Hi Steve. I have the same problem as everyone else. I have and 09 Escape Hybrid that I let sit too long and now the HV battery is discharged. I disassembled my battery per your instruction (Great instructions, thank you) and now need to build a power supply to recharge my battery. My current reading in 242V. My question is for a 110V setup do I need the LPC-100-350 AND APC-35-350? Do I need both or either one? They both look like power supplies so I'm confused. Do you have a thread on how to wire them?

Second question. I like your idea about leaving an XT60 wiring harness in place in case this happens again. Do you have a thread on that? Or is it just running leads to the positive and negative terminals in the photo in your original post?

 

(1) Both.

You wire their AC inputs in parallel and attach to a power cord. I just cut the female end off one of the many computer power supply cords I have.

DC output wired as follows:

(-)-------LPC100-350------(+)(-)-----APC35-350-----(+)

Given their disparity in output lead length, I cut the extra off the (+) end of the LPC and attach it to the (+) end of the APC.

I make all of the above wire connections with wire nuts of a suitable size for the wire gauge.

The outer (-) and (+) leads go to the XT-60 connector, soldered, with sleeves on both to cover the brass/solder and a larger one over the end of the connector and the pair of wires. NOTE that the polarity of the connector is marked on it, or they should be. The tapered end is (-).

(2) Yes. You run a wire down and out the left side of the relay cover, back along the right edge of the battery sticks, behind the safety plug and out the right side of the case at the back. Cut a small notch out of the seal and groove (yes, cut the plastic).

If you want to never have lethal voltage at the harness plug, wire a diode (400V/1A minimum spec) into the harness on the (+) wire with the diode stripe on the battery terminal side. You could use the male XT60 on the pack with the semi-exposed leads and never have a shock hazard and then use the female on the charger.

Please link to the instructions you used. They could probably use a refresh.

Since you have the open cavity where the old charger was, you might consider a creating mounting solution where everything is internal, and you simply have a female receptacle for a computer power cord to supply AC power to the power supplies, or you just have the power cord sticking out. Note that you will STILL NEED A DIODE somewhere in the DC connection between the supplies and the battery. The supplies don't like high voltage pushing back at them, so they need a diode. In that case, I would up the diode spec to 600V since 400V could be breached via high current regen braking.

Get a 200W inverter, and guess what... you have a fully functioning 12V driven HV jump starter...

NEVER EVER EVER EVER NEVER EVER EVER RUN THE CHARGER FOR MORE THAN 2-4 HOURS. NEVER USE IT WHEN IT'S NOT NEEDED, AND ALWAYS LET THE VEHICLE CHARGE ITSELF AT IDLE UNTIL IT SHUTS ITSELF OFF BEFORE DRIVING.

Minimum recommended charge time is one hour.

 

Hi Steve
Thank you for the clarification on the power supplies.
I'm going by the very first post that you began this thread with. https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f...ry-jump-31056/
In the post you have two photos of the box where it shows the positive and negative contact points. I included your picture because I realized you post extensively and probably don't remember a 3 year old post.

I wanted to confirm in order to leave in a permanent charging system where I wouldn't have to remove the battery again (I almost threw out my back the first time haha), all I need to do is connect leads to these +/- terminals in your photo?

I also wanted to thank you for your idea of housing the entire charging system internally. As long as I have the battery in pieces, I might as well rebuild it correctly. Thank you again for helping me out so quickly.

 

That's exactly why I asked you... 3 year old post and such...

The method I currently use with the XT-60 connector is permanent. It allows for future use by simply pluggin it in an running it.

If you lifted that bastid out completely on your own, I salute you and your He-Man-ness. If you wrangled it out via lifting, sliding, etc., then maybe I'm more manly than I think.

To clarify the DC output "wiring diagram":

(Relay(-))(-)-------LPC100-350------(+)(-)-----APC35-350---(diode (|))---(+)(Relay(+))

The "(|)" is the diode striped end.

Note that I have never done the internal installation option myself. It's just an idea that popped into my head while I was finishing up the last one (I've done a couple this month). I think it's very feasible, and you wouldn't need xt-60 connectors... just a little extra wire. I'm thinking - just drill a hole large enough to clear the power supply wire, hot glue it on both sides and then attach it to the power supply internally. I'm likely to do this for future builds because it's likely faster and avoids all soldering.

