Am I reading this correctly? You are accelerating from 25 to 35 mph while the FEH is purely in EV mode? I could never increase my speeds higher than 25 in EV mode. I guess the added weight of the equipment needed for the 4wd operation is what makes it hard to accelerate in EV mode without the assistance from the ICE.

I haven't tried the "fake shifts" yet since I haven't been too comfortable trying it yet, I'll have to try it. Though I've been able glide quite a distance (down a slight incline) with a speed around 45 mph.

Rich

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by rihavo

Am I reading this correctly? You are accelerating from 25 to 35 mph while the FEH is purely in EV mode? I could never increase my speeds higher than 25 in EV mode. I guess the added weight of the equipment needed for the 4wd operation is what makes it hard to accelerate in EV mode without the assistance from the ICE.

I haven't tried the "fake shifts" yet since I haven't been too comfortable trying it yet, I'll have to try it. Though I've been able glide quite a distance (down a slight incline) with a speed around 45 mph.

Rich

Rich –
I also have a AWD and with a very steady foot – actually letting up ever so slightly on the gas as I approach 30mph – I can accelerate from a dead stop in EV to at least 35 on a flat road. The fastest I have – or is possible to achieve in EV or even while in 'N' - is 40mph, this is true for all FEHs not just the 4WD.

Edited Quote: Gary I am pretty sure that your statement about the FWD using less juice to get to 35 - or even stay there – is true. I guess it has to do with the little extra resistance/friction of the extra mechanical components for AWD models. This may not be the answer because as I understand it AWD (Rear wheels) is only engaged when needed and not like a Locked 4WD. So without research I guess the AWD is basically a FWD unless needed.

I, like Mark, use the ‘fake shift’ at low speed (25-30mph) while in EV (and in ‘L’) also to get a boost in SoC and therefore a longer run in EV. I also do it a lot of times right before I drop it into ‘N’ for a glide to have just a little more in the battery when I put it back in ‘D’ or ‘L’ (depending on conditions). Most of the times when I have been coasting in ‘N’ and will be coming to a stop I am shifting back and forth between ‘D’ and ‘L’ to break. As long as your speed is above 30mph there is a charge in ‘D’ then shift to 'L' to keep the charge going for as long as I can without coming to a stop before I need to.

Just a thought.

 

At least on mine, I've developed a feel for it, especially if you watch the charge/assist on how much is enough to turn the ICE on. By avoiding that point, via fake shift, and with a good level or "declining" road, I can EV up to pretty good speeds.

The other point I wanted to make is that I realized just what a lazy braker I've become. When I slow down, I apply a minute amount of pressure to the brakes (when there's people behind me), shift into L and then drift in, applying pressure as/if needed. What's "worse" is that if I have to slow down a lot, I'll apply the brake pressure, shift into L, then release the brake pressure to compensate for shifting into L, then reapply if needed!

 

Right on - We make it sound like it is a Sin to acutally use the brake pads

 

Rich and Phillip,
Thanks, I'll definitely have to give it a try. The best mpg I've been able to see was around 34 mpg so far without trying the fakeshifts...

Phillip and Gary,
Do you know what the weight difference is between the FWD model and the AWD models. Phillip, as you mentioned in your post, the AWD model acts like a FWD model uless it decides it needs the extra traction and engages the rear wheels. However since the equipment (rear diff and all) is constantly on the vehicle(s), could this be the reason for the difference between in the EV modes between the 2 models?

What do you think?

Thanks,
Rich

 

Hi All

The LGA has some disadvantages if you drive in "L" all the time. Wayne (xcel), had me conduct some more test today. By accident, I found some results you maybe interrested in. I added a new section to my article at http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=350 This maybe the most important find in awhile. It is for me any how.

GaryG

 

I thought so. I argued that ages ago as to why you probably shouldn't spend all your time in L.

Good to see some numbers backing it up.

 

In temperatures of about 85'F and above, the A/C is running nearly all the time to cool the battery pack, as outside air does little good at these elevated temps.

So... while you may be OK with the windows down driving, you might as well use cabin A/C ( in a white setting ) during these times.

Especially if you use a lot of EV and LGA, running the cabin A/C in a white mode may be the best of both worlds. I've noticed my ICE will not shut off at lights if the battery pack is hot. By running the A/C while driving, it usually acts as a pre-emptive strike, and the battery is cool enough to allow ICE shutdown, even in 105'F weather ( which I've had about 2 weeks of and counting )

Still getting over 40 MPG with A/C use daily, with good battery management.
-John

 

Keeping the battery cool with the cabin A/C cooling yourself will make your EV operation much better. If you start getting hot, so is your battery! If the battery gets hot, you and the battery pay at the pump and the lifetime of the battery.

A hot battery will not perform near as good as a cool battery, so why drive and suffer. You and I can get 45mpg in 90F if we drive EV, and keep things cool during acceleration.

Above 95F, keep the AC on max in the city or below 40mph! I go to the highway and draft myself.

GaryG

 

I think tomorrow when it is 102° (in Boston!), I may finally break down and use the a/c on max.

And I was having a 38+ mpg tank too.....