temperature. It turns out that 'spoofing' the coolant temperature modifies the 2001-2003 Prius control laws so it behaves more like the current model. But it can't fool the oil viscosity. So if you spoof a warmer coolant temperature too soon, the ICE will stall . . . like a regular engine.
Bob Wilson
There are direct and indirect effects of the coolant temperature. It turns out that 'spoofing' the coolant temperature modifies the 2001-2003 Prius control laws so it behaves more like the current model. But it can't fool the oil viscosity. So if you spoof a warmer coolant temperature too soon, the ICE will stall . . . like a regular engine.
Bob Wilson
I know nothing about the Prius O2 sensors, so in that case you likely know more than I do.
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