HV Battery Jump
#42
Re: HV Battery Jump
I fashion a little harness with a female XT60 connector that I snake out the back side of the battery. You will have to cut a notch in the battery seal to get the wire out and maintain a good seal. The charger has the male output. 28awg copper is fine - short wire runs and low current.
Make sure you put diodes on the charger output leads. Only one is sufficient, but I like the overkill of 2. Appropriate fusing for safety is recommended, but I don't.
Make sure you put diodes on the charger output leads. Only one is sufficient, but I like the overkill of 2. Appropriate fusing for safety is recommended, but I don't.
#43
Re: HV Battery Jump
S Keith, so you put a pigtail on the battery with a female connector. The pigtail exits from the back of the battery pack so hopefully nobody will ever see or touch it. The charger has the male connector. I like the idea of 2 diodes but I'd also add fuseson the HV side. Thanks for the info.
#44
Re: HV Battery Jump
Yep. It just sticks out a few inches. I forgot to mention that I 3D print a little plastic cover to go over it. Even without the cover, it's a challenge to inadvertently contact both of the female pins. The plug normally sits in the open space to the right of the battery concealed by the right side trim.
I print up instructions and attach them to the charger:
Remove safety plug completely
Remove harness cover
Attach charger to harness
Plug charger in to 110VAC
install safety plug
charge for 2 hours
remove safety plug
Unplug charger power
Unplug charger from harness
Install harness cover
Install safety plug
Unplug charger from harness
I print up instructions and attach them to the charger:
Remove safety plug completely
Remove harness cover
Attach charger to harness
Plug charger in to 110VAC
install safety plug
charge for 2 hours
remove safety plug
Unplug charger power
Unplug charger from harness
Install harness cover
Install safety plug
Unplug charger from harness
#45
Re: HV Battery Jump
S Keith, I'm sorry there was such a long delay in responding to your extremely helpful post on my options. I had to make sure there would be a vehicle available for me to use and there were complications with that. So, yes, I was worried about problems with #1 and #2 so I am really glad to know option #3 is possible. Now, how can I get the details?
Thank you so much.
Thank you so much.
#46
Re: HV Battery Jump
S Keith, I'm sorry there was such a long delay in responding to your extremely helpful post on my options. I had to make sure there would be a vehicle available for me to use and there were complications with that. So, yes, I was worried about problems with #1 and #2 so I am really glad to know option #3 is possible. Now, how can I get the details?
Thank you so much.
Thank you so much.
#47
Re: HV Battery Jump
Regardless of what your 2008-2009 Owner's manual says, based on my research it appears that for MY 2008+, the HV Battery jump start system was removed. One can find online references where Ford claims it was never needed. Bullsh1t.
LPC-150-350 power supply will charge 350mA. 3-4 hours should be enough to get your pack to a state that is safe to start the ICE. For a battery that is very low, I wouldn't be concerned about as much as 12 hours of charging provided you're checking it for warmth every 30 minutes or so after the 8 hour mark. This is extremely conservative. I put in quite a bit more than that at higher currents and never felt any heat at all. To protect the power supply from the battery, you should install 2X 1N4005G diodes in the output lines. The positive lead should have the diode stripe on the battery side of the connection, and the negative lad should have the diode strip on the power supply side of the connection.
When finished charging, remove the safety plug and fully reconnect the main relay and ECU. The two 8mm bolts connecting to the main plug should be 48 in-lb. The 10mm orange terminal bolts need to be a little tighter. I just used 48 in-lb and went a little further.
You can start it with the cover off provided all electrical connections are tight.
LPC-150-350 power supply will charge 350mA. 3-4 hours should be enough to get your pack to a state that is safe to start the ICE. For a battery that is very low, I wouldn't be concerned about as much as 12 hours of charging provided you're checking it for warmth every 30 minutes or so after the 8 hour mark. This is extremely conservative. I put in quite a bit more than that at higher currents and never felt any heat at all. To protect the power supply from the battery, you should install 2X 1N4005G diodes in the output lines. The positive lead should have the diode stripe on the battery side of the connection, and the negative lad should have the diode strip on the power supply side of the connection.
When finished charging, remove the safety plug and fully reconnect the main relay and ECU. The two 8mm bolts connecting to the main plug should be 48 in-lb. The 10mm orange terminal bolts need to be a little tighter. I just used 48 in-lb and went a little further.
You can start it with the cover off provided all electrical connections are tight.
Here's a link to the Mouser product page for 1N4005G diodes. Can you please point me to the correct ones?
Diode product page
Also, can I please pay you to print another one of those covers you indicated you made on a 3D printer?
Thank you.
#48
Re: HV Battery Jump
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...hxLYwicoc0E%3D
Probably. I need to print some. I should just upload it to Thingiverse.
LOL... looks like I should have checked there first...
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q...25dc5bc3c16396
Probably. I need to print some. I should just upload it to Thingiverse.
LOL... looks like I should have checked there first...
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q...25dc5bc3c16396
#49
Re: HV Battery Jump
Thanks S Keith for sharing all the info on charging the HV Battery. I set mine up and charged for almost 5 hrs, put everything back together and my 2009 FEH fired right up. Fifty dollars worth of parts and a few hours of labor, what a great investment!