I completed all 9 steps but without success. I know what you mean abut the ignition cylinder failing on these and I have already replaced this item previous to this. The battery is measuring 12.25V so I will charge it up this evening to 12.5V and try to repeat the 9 steps.

 

Once it's charged, leave the charger connected while you re-try the procedure.

 

OK...will do.

 

Thanks for the ideas guys...charged the battery to a steady state of 12.6V and left the charger attached while attempting the same 9 step key procedure, still did not start. I guess I am open to any other ideas you may have? Thanks again.

 

Time to get Forscan. Again, it's highly unlikely the battery needs to be charged unless something very unique has happened. Forscan will tell you if there are any error codes, and it will allow you to LOOK at the hybrid battery parameters, including the actual voltage, and see if there are any issues.

 

Sounds good...I have ordered the interface cable from Amazon and will download the software tomorrow, are there any specific parameters I need to be looking at or is there an older post that already has the information I should be looking for?

Thanks,

Craig

 

When you connect to the vehicle, it will query all computers and generate a list of any DTC. From there we can look at additional data as needed.

 

You are the man! I will get some data for you tomorrow and hopefully a better idea of what is going on. Thank you again!

 

OK, just a quick update. I ordered my OBD interface cable from Amazon and downloaded the free version of Forscan. It appears I am dead in the water until someone verifies my account on Forscan and issues me a license key, does that sound right? Everything else is good to go so it appears I am in a holding pattern until I get my account verified and get a code issued?

 

@S Keith Thank you so much for this post. I built (with my brother's electrical help) the connector, charged it for four hours and it started right up. Ran for about 15-20 minutes before the engine shut off. Checked Forscan, 344V.




I posted a few pics for those deciding to add a harness. I decided to drill a small hole (5/16") through in the back right corner (passenger side) and will add silicone to both sides to seal it off. I plan to zip tie the harness to the subwoofer wire bundle to prevent any strain on it. I'm also going to add a small clip on the backside of the tire jack panel to hold the end of the harness.

I made a few mistakes during reassembly, this will hopefully prevent this from happening to those that do this in the future:

1. Terminals for battery go over the plastic top cover, not underneath (see pic)
2. Add the negative terminal block back to the relay before you reinstall it (two times). You can see the positive and negative metal connections on the left side of the relay in the pic.
3. The long 10mm bolt goes over the small piece of trim over the HV relay - you may need to pull slightly to the right on the relay to get the bolt to line up
4. Buy 2-3 T30 security bits, one of mine fell under the battery when removing the left side screw. Grainger was the cheapest I found, $1.80 each.
5. Don't forget your power cord and 2A fuses from Home Depot. I bought my fuse holder from Mouser
6. Recommend getting a few ziplock bags and labeling each screw for the relay and computer, it (would have) made my reassembly easier. I didn't separate these screws and bolts enough.

I will reinstall the top on the battery and the trim tomorrow. Thanks again to everyone that posted, I hope I've added some good information to this thread.


Terminals go on top for the HV Relay. I must have tried this 4 times before figuring it out.


I forgot to add the connecting block in the foreground. This was my third install of the relay.


Used a 5/16 inch drill bit, leaves a little room for filling with silicone. Don't forget to thread the wires through first and then crimp your ring terminals onto the wire once the wires are inside the battery housing.


Here's the relay connection. Put the female on the battery side, have a 2A fuse in the middle and the 2 diodes are each covered individually with shrink wrap tubes, and secured together underneath the green shrinkwrap tube. Purple shrinkwrap covers the sodler from the 12 Ga fuse wire to the 18 Ga lead wires.

Here's my charger, expertly assembled by my big brother, a soldering and electronics guru. Power cord is from Home Depot