HV Battery Jump
 

Updated info towards bottom. Please see the very bottom for a 12/30/2022 update for an easier way to connect.

Regardless of what your 2008-2009 Owner's manual says, based on my research it appears that for MY 2008+, the HV Battery jump start system was removed. One can find online references where Ford claims it was never needed. Bullsh1t.

Please check this thread:

https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f...47/#post261444

I have included pictures showing a large piece of electronics missing from newer packs.

Here is what the old pack (05-08) looks like (the jump starter is circled):

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...a80534a03c.jpg

Here's the 2009+ (space for former jump starter circled):
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...c620af2e7a.jpg

You can conduct your own grid charging with a little elbow grease.

For the love of all that is holy, make sure the safety plug is completely out. Even in the unlocked position, it is still making the connection.

The cover can be removed in-car with a little trickery. There are 2X Torx bolts on each side of the cover (two difference sizes, non-security) that are essentially inaccessible and 2X 10mm bolts on the front. If you lift one side of the pack and rotate it about 15-20° in the compartment, you can access the two side bolts. These should be done first. Then remove the remaining T30 (I think) Torx security bolts.

From that point, one can access some live terminals with a little effort. Refer to this image for component location:
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...50abe091d7.jpg

You can also check the 26 sticks at the top of the pack by probing through the shrink wrap. Anything less than 4.8V between the ends is completely dead. They should be over 5V, and they should all be very nearly the same - likely less than 0.02V deviation.

Before you get started, take your own pictures!

You will need to clip one or more zip ties.

Remove ECU on the passenger side. Some connectors have their clips on the top, remove these first. Remove the Philips/8mm screws securing it. Once loose, disconnect all remaining connectors and remove it completely.

Remove the main relay. This entails a couple of 10mm bolts mounting it into the case, a single 10mm bolt to remove a small plastic cover, 2 8mm bolts connecting the relay to the main plug and the two 10mm bolts at the orange blocks. Note that these are NOT hot. They are insulated from the live terminals by a ceramic insert. In order to get enough clearance, I also removed what looks to be a large ceramic resistor from the back of the relay attached with a T30 Torx screw. The Relay can then slide straight back. You will need to push wires and bundles down and out of the way and tilt the rear carefully upwards to make it slide smoothly.

Flip the relay upside down and remove the two T30 Torx screws:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tq0lge2kl5...2549.jpg?raw=1

Then take off the top cover (the bottom cover is loose but retained by wires). The two points at which you can make your connections are here (red is +, black is -):

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xaet8f40a7...2229.jpg?raw=1

You then need to re-install it by sliding the forks back into the orange terminals and CAREFULLY tightening only the two 10mm bolts. You only need them finger tight, i.e., "snug".

Now, once the safety plug is in, you will get full pack voltage at those two locations.

LPC-150-350 (240VAC input only!) power supply will charge 350mA. 3-4 hours should be enough to get your pack to a state that is safe to start the ICE. For a battery that is very low, I wouldn't be concerned about as much as 12 hours of charging provided you're checking it for warmth every 30 minutes or so after the 8 hour mark. This is extremely conservative. I put in quite a bit more than that at higher currents and never felt any heat at all. To protect the power supply from the battery, you should install 2X 1N4005G diodes in the output lines. The positive lead should have the diode stripe on the battery side of the connection, and the negative lad should have the diode strip on the power supply side of the connection.

When finished charging, remove the safety plug and fully reconnect the main relay and ECU. The two 8mm bolts connecting to the main plug should be 48 in-lb. The 10mm orange terminal bolts need to be a little tighter. I just used 48 in-lb and went a little further.

You can start it with the cover off provided all electrical connections are tight.

---------------------------------

updated:

Tools:
Philips screw driver
Torx security bits
Metric Hex tools for Allen heads
Metric socket set
Torque wrench
Drill/bits
See https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f...tml#post270783 for tools to enable removal of side torx bolts to enable in-place cover removal
Channel locks - to crudely remove the large side bolts that secure the lifting straps.

