HV Battery Jump
#21
Re: HV Battery Jump
I get the same number. The DVM is more along the lines of what I would expect. Did you notice it widening as you approached 44%?
I would repeat with the rear defroster, headlights and HVAC blower running (A/C off). 3.6A is pretty low. I like to see above 10A when possible, but that's pretty hard to get with the high voltage of the FEH.
Did you record it?
I would repeat with the rear defroster, headlights and HVAC blower running (A/C off). 3.6A is pretty low. I like to see above 10A when possible, but that's pretty hard to get with the high voltage of the FEH.
Did you record it?
#22
Re: HV Battery Jump
I get the same number. The DVM is more along the lines of what I would expect. Did you notice it widening as you approached 44%?
I would repeat with the rear defroster, headlights and HVAC blower running (A/C off). 3.6A is pretty low. I like to see above 10A when possible, but that's pretty hard to get with the high voltage of the FEH.
Did you record it?
I would repeat with the rear defroster, headlights and HVAC blower running (A/C off). 3.6A is pretty low. I like to see above 10A when possible, but that's pretty hard to get with the high voltage of the FEH.
Did you record it?
Puzzling result compared to yesterday.
One thing I did notice from the recording. When restart occurred at SoC = 40%, the HV_AMP discharge increased to around 8A, with the ICE now running and the SoC continued to fall to 36% where I stopped the recording. This was still under my maximum load. I thought SoC would climb above 40% when the ICE started but it did not. Why would HV_AMP increase when the ICE starts?
Last edited by econoline; 05-06-2019 at 05:03 PM.
#23
Re: HV Battery Jump
When you're extrapolating a health value using only roughly 10% of the total range, one can't expect a lot of consistency from run to run. Additionally, temperature and other factors play a role.
If you just went out to the car after sitting overnight and ran the test immediately after the ICE stopped, you would get different results than you would after a 10 minute drive.
HV_AMP increased because the ICE has a new 12V load - ignition coils. Spark comes from somewhere. 3.2A seems a little on the high side, but I routinely see 2-3A at lower voltages on hybrids with smaller batteries.
I don't know the specific logic, but it may have two triggers - 1) start ICE below X SoC under Y conditions and 2) force charge battery at Z% SoC. They may not occur concurrently.
If you just went out to the car after sitting overnight and ran the test immediately after the ICE stopped, you would get different results than you would after a 10 minute drive.
HV_AMP increased because the ICE has a new 12V load - ignition coils. Spark comes from somewhere. 3.2A seems a little on the high side, but I routinely see 2-3A at lower voltages on hybrids with smaller batteries.
I don't know the specific logic, but it may have two triggers - 1) start ICE below X SoC under Y conditions and 2) force charge battery at Z% SoC. They may not occur concurrently.
#24
Re: HV Battery Jump
Wouldn't this work fine for charging?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HOLD-UP-ONE...4AAOSw3ydVjBC3
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HOLD-UP-ONE...4AAOSw3ydVjBC3
#25
Re: HV Battery Jump
340VDC is too low to fully charge, but it could certainly provide the same function as the jump starter.
EDIT: I can't find a manual on it, so I have to change my answer. IF this functions as both a constant current and constant voltage power supply, yes. However, if it can't put out close to 340V, it may shut off or pulse and be very ineffective.
Some power supplies, like LED power supplies have a working voltage range, but put out a constant current - to light a LEDs. The voltage range is for the min and max numbers of bulbs it can power. Constant voltage supplies only work within a narrow voltage range but vary the current delivered based on the load up to the max rated current.
Given that this has a singular voltage output listed, I suspect it would NOT work as a jump starter.
EDIT: I can't find a manual on it, so I have to change my answer. IF this functions as both a constant current and constant voltage power supply, yes. However, if it can't put out close to 340V, it may shut off or pulse and be very ineffective.
Some power supplies, like LED power supplies have a working voltage range, but put out a constant current - to light a LEDs. The voltage range is for the min and max numbers of bulbs it can power. Constant voltage supplies only work within a narrow voltage range but vary the current delivered based on the load up to the max rated current.
Given that this has a singular voltage output listed, I suspect it would NOT work as a jump starter.
Last edited by S Keith; 10-04-2019 at 06:17 PM.
#27
Re: HV Battery Jump
Voltage, V = Current, I * Resistance, R; V = I * R
What do you charge a 12V to? 12V? No. You charge a 12V battery to 14.4-14.8V depending on the type. When you remove the charging current at full charge, the voltage immediately starts dropping due to the removal of the charge current. It eventually settles to 12.6-12.9 after 24 hours depending on type.