The biggest issue I see is with ensuring you route and secure the charge wire effectively, so it doesn't interfere with air flow. I figure zip-tie-ing it to the posts the Torx bolts screw into would suffice. Just check for pinch and clearance with the cover and cut channels where needed to pass the charge wire. I don't have a complete handle on the cooling dynamics in the pack.

Lastly, the external AC power cord would need to be secured in a manner that is convenient and protective, but allows quick access when needed.

 

Hi Steve, I took out and disassembled the battery last night. The removal wasn't manly. It was 30min of cursing and shuffling until I got it out far enough to carry it 6ft (cursing) to a work bench.
My new problem is that I assumed I could find the LED drivers here in local stores. Everyone laughed at me. I checked online and the top three providers have one or the other but not both. I may have found a work around. Can you tell me your opinion please?
Its called an HLG-120H-C350A
here are the specs page.

Will this work? Its in the voltage range with the 350mA charging rate you specified? Other than it topping out at 430V and running the risk of over charging I think it's ok?

 

Okay. I could probably pull that off too assuming I invented some new profanity.

Yeah. Online only. I must have bought the last APC-35-350 from Mouser last week.

I think it will work. Please read the data sheet first. It's adjustable, so make sure you have the means to hard wire it to max current output. Based on my interpretation, an open circuit on the dimmer leads will ensure max output.

Peak voltage isn't an issue. This is a misconception by many. You could put a 0.35 amp, 10,000V capable power supply on it, and it wouldn't do anything (sorta). V = I * R. Voltage changes based on current and resistance. There would be a mega spark when you attached to the 10kV supply, but one of two things would happen next...

1) the power supply would start flowing the 0.35A and immediately pull it's own voltage down to meet the battery.
2) Power supply would shut down.

A battery's voltage will rise in response to a charge based on the current flow and it's own internal resistance (whole pack is between 1 and 2Ω). Once a current is applied, it will rise over time according to its state of charge. It will never go higher than it's 100% SoC voltage with a given current applied, regardless of the PSU's peak voltage.

 

Hi Steve, yep, I think Mouser told me they wont restock until January. Also, thank you, I didn't know about the voltage. I was concerned with a potential overcharge. Here's the datasheet for this LED driver. https://www.meanwellusa.com/productPdf.aspx?i=310#1 If I'm reading it correctly, the power source is AC, eliminating the need for an inverter. This setup would be easier and cheaper than two drivers and an inverter for a permanent recharge option.
Am I correct?

Would this be the correct wiring schematic?

(Relay(-) .................................................. .........................AC Power supply Neutral
.........(-)----------------------HLG-120H-C350A--------------------N

.........(+)---((I)diode)-------HLG-120H-C350A--------------------H
(Relay(+) .................................................. ........................AC Power supply Hot
.................................................. ......................................AC Power supply Ground

 

The mention of the inverter was purely for the purpose of being able to power the HV "jump starter" with the 12V battery in an analogous albeit much slower way than the 05-08 system. It's merely an addition to the base design to enable 12V powered operation.

Yes, AC powered. Page 4 shows the base connections. Left side: L/N/G AC in; right side: Dimmer circuit (you can ignore) and DC out on the right side.

I believe your diagram is correct, although the ground is part of the wiring of the LED PSU.

Diode orientation is correct.

 

Steve thank you so much for taking the time to answer my questions. I ordered the part and I'll let you know next week if I am successful.

 

Hi Steve the setup worked. I charged my battery and it holds the charge. I've also left in place cable to the terminals which I can use to in the future to recharge the battery.
I have a new/old problem. The vehicle doesn't start. I have a brand new 12v in the front and the HV battery is actually overcharged to 340v. But the vehicle doesn't kick on. I'm pulling the P1A10 and P1A14 codes which I have repeatedly cleared with a scanner but they keep coming back. My dash also reads the red warning triangle the red vehicle with lock icon and a message to pull over. Do you know what I'm doing wrong?