Materials:
LED Power supply (LPC-100-350 + APC-35-350 OR HLG-120H-C350A or B, all available from Mouser.com)
Diode (D1NK60-5070 or better)
Computer power cord or extension cord for sacrifice (to power LED supplies)
28ga or thicker wire for output.
Simple cheap crimp terminals
Butt splice connectors
heat shrink
Velcro and/or hot glue
Wire nuts

Outline:
Build charger (wire nuts and power cords)
Remove safety plug
Remove battery (https://www.dropbox.com/s/85demexnlo...draft.pdf?dl=0) (NOTE THAT REMOVAL IS NOT NECESSARILY REQUIRED, SEE TOOLS ABOVE)
Remove cover (takes torx security bits torx security bits )
Remove computer (8mm socket or Phillips screw driver)
Remove relay/fuse (Torx, 8 and 10mm sockets)
Remove relay cover
Attach power supply leads to relay
Take high voltage precautions, energize power supply and check for voltage at the relay (confirming power supply is working)
Install relay cover
Install relay
Install computer
install cover
install battery
install safety plug
charge for 4 hours. Shorter charges can work if the battery is freshly discharge, but 1 hour minimum. More is recommended.
start and let car idle until it auto-stops or for 20 minutes (whichever happens first).
Done - car is fixed

If you want to attempt to "recondition" the battery, the most effective thing is to charge it to true 100% SoC:

This will take 24 hours of charging
It must be done with the cover off
You must use a box fan laying on top of the cells blowing down into them or an equivalent method of cooling
The last four hours should be used to monitor the cell temps. Once they start heating, you will feel it in the side gaps that allow one's fingers to nearly reach to the bottom of the pack.
Once heat is detected, terminate charging.
Allow it to continue to cool until heat is not longer detected.

Do not drive the vehicle until after the engine has shut off after initial run. Attempt to drive the vehicle solely on EV power without using engine/regen braking until it refuses (pop it into "N" if you need to use brakes). Then drive normally. Being at 100% SoC, it's important to bleed the battery down into the working range while taking care not to over charge it in the vehicle. The BCM is smart enough to take care of this on its own, but a little help on your part doesn't hurt as there is a delay in sensing and reaction.

Lastly, once the battery has been jump started, I vigorously recommend the Forscan balancing function. It will force charge the battery at idle to a much higher state of charge and then bleed it back down to the working range. It can take 10-30 minutes in my experience. For batteries that may be problematic, I recommend this on a routine basis for maintenance (couple times a year, or at least once before your hottest season and once after). If you elected to manually charge the battery to full, this is not necessary except for periodic maintenance.

A summary of one user's process:

https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f...tml#post270784

Note: 05-08 MAY require this treatment if their batteries are severely discharged. It's possible for the NiMH chemistry to go dormant. This causes HV voltage to spike when the jump starter begins charging. If you note that the jump button goes solid and then turns to slow flash after 30-60 seconds, then there's been a jump fault. If the jump button goes from solid to fast flashing, then it's completed normally, and you may attempt start.

Having a significant number of hybrids - more than I can realistically drive enough, the '05 FEH entered a long period of neglect. There are other issues, so that may have been at play. Initial voltage was 180. jump starts would fault after 30-60 seconds. Voltage would spike at 324V by the time I could check it, but it would bleed down rapidly. Start attempts would push it back down to 180V.

The good news is that the full process isn't required. One can simply:
Put a 10A charger on the 12V.
Fully charge the 12V.
Leave 10A charger on the 12V
Remove the safety plug
Remove the battery cover.
Remove the cover over the bolts connecting the relay to the main terminal.
Attach charge leads to the terminal bolts, (-) on passenger side.
Replace safety plug.
Hit jump start, wait for flash.
Ignition on (do not start).
Clear codes with Forscan
Cycle ignition when instructed to do so.
Energize charger.

Since the car will see a 300V+ at the battery, it will energize the relay and connect the battery to the car once ignition is on. As long as the 12V can power the ignition, one should get a net charge. One can use Forscan to monitor the progress.

Recommend 1-2 hours. Once the chemistry has been reactivated with input, the jump starter should function normally.

EDIT: If you plan to leave a harness installed for future charging, how you route the wires may induce a P0AA7 code. Please see this post for a recommended routing path:

https://electricvehicleforums.com/fo...tml#post275151

12/30/2022 UPDATE:

There's an easier way to connect to the main terminals of the battery. This was brought to me by a customer through his own research of other resources. It's also possible this has been mentioned on this site, and I've simply forgotten.

With certainty, on the 2009 and 2010 (probably on 2011 and 2012), there are "vestigial" jump start connectors that can be used to connect your charger.