Batteries don't have one voltage. They have a range of working voltage. Any listed voltage for a battery is the NOMINAL voltage. This number is used for calculations and represents an "average" voltage.
The FEH battery is 300V - it's nominal voltage. Any other referenced number goes against the standard by which batteries are rated. A NiMH cell is 1.2V nominal. 250 cells is 300V. It will be both well above and well below that value in operation, but the only time it will ever be 300V at rest is when it's fully discharged. When you charge it, the voltage increases according to V = I * R as the battery has a small internal resistance... probably about 0.25Ω. If you push on it with a charger, it will increase. If you pull on it with a load, it will decrease. In addition to the instantaneous voltage change from charge/discharge, voltage also varies with state of charge. As the battery fills, its voltage increases. As it empties, its voltage decreases.
At full charge under a low current (0.5A), the FEH battery will be full at between 353-358V (approximately).
A FEH battery needing a jump start will be at less then 300V and likely closer to 250V. The power supply likely can't operate at either of those voltages by design. Like when you put a 12V charger on a grossly discharged battery, most won't deliver their rated 2, 4, 6, 10A (whatever) current and will typically pulse small amounts of current as the supply tries to push current at the bottom of its operating range (maybe around 7V) and shuts down when it can't. These pulses do impart small amounts of charge and can SLOWLY bring the battery up to the working voltage range where the charger can push its max current.
What do you charge a 12V to? 12V? No. You charge a 12V battery to 14.4-14.8V depending on the type. When you remove the charging current at full charge, the voltage immediately starts dropping due to the removal of the charge current. It eventually settles to 12.6-12.9 after 24 hours depending on type.
Batteries don't have one voltage. They have a range of working voltage. Any listed voltage for a battery is the NOMINAL voltage. This number is used for calculations and represents an "average" voltage.
The FEH battery is 300V - it's nominal voltage. Any other referenced number goes against the standard by which batteries are rated. A NiMH cell is 1.2V nominal. 250 cells is 300V. It will be both well above and well below that value in operation, but the only time it will ever be 300V at rest is when it's fully discharged. When you charge it, the voltage increases according to V = I * R as the battery has a small internal resistance... probably about 0.25Ω. If you push on it with a charger, it will increase. If you pull on it with a load, it will decrease. In addition to the instantaneous voltage change from charge/discharge, voltage also varies with state of charge. As the battery fills, its voltage increases. As it empties, its voltage decreases.
At full charge under a low current (0.5A), the FEH battery will be full at between 353-358V (approximately).
A FEH battery needing a jump start will be at less then 300V and likely closer to 250V. The power supply likely can't operate at either of those voltages by design. Like when you put a 12V charger on a grossly discharged battery, most won't deliver their rated 2, 4, 6, 10A (whatever) current and will typically pulse small amounts of current as the supply tries to push current at the bottom of its operating range (maybe around 7V) and shuts down when it can't. These pulses do impart small amounts of charge and can SLOWLY bring the battery up to the working voltage range where the charger can push its max current.
#28
Re: HV Battery Jump
Help please! My 2009 Merc Mariner HV Battery is dead. Due to circumstances beyond my control it was sitting too long. The 12V battery was unchargeable so I got a new one but it still wouldn't start. Dealer diagnostics found nothing else wrong except the HV battery had discharged to 260V. They would charge $2000 to attempt to recharge with no guarantee. They said DTCs were P0A7D (HV battery SOC low), P1A07 (inverter HV Performance), and P1A10 (HV battery disabled).
I see your previous postings about this but I'm a complete novice with no equipment. Can anybody help me? I'm in Albuquerque. Is there anyone in the area who knows how to do this? If I can't figure it out I may have to find a used or reconditioned battery somewhere and hope it works. It is such a nice vehicle with low miles and in very good condition otherwise. I need help. Thanks.
I see your previous postings about this but I'm a complete novice with no equipment. Can anybody help me? I'm in Albuquerque. Is there anyone in the area who knows how to do this? If I can't figure it out I may have to find a used or reconditioned battery somewhere and hope it works. It is such a nice vehicle with low miles and in very good condition otherwise. I need help. Thanks.
#29
Re: HV Battery Jump
Patricia,
You should ask the dealership why a less than one hour procedure with a Ford Charger built for this application costs $2000.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f1b0u5d7fm...Stall.mp4?dl=0
Process starts at 3:16
You should ask the dealership why a less than one hour procedure with a Ford Charger built for this application costs $2000.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f1b0u5d7fm...Stall.mp4?dl=0
Process starts at 3:16