![]() |
Re: P1A10, Another "Stop Safely Now" Thread
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by S Keith
(Post 271528)
I went completely cross-eyed halfway through that. It looks like it retained many prior codes as suggested by the numerous "not present at time of request".
Go into the DTC tab and clear the codes. re-check codes. ===PCM DTC P1000:00-2B=== Code: P1000 - OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module ===END PCM DTC P1000:00-2B=== ===PCM DTC P1A14:00-2B=== Code: P1A14 - Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Transmission Disabled Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module ===END PCM DTC P1A14:00-2B=== ===PCM DTC U0111:00-2B=== Code: U0111 - Lost Communication With Battery Energy Control Module A Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module ===END PCM DTC U0111:00-2B=== ===OBDII DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: On Board Diagnostic II ===END OBDII DTC None=== ===ABS DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Antilock braking system ===END ABS DTC None=== ===RCM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Restraint Control Module ===END RCM DTC None=== ===TCM DTC P0A0A-FF=== Code: P0A0A - High Voltage System Inter-lock Circuit Module: Transmission Control Module ===END TCM DTC P0A0A-FF=== ===APIM DTC B1136-60=== Code: B1136 - Audio Steering Wheel Switch 2 Circuit Failure Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Accessory Protocol Interface Module ===END APIM DTC B1136-60=== ===OCS DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Occupant Classification System Module ===END OCS DTC None=== ===4X4M DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: 4X4 Control Module ===END 4X4M DTC None=== ===PSCM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Power Steering Control Module ===END PSCM DTC None=== ===IC DTC U0111-60=== Code: U0111 - Lost Communication With Battery Energy Control Module A Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Instrument Cluster ===END IC DTC U0111-60=== ===IC DTC U2511-60=== Code: U2511 - CAN communication bus fault Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Instrument Cluster ===END IC DTC U2511-60=== ===FDIM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Front Display Interface Module ===END FDIM DTC None=== ===SDARS DTC B1031-60=== Code: B1031 - SDARS Satellite Antenna Open Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Satellite Digital Audio Receiver System ===END SDARS DTC B1031-60=== ===SDARS DTC U0255-60=== Code: U0255 - Lost Communication With Front Controls Interface Module Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Satellite Digital Audio Receiver System ===END SDARS DTC U0255-60=== ===HVAC DTC B12A5-60=== Code: B12A5 - Mode Door Actuator, Feedback Circuit Open or Shorted to Battery Voltage Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning ===END HVAC DTC B12A5-60=== ===HVAC DTC B298A-60=== Code: B298A - Mode Door Actuator Drive Circuit(s) Open Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning ===END HVAC DTC B298A-60=== ===HVAC DTC B12B8-20=== Code: B12B8 - Driver Blend Door Actuator, Slow or Door Obstructed Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning ===END HVAC DTC B12B8-20=== ===GEM/SJB DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Generic Electronic Module / Smart Junction Box ===END GEM/SJB DTC None=== |
Re: P1A10, Another "Stop Safely Now" Thread
This is going to be a tough one.
Go into the Oscilloscope menu, select BCM at the bottom, click the settings wheel to select data, move all items to the right and click the checkmark. Select Table view Hit the play button Take screenshots of all the data and post Scour the engine compartment for loose or broken wires, especially the 3 large plugs at the back of the compartment on the firewall. That's the PCM. Remove the plugs and inspect each plug/wire/socket for corrosion. Check ALL fuses. |
Re: P1A10, Another "Stop Safely Now" Thread
This has been SOLVED.