Inside this:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...ef06688a14.jpg

are these connectors:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...a195b1d1c1.jpg
There is only 1 wire in these 12-16P connectors (can't remember how many pins), and one is the main (-), black, and the other is the main (+), gray. They are always hot if the safety plug is installed across the contacts in the RUN or UNLOCK position. The only way to de-energize them is to remove the safety plug from the contacts. They are the only wire in the two orange shrouded wires that route towards the front of the pack on this side.

You can install your entire "jump starter" in this location. Did this on Tuesday with a 1000V/1A diode on the (+) and a 2A fuse on the AC input and ran the short AC cord out of the case near the lifting strap secured with a grommet, and ran it forward to the rear seat. Simply plug in to an extension cord, and you're charging.

7/19/2023 update: NOTE: "vestigial" connection points are 0V when safety plug is removed. Even so, exercise caution. Never assume ~300VDC is safe to touch without verifying.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

I'm wanting to charge my 09 FEH hv battery, but confused on something. The LPC-150-350 states 200-240ac input and has only two leads. So I need a AC programmable power supply to use this or you using just 110v to power this?

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

For 110V use LPC-100-350 and APC-35-350 with outputs wired in series.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

What current input would you recommend if one had a capable charger and for how long? Without cooling the hv battery, but monitored of course.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Assuming:
1) HV battery is at least 80% new capacity
2) HV battery is at 0% SoC.

Highest current possible up to 3000mAh input. Above 3000mAh input, provide some means of cooling at any current. If you can monitor it, you can cool it.

If SoC is unknown, charge at 0.5A max with cooling.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Easy way to find it's SoC with hv battery out of the car already? I would assume that would entail probing a stick to figure this out.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Not really. NiMH resting voltage is completely unusable as an SoC estimation UNLESS it's less than 1.2V/cell. Then you know it's dead, so < 300V on a FEH is at 0% SoC.

If your battery starts the car, then it probably doesn't need charging.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Thank you very much.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

So how do you determine the "health" of an old battery (say 10+ years ) that outwardly is not showing any signs of problems:

• No error codes from vehicle
• Battery maintains voltage when parked unused for weeks
• Battery starts ICE quickly and easily

Thanks

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

I'm interested in knowing this too.
Is there a definitive test for HV battery health that can be performed without opening the battery?

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Forscan. When the ICE is stopped, record a "discharge" of the HV battery using electrical accessories (blower, headlights, rear window defroster, in "R" with parking brake set and foot off brake) monitoring SoC, current and the module deltaV. You will be able to determine X mAh extracted over Y SoC and then can extrapolate the total battery capacity, e.g.,

650mAh extracted between 55% and 40% (or 55-40 = 15%)

650mAh/0.15 = 4333mAh = 4333/5500 = 79% SoH

Abrupt drops in SoC under a constant current load and/or divergence of the deltaV number (max difference between all voltage blocks) indicate an imbalanced or ailing battery.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Thanks, I can certainly try that.

Why "in "R" with parking brake set and foot off brake" ?

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Pull more current. With the foot on the brake, creep is disabled at the motor, i.e., it senses the pedal is pressed, so it doesn't even try. Parking brake only means it will still attempt to creep.

More current will yield more conservative results. Very low current draw may give optimistic results.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Thanks,

How much will the actual battery temperature at the time of this load test effect the mAh/SOC ratio?

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Can't say for certain, but you're picking fly turds out of pepper at that point. Battery temperature between 60 and 90°F should produce meaningful results.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

I haven't gotten to Forscan yet but I did get some data with the Scangauge over the past couple of weeks.

MDV (module deltaV) is stable at 0.01 - 0.02 under all driving conditions, EV mode, charging, regen, etc. I double checked that I'm using the correct X-code.

I had an opportunity today on a flat, no-traffic road to run in EV mode at 20mph from SoC of 50% down to 40% with an odometer reading of 0.4 miles. So best case it lost 10% SoC in 0.49 miles. That's about half the distance I should have gone if a healthy battery can go 1.3 miles on 53% to 40% SoC.

So the driving distance test seems to indicate a failing battery (capacity reduced by 50%) but the MDV confuses me. Seems unlikely that all modules would age together at the same rate, so why am I not seeing more of a delta in the module voltages?

As always, appreciate your comments.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

MDV of .01-.02 is pretty unlikely particularly under any kind of load. I question the accuracy.

0.4 mile with 10% SoC loss sounds pretty good to me. Where are you getting the 1.3mi/13% ?

Did you record current over that 0.4mi drive?

MDV increase is an indication of imbalance, and one can get substantial variation in cells before it shows up in MDV especially when you're talking about cells that operation over a very narrow SoC range with a voltage curve that's relatively flat. Factor in that MDV is checking 10 cells (I think) at a time, you're seeing variation between groups of 10 cells, so a single cell is going to be masked by the others in the string.

The 250 cells have been subjected to the same conditions for X miles over Y years. Wouldn't they age together at the same or at least similar rates?

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Thanks Steve,

The MDV is the standard X-code from the Scangauge database. Maybe Forscan will give a different number, and I will do that soon.

The 1.3mi/13% EV range has been reported multiple times in the past, there's a couple of posts below.

I probably misspoke about battery pack aging. I agree the cells should age at similar rates. I'll report back when I get a capacity check from Forscan as you suggested.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

I'm not sure that I buy this as a valid test. There are too many variables, and temperature will play a very significant role.

A better test would be to try to hold a constant CURRENT in EV mode or during a controlled discharge. The current multiplied by the time will give you the capacity extracted. Then you can extrapolate the battery capacity.

0.4mi @ 20mph takes .02 hr
Let's say you averaged 20A over that time (if you can't log the data, you can record the display on video and make a fairly accurate estimate of the current).
That would be 20A * .02hr = 0.4Ah = 400mAh
If you extracted that over 10% SoC, then your battery capacity is 400mAh / 10% = 4000mAh, which is 4000/5500 = 72.7% of rated capacity.

Here's some battery test data:
https://avt.inl.gov/sites/default/fi...escape8237.pdf

That's where I got the 5500mAh, which is consistent with my understanding of the capacity of the Sanyo cells (also used in the HCH2).

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

I setup Forscan and collected some data for battery capacity.

Used your methodology except I had it in "L", parking brake set, no accessories, which gave me a relatively stable 3.6A of discharge (I hope TRAC_M_AMP was the correct parameter).
BTM = 79°F
DVM = 0.12 - 0.19v (mostly near 0.12v) This differs greatly from the Scangauge.
SoC 53% to 44% (when uncommanded restart occurred)
Elasped time = 5m:48s

By my math that's 70.3% battery capacity relative to the new battery of 5.5Ah. That seems pretty good for a 12 year old battery.
I'm still puzzled by why the regenerative braking system is so weak compared to a few years ago, that's my big complaint, but the battery condition would not seem to explain that.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

I get the same number. The DVM is more along the lines of what I would expect. Did you notice it widening as you approached 44%?

I would repeat with the rear defroster, headlights and HVAC blower running (A/C off). 3.6A is pretty low. I like to see above 10A when possible, but that's pretty hard to get with the high voltage of the FEH.

Did you record it?

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

I repeated the test today with a load of 4.8A which is the highest I can get with traction, lights and accessories on. Went SoC 49.5% to 40.0% in 6m:02s. That gives me 92% battery capacity. DVM did not widen from 0.19v even at 40% SoC.

Puzzling result compared to yesterday.

One thing I did notice from the recording. When restart occurred at SoC = 40%, the HV_AMP discharge increased to around 8A, with the ICE now running and the SoC continued to fall to 36% where I stopped the recording. This was still under my maximum load. I thought SoC would climb above 40% when the ICE started but it did not. Why would HV_AMP increase when the ICE starts?

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

When you're extrapolating a health value using only roughly 10% of the total range, one can't expect a lot of consistency from run to run. Additionally, temperature and other factors play a role.

If you just went out to the car after sitting overnight and ran the test immediately after the ICE stopped, you would get different results than you would after a 10 minute drive.

HV_AMP increased because the ICE has a new 12V load - ignition coils. Spark comes from somewhere. 3.2A seems a little on the high side, but I routinely see 2-3A at lower voltages on hybrids with smaller batteries.

I don't know the specific logic, but it may have two triggers - 1) start ICE below X SoC under Y conditions and 2) force charge battery at Z% SoC. They may not occur concurrently.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Wouldn't this work fine for charging?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HOLD-UP-ONE...4AAOSw3ydVjBC3

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

340VDC is too low to fully charge, but it could certainly provide the same function as the jump starter.

EDIT: I can't find a manual on it, so I have to change my answer. IF this functions as both a constant current and constant voltage power supply, yes. However, if it can't put out close to 340V, it may shut off or pulse and be very ineffective.

Some power supplies, like LED power supplies have a working voltage range, but put out a constant current - to light a LEDs. The voltage range is for the min and max numbers of bulbs it can power. Constant voltage supplies only work within a narrow voltage range but vary the current delivered based on the load up to the max rated current.

