Low MPG - 2006 FEH AWD
The information provided is not consistent with the conclusion. You do not need a hybrid battery based on the information provided. You need legitimate data. Dealer is likely full of ****.
"Adventurous" is the wrong word. "Foolhardy" is the correct word. You're assuming that 1) you'll be able to test them in a meaningful way and 2) you'll be able to identify good vs. bad consistently to a degree that will improve the situation. I can guarantee you that unless you have lots of free time with nothing better to do and are looking for an experimental project that is almost certainly going to fail to achieve the desired outcome, your time would be better spent setting your heat on fire and putting it out with a hammer.
You started this thread in Feb. While Houston isn't COLD, it's not hot in February. If you run climate heat, the only source of heat is the engine, so the engine will run if you demand more heat. Additionally, a battery below 50°F can't be charged at max rate, or it will be damaged, so the car meters overall hybrid function even in "cool" weather.
Do the following things:
1) Get the vehicle fully warmed up and stabilized to where engine will shut off at a stop consistently. Pick a 10+ mile course with level terrain and run it in both directions. Reset the mpg meter at the start of each leg once 65mph has been obtained and hold 65mph until the end of the leg. Average the two mpg readings.
2) Get Forscan and come back for instructions.
"Adventurous" is the wrong word. "Foolhardy" is the correct word. You're assuming that 1) you'll be able to test them in a meaningful way and 2) you'll be able to identify good vs. bad consistently to a degree that will improve the situation. I can guarantee you that unless you have lots of free time with nothing better to do and are looking for an experimental project that is almost certainly going to fail to achieve the desired outcome, your time would be better spent setting your heat on fire and putting it out with a hammer.
You started this thread in Feb. While Houston isn't COLD, it's not hot in February. If you run climate heat, the only source of heat is the engine, so the engine will run if you demand more heat. Additionally, a battery below 50°F can't be charged at max rate, or it will be damaged, so the car meters overall hybrid function even in "cool" weather.
Do the following things:
1) Get the vehicle fully warmed up and stabilized to where engine will shut off at a stop consistently. Pick a 10+ mile course with level terrain and run it in both directions. Reset the mpg meter at the start of each leg once 65mph has been obtained and hold 65mph until the end of the leg. Average the two mpg readings.
2) Get Forscan and come back for instructions.
Also, just in case this infomation is relevant...within a mile of leaving the dealership the engine light came on. Brought it right back thinking maybe somehow the tech set something off. They just called me with an update--code is P0171 and I need a new MAF sensor. I'll be replacing this myself for a much lower cost. I just read that this sensor can affect MPG.
Indeed it can.
I own a Scangauge. I plugged it into one vehicle. I unplugged it and lost it. I haven't missed it or ever wished I knew where it was. From a consumer perspective, it's "nifty." From a professional diagnostic perspective, it's of negligible value. Forscan is capable of "lite" professional grade diagnostics.
Air filter, spark plugs, O2 sensor, dirty throttle body, MAF sensor, etc. can all have an influence on mpg. Are you running the correct tires with proper inflation?
I own a Scangauge. I plugged it into one vehicle. I unplugged it and lost it. I haven't missed it or ever wished I knew where it was. From a consumer perspective, it's "nifty." From a professional diagnostic perspective, it's of negligible value. Forscan is capable of "lite" professional grade diagnostics.
Air filter, spark plugs, O2 sensor, dirty throttle body, MAF sensor, etc. can all have an influence on mpg. Are you running the correct tires with proper inflation?
Indeed it can.
I own a Scangauge. I plugged it into one vehicle. I unplugged it and lost it. I haven't missed it or ever wished I knew where it was. From a consumer perspective, it's "nifty." From a professional diagnostic perspective, it's of negligible value. Forscan is capable of "lite" professional grade diagnostics.
Air filter, spark plugs, O2 sensor, dirty throttle body, MAF sensor, etc. can all have an influence on mpg. Are you running the correct tires with proper inflation?
I own a Scangauge. I plugged it into one vehicle. I unplugged it and lost it. I haven't missed it or ever wished I knew where it was. From a consumer perspective, it's "nifty." From a professional diagnostic perspective, it's of negligible value. Forscan is capable of "lite" professional grade diagnostics.
Air filter, spark plugs, O2 sensor, dirty throttle body, MAF sensor, etc. can all have an influence on mpg. Are you running the correct tires with proper inflation?
Air filter and MAF sensor will be replaced this week. Spark plugs were replaced a couple months ago by previous owner and confirmed by dealer.
The vehicle is still at Ford right now so I can't confirm the tires on it, but I'm confident inflation is correct. What would would be considered the "correct" tires for this vehicle?
i definitely wanted scanguage because after i joined (right after i bought my first hybrid (2009 escape hybrid limited)) that there was no coolant temperature
gauge and that owners bought and installed scanguage for that purpose. Interesting !
i use crc throttle body cleaner and then also use crc maf cleaner (something to do every year but i have only put on 2k miles in the year that i have now had
my escape) so i may not be doing that next month (bought in march 2020).. the previous owner put in a k and n filter (wash and reoil works for that).
back to scangauge - i contacted scanguage and they told me you could only doing readings of the various parameters and could not change programs
(no write to ...) and i wanted to turn off the drl (so i never bought it).
tires on my 2009 are 235 70 16 (factory original size) and the previous owner changed that to 225 75 16 (which is exactly what i would have done);
tire pressure that i run is the max that i printed on the sidewall of the tire.
gauge and that owners bought and installed scanguage for that purpose. Interesting !
i use crc throttle body cleaner and then also use crc maf cleaner (something to do every year but i have only put on 2k miles in the year that i have now had
my escape) so i may not be doing that next month (bought in march 2020).. the previous owner put in a k and n filter (wash and reoil works for that).
back to scangauge - i contacted scanguage and they told me you could only doing readings of the various parameters and could not change programs
(no write to ...) and i wanted to turn off the drl (so i never bought it).
tires on my 2009 are 235 70 16 (factory original size) and the previous owner changed that to 225 75 16 (which is exactly what i would have done);
tire pressure that i run is the max that i printed on the sidewall of the tire.
On my '10 FEH I'm running Michelin Latitude 235/70R16s. They're 6 years old and about 2/3rds used up, approximately 30,000 miles old. Even so, they're still tractable in light snow and I really like them. Michelins aren't cheap tires, but this was a doctor's car prior to this. I would go with Michelins again unless someone has a better suggestion.
@fglaustin: I'd like to know why you would switch to the 225/75R16s? Taller aspect ratio = a little bit better bumpy road cushion, narrower footprint = less drag and better resistance to hydroplaning? I know this car isn't a skidpad monster (and I don't drive it that way) so max-G cornering performance isn't as important as mileage, overall ride, and resistance to hydroplaning.
The 235/70R16s fit the rims pretty well but I'd like to hear your rationale.
Thanks!
@fglaustin: I'd like to know why you would switch to the 225/75R16s? Taller aspect ratio = a little bit better bumpy road cushion, narrower footprint = less drag and better resistance to hydroplaning? I know this car isn't a skidpad monster (and I don't drive it that way) so max-G cornering performance isn't as important as mileage, overall ride, and resistance to hydroplaning.
The 235/70R16s fit the rims pretty well but I'd like to hear your rationale.
Thanks!
Last edited by AlexK; Feb 23, 2021 at 02:19 PM.
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