Do not install a diode/diodes on the AC side. That will render the power supply unusable.

A surge protector is not a substitute for a fuse.

Fuses are selected based on the wiring they're protecting. I don't know the gauge off the top of my head, but the maximum input on the unit is 1.6A @ 115V Fuses should be 1.25X the maximum continuous current to prevent nuisance blows. 1.25 * 1.6A = 2.0A

 

What type of fuse and how did you wire it in to the AC side? I cut a PC power cable for the AC to out of the battery. I'm still planning to use your suggestion to recondition the battery to 100% and I could add an AC fuse when I took the cover off for doing that.

Also, any tips on how to know when the battery is at 100% would be helpful.

Thanks in advance.

 

Fuse holder in line with the "L" wire on the power supply.

Charging NiMH @ 0.1C for 1.6X rated capacity guarantees 100% SoC of all cells, thus:

5500mAh * 1.6 / 350mA = 25 hours

Other indications of full:

Cooling air exiting the battery is > 100°F.
Voltage DROPS from its peak by about 0.25V - this requires that you monitor/log the voltage to identify the peak.

Given that you won't be starting from 0%, you can likely charge for less, but 25 hours guarantees it.

 

Hi everybody, another user signing up to say thank you to S Keith and all other contributors for the excellent research on this topic!

My parts are in the mail, so I’ll be attempting this soon. I have just one question: are the vestigial wires dead when the safety plug is removed? I know the removal of the plug separates the upper and lower battery cells, but does it also completely cut voltage to those wires?

I could measure with a meter when I open it up but I figured I’d ask, since I also wanted to thank everybody.

 

I honestly can't remember. It should break the circuit when removed, but I would assume it's sparky until you confirm otherwise.

 

Yes it kills those wires, I just did the install myself a few weeks ago, and I used those to voltage test the batteries. When the safety plug is removed the wires are not live. When its plugged in you can grab voltage off them just like terminals.

 

Awesome, thanks guys!

 

Thanks! Too old to remember...

will revise that bit in the first post.

 

One last sanity check: can I run the HLG-120H-C350A with 110v AC or do I need 220v?

 

110 volts is fine.

From the specifications page:

Input Voltage 90~305Vac