Here is my “I have no idea what I am doing” guide to fixing this Let me start with what happened, in case someone is googleing this. I left the 2009 Ford Hybrid Escape (4x4) to sit, while we traveled. I left the 12volt battery connected, which I have now learned- you shouldn’t do. It sat for 14 days or so and would not start on my return. I thought the 12 volt battery needed to be charged, so I left it on a standard trickle charger. The 12 volt battery at this point is only 30 days old. Once charged, I attempted to turn it over. The SUV turned over and I put it in gear. The SUV immediately stopped and the dash warning lights all lit up and I got the dreaded “Stop Safely Now” (SSN) message. I pushed the SUV back into place and got to work. I checked the 12volt battery, bringing it into a car parts store to have it checked- it was good. I started looking up the dash warning lights. The SSN message, red triangle and flashing check engine light pointed to the hybrid battery being the problem. I knew I was going to need to read the codes to be sure. I ordered a Scan gauge 2- complete waste of money. Don’t bother. I ordered a “ForScan ODB2” reader from amazon. I ordered . It plugs into a laptop. Keep the CD that comes with it! You will need it to install the drivers on a laptop. I choose this one because I knew I could save the logs to upload to these forums quickly. The codes (DTC) I got back were: Code: U0111 - Lost Communication With Battery Energy Control Module A Code: U3003 - Battery Voltage Code: P0562 - System Voltage Low Code: P0A0A - High Voltage System Inter-lock Circuit Code: U2472 - Unexpected Ignition State Code: U2023 - Fault Received from External Node Code: U2511 - CAN communication bus fault Code: P1A10 – Hybrid Powertrain Control Module Battery Disabled A quick search here on the forums told me that again, this pointed towards the hybrid battery having a low voltage. A not so quick call to 12 dealerships within 200 miles of me taught me that no one had the special cable needed to charge the battery. All of them said they could order it. BUT- I would have to pay for shipping to the dealership, one weeks ‘rent’ of the cable, the one hour of labor and the shipping back to the factory. I was floored by this. I was looking at close to $1800 in costs. Not to mention the towing fee to get to the dealer. I knew I would have to do this myself and I could do it cheaper. Problem is, I don’t know shite about electronics, let alone about the 330v of literal heart stopping hybrid battery power. I leaned heavy on this forum and here is how I did it. How to pull the battery out of the SUV: I Followed How to open the battery: I followed Here is a Imgur link to a 'more complete' image gallery of the next steps (https://imgur.com/a/iV89R9y). It has full size images and more details. To be honest, I charged the battery only one time using the steps below- and it didn’t work. I had to take the battery back out and completely re do everything. The second time I took the hybrid battery out, I was convinced I was going to have to replace some bad hybrid cells. Fortunately, I did not have to do that. Below are the steps I took to ‘recondition’ the battery – which is simply charging and discharging the hybrid battery more than once. I chose to remove all three of these pieces, because I was sure that I was going to have to remove bad hybrid cells. Remove These First. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...0211592610.png You don’t need to remove the safety plug if you don’t want to, here is the polarity on my safety plug. Again, I chose to remove it because I was sure I was going to have to replace dead hybrid cells. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...ef32c885b9.jpg This is what it looks like when all the pieces are removed, and the charge points are exposed over here. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...12b4130f25.png https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...9960877427.png These are the ‘nails’ that I used to transmit a current from the hybrid battery trickle charger to the hybrid battery. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...6be56f0a36.png You can also use the flat metal strips in this box , but I chose not to. For one, I didn’t want to take apart more than I had to, and two, I didn’t want to risk touching anything accidentally and getting shocked. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...3594ea0bbb.png Here is a picture with the ‘nails’ snug in the charge points. You have to charge bottom to bottom and top to top. This is because the batteries are separated into two ‘racks’ one on top, and another on bottom. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...268ad838d7.png This is the ‘trickle charger’ made for hybrid batteries. From everything I read on these forums, you can’t use a 12volt car battery trickle charger. I am not sure I understand why- but I respected that it wasn’t possible. There is a sweet post on these forums on how to build a charger yourself. But I really, truly know next to nothing about wiring and felt I could not do this. I bought one for $200 from This guy over at Venice Hybrid Tech. He has awesome videos on how to use these charges and why they work. I know next to nothing about electronics so I knew I couldn’t build my own safely, but I can do a simple gator clip to nail. $200 was worth it, and he held my hand through every step of this. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...1aef0da440.jpg The charger always shows negative - so ignore that. You need to use a multimeter to find out which side is positive and which side is negative on the hybrid battery charge points. You will need to know this so you can attached the clips from the trickle charger to the correct ‘nail’ (red to positive, black to negative) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...947620c6eb.png I attached the red to positive and black to negative and charged away! For reference- before I charged the hybrid battery the bottom rack was reading 80 volts and the top was reading 110 volts. Really dead. Make sure you leave a fan on the hybrid battery while charging! The cells heat up really fast when charging! I placed a box fan right on top of it. I set another box fan to blow straight at it. I charged it for 3 hours on top, checking for heat and voltage every hour. I unplugged the charger, moved the nails to the bottom, checked the polarity and set the bottom to charge for three hours. I never had a problem with heat in the cells, or the trickle charger. As I said on top, I charged it once and put the hybrid battery back in, and it didn’t work. I charged it to 169 top and 140 bottom. So I realized I had to discharge and recharge the battery several times (recondition the battery). I used a 1000 watt halogen shop lamp to discharge the battery. I picked up a cheap one for $35 over at harbor freight. I then had to build a discharge cord- with next to no knowledge on how to do this. To do this I grabbed: 15-Amp 125-Volt General-Duty 5-15r Straight Connector (looks like the end of an extension cord- female) 16-2 Lamp cord 5 feet Electrical tape Gator Clip Insulated 22-14 gauge 2 pack I opened the extension cord plug and followed this https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...290104a933.png I then attached the alligator clips of the discharge cord to the ‘nails’ using the same polarity as the trickle charger. Red to positive, black to negative – bottom to bottom, top to top. I then plugged the female extension cord end into the male end of the shop light. The light lit up and started to discharge the battery! The light went out after 30 mins- but it continued to discharge over the next three hours. I learned that I had to remove the lamp from the nails to take a proper reading on the nails to see if they were actually discharged to one volt. If I took a reading with the lamp still attached, I got a reading of zero. Which wasn’t correct. After I discharged the bottom, I moved the nails and did the top. It took about 3-5 hours for each rack to discharge. I Discharged the battery five times and charged it six times. Here’s what I got after every charge: 169 top and 140 bottom 174 top and 151 bottom 180 top and 160 bottom 190 top and 174 bottom 199 top and 186 bottom 210 top and 199 bottom At this point I had to make a decision: Put the battery back in and see if it works or take it completely apart and check for dead battery cells. I chose to put it back in as the batteries were now over 200. I put the battery back in and I ‘reset’ the computer. To do this I took the positive and negative terminals from the 12volt battery under the hood and ‘touched’ them together for 10 mins. I made sure they could not touch the battery by placing a piece of very heavy fabric between them and the battery. After 10 mins I put them back on the 12v battery, turned the key to “on” and got no stop safety now message! I then ran Forscan to clear and DTC codes. Once I did that, It came back clean! No codes. I then turned over the suv successfully. It went straight to engine run, not electric run. I drove it around the block, breaking frequently to charge the hybrid battery for about 30 mins. No problems as of yet and no DTC codes! All together I have about $250 wrapped up into this and about 3 or 4 days worth of babysitting the charging into it. |
Re: P1A10, Another "Stop Safely Now" Thread
Well. I'm glad you got it fixed.
You would have been better served by using the cheaper PSU recommended and using the nails to charge the entire pack at once. You selected the worst grid charger on the market. I'm amazed Raj is still finding suckers. The idea in the other thread is to create a permanent means of charging the battery should this ever happen again. There was no added value to the discharges. None whatsoever. Had your pack had any marginal cells in it, you likely would have caused them to fail. Discharges should only follow full charges to 100% SoC meaning 24 hours per charge with active cooling. 3 hours of charging between discharges is completely ineffective. Had you simply procured the LED supply, charged the whole battery with your nails for 2-4 hours and reassembled it, You would have been done in an afternoon at a fraction of the cost. The 5 discharges and 6 charges were a complete waste of time and represented far more risk than reward. When a hybrid battery has discharged to the point that it will not start the vehicle... it needs charging, not discharging. I VIGOROUSLY encourage you to use the balance function in forscan to actually do something akin to reconditioning your battery. |
Re: P1A10, Another "Stop Safely Now" Thread
Originally Posted by S Keith
(Post 271551)
Well. I'm glad you got it fixed.
Originally Posted by S Keith
(Post 271551)
You would have been better served by using the cheaper PSU recommended and using the nails to charge the entire pack at once. You selected the worst grid charger on the market. I'm amazed Raj is still finding suckers. The idea in the other thread is to create a permanent means of charging the battery should this ever happen again.