Given that this has a singular voltage output listed, I suspect it would NOT work as a jump starter.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Please elaborate then to this ignorant person. Hv battery is 330V. Is that not what you would charge it at?

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Voltage, V = Current, I * Resistance, R; V = I * R

What do you charge a 12V to? 12V? No. You charge a 12V battery to 14.4-14.8V depending on the type. When you remove the charging current at full charge, the voltage immediately starts dropping due to the removal of the charge current. It eventually settles to 12.6-12.9 after 24 hours depending on type.

Batteries don't have one voltage. They have a range of working voltage. Any listed voltage for a battery is the NOMINAL voltage. This number is used for calculations and represents an "average" voltage.

The FEH battery is 300V - it's nominal voltage. Any other referenced number goes against the standard by which batteries are rated. A NiMH cell is 1.2V nominal. 250 cells is 300V. It will be both well above and well below that value in operation, but the only time it will ever be 300V at rest is when it's fully discharged. When you charge it, the voltage increases according to V = I * R as the battery has a small internal resistance... probably about 0.25Ω. If you push on it with a charger, it will increase. If you pull on it with a load, it will decrease. In addition to the instantaneous voltage change from charge/discharge, voltage also varies with state of charge. As the battery fills, its voltage increases. As it empties, its voltage decreases.

At full charge under a low current (0.5A), the FEH battery will be full at between 353-358V (approximately).

A FEH battery needing a jump start will be at less then 300V and likely closer to 250V. The power supply likely can't operate at either of those voltages by design. Like when you put a 12V charger on a grossly discharged battery, most won't deliver their rated 2, 4, 6, 10A (whatever) current and will typically pulse small amounts of current as the supply tries to push current at the bottom of its operating range (maybe around 7V) and shuts down when it can't. These pulses do impart small amounts of charge and can SLOWLY bring the battery up to the working voltage range where the charger can push its max current.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Help please! My 2009 Merc Mariner HV Battery is dead. Due to circumstances beyond my control it was sitting too long. The 12V battery was unchargeable so I got a new one but it still wouldn't start. Dealer diagnostics found nothing else wrong except the HV battery had discharged to 260V. They would charge $2000 to attempt to recharge with no guarantee. They said DTCs were P0A7D (HV battery SOC low), P1A07 (inverter HV Performance), and P1A10 (HV battery disabled).

I see your previous postings about this but I'm a complete novice with no equipment. Can anybody help me? I'm in Albuquerque. Is there anyone in the area who knows how to do this? If I can't figure it out I may have to find a used or reconditioned battery somewhere and hope it works. It is such a nice vehicle with low miles and in very good condition otherwise. I need help. Thanks.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Patricia,

You should ask the dealership why a less than one hour procedure with a Ford Charger built for this application costs $2000.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/f1b0u5d7fm...Stall.mp4?dl=0

Process starts at 3:16

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

They said there is a $750 rental fee for 7 days and a big shipping fee both ways. The rest is labor and tax. Total would be $2017.26.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Wow. Tax on what? you aren't buying a product. Are services taxed in your area?

In the vast majority of cases, this isn't a DIY effort unless you're already very comfortable with high voltage. The "figure it out myself" folks are likely going to damage the vehicle or themselves.

You call these guys?

https://www.jimsautomotive.com/blog/albuquerque-hybrids

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Yes, services are taxed the same as products. And yes, I called that place. They will only work on foreign vehicles. They won't touch anything else.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Sounds like you're stuck with the dealer option. In my opinion, given that this issue arose from it sitting for too long, the chances of success are high; however, that assumes the dealer is competent. My first experience involved a dealer charging the customer $1000 in diagnostics, which included using the special charger; however, they failed to charge the battery.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

When you say outputs wired in series do you mean to wire the positive of one charger to the battery, the negative of another charger to the battery, and the leftover outputs to one another? Does it matter which charger's negative and which charger's positive output is connected to the battery?

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

I really don't like risking $2k without a guarantee that it will work. What do you think of these options?

1. A reconditioned battery from besthybridbatteries.com for $1949 plus shipping with a 3-year warranty or from another similar place.

2. A used battery from a salvage yard -- but how would I find a good one? And I don't know if they have any warranty.

3. I don't know if this is a bad idea but what if I take my battery in the trunk or back of another vehicle to bring to another city where someone could charge it, since I can't find anyone here to do it? Do you do this yourself or know of anyone who does? I wonder how much they would charge.

Thanks, S Keith, for all your replies.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

#1 will probably result in a battery that is inferior to the one you have.
#2 may be worse than where you are now.
#3 There's a guy in Phoenix who will do it for $450 including building you your own "jump charger" where you could hook it up and charge it from an electrical outlet if it happens again.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Hey, quick question:
Can I charge my FEH by towing? My HV bat is discharged from sitting 6 months and I just installed a new 12V battery. I have the 2006 FEH and using the magic button at the driver's side kick panel yielded no results... So I just wondered what my options were. I'm going down my list and towing was third. I assume the answer is no, but If the systems are all ok and just the HV bat is discharged, and I key on and tow (and slightly brake for dynamic charging), I wondered if there was any harm / any gain.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

No, but that's a great way to destroy the transaxle.

Make sure you are following the HV jump start procedures correctly.

• is your HV battery the original? If it's been replaced with a newer model year, it may not have the jump start anymore. The jump start converter is IN the HV battery.
• when jump starting, are you doing it without the key in the ignition? Basically, you just open the driver's side door, open the panel, press the button and walk away.
• It may take multiple jump starts to actually get enought juice into the battery to permit starting. Long term sitting causes the voltage to go dormant. Brief charging can inflate the voltages to where the car thinks it can start, but as soon as you attempt to start the car, the HV battery voltage plummets.

I recommend the following steps.

1. Ensure the HV battery safety disconnect is installed to permit normal operation.
2. Attach a 10A charger to the 12V battery.
3. Disconnect the 12V battery for 15 minutes
4. Reconnect 12V battery and ensure there are no loads on the 12V (no interior lights, etc.)
5. Press HV jump button
6. Close driver door and walk away, set 30 minute timer
7. repeat steps 5 and 6 eight times.
8. repeat steps 3 and 4
9. attempt start.

The HV jump start takes approximately 8 minutes. The purpose of the 30 minute wait is to insure the 12V remains charged by the 10A charger between jumps. Per the manual, two HV jumps can deplete the 12V battery.

If you have a 20A+ charger, you can do the jump charges every 15 minutes. Additionally, if you jump the 12V with a running vehicle, you can jump pretty much continuously as you'll be supplying all of the HV jump current from the running vehicle, but you will have to leave the jumping vehicle running the entire time for over an hour.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Lastly, once the vehicle is started, it will need to charge itself. Let it idle until the ICE shuts itself off.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Hi S Keith, i read a number of threads where you've helped others with an issue where the high voltage battery was experiencing an issue. I'm hoping you can give me advice on how to handle the situation I'm currently in. I have a 2006 FEH. About a week ago I was driving, and the car shut down with the 'stop safely now' error being raised. I started googling from the car to see what the problem might be, and came across the trick where you hit the button on the driver side panel to jump start the HV battery. That did the trick and I was back in business. Note that I only drove the car for about 5 minutes after that. In hindsight i should have driven longer to give the HV battery more of a charge. I started the car 3 more times over the next 2 hours, but after the third time I experienced the 'stop safely now' failure within just a few minutes. i jump started the HV again, started driving, but hit the same issue again 5 minutes later. Now the jump start needed 3 cycles this time, and I decided to just get the car home. Subsequent attempts to jump start the HV battery were met with a blinking green light on the jump start button, which indicates that the 12V battery doesn't have enough juice to adequately charge the HV battery. At this point I had a rental car, so I connected the 12V battery from that car to the 12V battery of my FEH, then clicked the jump start button on the driver panel. After one cycle my FEH wouldn't start, but after a second cyle (with my rental car still connected to the FEH) my car did manage to start. However, it only started for about 5 seconds before it died again with the stop safely now message.

this all happened about 5 days ago. I bought a 2016 ford edge as a replacement, but my FEH is still in my driveway. I don't want to take 200 dollars so someone can scrap it because I think it still has some life in it. I'd like to sell it if possible. This leads me to my question. Should i have AAA come out and charge my 12V battery, and attempt to jump start the HV battery again? do you have a better suggestion for jump starting the HV battery? Keep in mind I don't have any tools for measuring the quality of the HV battery, so I don't have a way of seeing that my actions are giving me the outcome i'm looking for. Is there an easy way for me to measure it that doesn't require hours worth of my time?

Thank you ahead of time for reading this novel. I wanted to make sure i gave the full sequence of events so you could factor that into your advice.