Originally Posted by S Keith
(Post 271551)
There was no added value to the discharges. None whatsoever. Had your pack had any marginal cells in it, you likely would have caused them to fail. Discharges should only follow full charges to 100% SoC meaning 24 hours per charge with active cooling. 3 hours of charging between discharges is completely ineffective.
Originally Posted by S Keith
(Post 271551)
Had you simply procured the LED supply, charged the whole battery with your nails for 2-4 hours and reassembled it, You would have been done in an afternoon at a fraction of the cost. The 5 discharges and 6 charges were a complete waste of time and represented far more risk than reward.
Originally Posted by S Keith
(Post 271551)
When a hybrid battery has discharged to the point that it will not start the vehicle... it needs charging, not discharging.
Originally Posted by S Keith
(Post 271551)
I VIGOROUSLY encourage you to use the balance function in forscan to actually do something akin to reconditioning your battery.
|
Re: P1A10, Another "Stop Safely Now" Thread
There are too many inconsistencies. A pack voltage of 210+199 = 409V is NOT possible. Only under HEAVY regenerative braking on a battery at the upper charge range would you see that voltage. Never at rest.
With that 300-350mA charger, the highest possible voltage you could obtain after 24 hours of charging is around 360V. My hope is that whatever meter you used to take those measurements is grossly inaccurate, and the reason it didn't start on the first try is you were actually lower than the 309V measured. Forscan: Click the wrench icon. It will be one of the BCM tests. |
Re: P1A10, Another "Stop Safely Now" Thread
Originally Posted by S Keith
(Post 271553)
With that 300-350mA charger, the highest possible voltage you could obtain after 24 hours of charging is around 360V.
Originally Posted by S Keith
(Post 271553)
My hope is that whatever meter you used to take those measurements is grossly inaccurate, and the reason it didn't start on the first try is you were actually lower than the 309V measured.
Originally Posted by S Keith
(Post 271553)
Forscan: Click the wrench icon. It will be one of the BCM tests.
|
Re: P1A10, Another "Stop Safely Now" Thread
Here is my SoC (State of Charge). It's not good, but the battery is almost 12 years old...
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...5614a77c9a.png For those that come later here is how I got these numbers in Forscan: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...acdfd90d37.png https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...70c8f6e2e1.png 1. Select the "graph" tab. 2. Select the "BCM" from the bottom slector 3. Make sure you picked "BCM" from the drop down 4. Click the "gear icon" on the bottom. 5.A pop up window appears. 6. Highlight the settings you want to see and hit the "right arrow" to move them to the "play window" 7. Hit the check mark when you have the ones you want- the pop up will disappear and your settings will appear in the dashboard window of the "graph" tab. 8. Hit play to start the live read. |
Re: P1A10, Another "Stop Safely Now" Thread
SOC is maintained around 50%. Battery efficiency is near 100% around 50%. If SOC was at 100%, you couldn't charge the battery when you hit the brakes.
The HV battery is just a energy recovery and release system. It's primary function is to capture kinetic energy via regenerative braking and release it during acceleration when the gas engine is most inefficient. I would move all but the "P0A1F_..." items into the display and list them. DEL_MOD_V is the single most relevant item for battery health. With batteries that appear to be healthy, I routinely see values of .19 or .25. This number represents the largest deviation between the measured cell groups. If you actually have a failed cell, this number will be over 1.0V. It's a good idea to also check it 24 hours after the car has been idle in the Key-ON Engine-OFF state. The Rmode balances I have run tend to take 15-30 minutes the first time. It's probably a good idea to do this periodically - twice a year, before and after your warm season. Something to consider - you can hear when the engine is loaded and charging the battery. If you need to park the car again for an extended period, you could initiate the rmode balance function and then terminate it when the engine stops charging the battery. This should ensure the battery is at a higher state of charge. |
Re: P1A10, Another "Stop Safely Now" Thread
S. Keith, thanks, another great insight.
"Something to consider - you can hear when the engine is loaded and charging the battery. If you need to park the car again for an extended period, you could initiate the rmode balance function and then terminate it when the engine stops charging the battery. This should ensure the battery is at a higher state of charge." If an owner were to do this, what higher SOC range would you expect to see? Is there any negative aspect of terminating "rmode" prematurely? |
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:18 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands