Re: HV Battery Jump
 

2X APC-35-350 peak at 200V. If you're going to use them, you need to add 2 more.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Ah. The HCH2 talk mixed in with the FEH talk threw me off. Just to be clear, can I use just 1 HLG-120H-C350A with a 120v source to charge the Ford Escape Hybrid? Some of the other power supplies listed along this thread have been on back order for a while, but he HLG-120H-C350A is in stock right now on Mouser. It seems easier to return the APC-35-350 and just use that instead if I can.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

HLG-120H-C350A should work fine with 90-305VAC input and 127-431VDC output at 0.35A. Current can be decreased via the dimmer, but there's no reason to do that.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

It works buddy. I charged mine using 1 HLG-120H-C350A because all the other parts were on backorder.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Alright. Thanks for the info guys. I am going to attempt this project this weekend if the weather is nice. I am going to try to open the battery without fully removing it from the car. We'll see how this goes. I plan to document the process along the way.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Are you actually in a situation where the vehicle will not start due to HV battery low voltage?

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Yes Sir. My 2009 FEH has been immobile since July 4th last year. The car was a fleet vehicle at < 70,000 miles that I bought in April 2019. Hybrid battery as well as 12v battery were replaced sometime in Fall 2018. They replaced it with a Dorman battery. I towed it to Ford and they wanted me to buy an brand name battery for $9,000 before they would try to diagnose it. Instead I took it back home and I used Forscan to get a few codes of the battery. The battery voltage would read as low as 190v at when I turned the key, and slowly charge up to ~260v as I left the car powered on.

Here are the codes I read:
PCM DTC P1A10
BCM DTC P0A27-60
BCM DTC P0AE1-60
BCM DTC P0A1F-60

I appreciate the wealth of information you've shared on this forum. I have called everyone in town that I think could've helped me, I even called the doorman hotline labeled on the battery. I have checked everything I could in the car that doesn't involve opening the battery up. I think this is the next step before I consider scrapping the car.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

260V is WAY too low to start the vehicle. Step 1 is definitely to charge it and see what's next.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Thank god i am reading good results from this post! I was about to buy me a Prolong Battery charger (very expensive) to charge my Hybrid battery. Thanks for the valuable info!

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Hello sir,
I am planning to recharge my HV battery pack with the same HLG-120H-C350A. I also purchase 2x D1NK60-5070 diode. Would like to confirm if 2 diodes is needed to charge or one is enough?
Thanks in advance!

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Avinator, it depends:
"Option #1
LPC-150-350 and 2X 1N4005G diodes

Option #2
LPC100-350
APC35-350
Fuse holder
1 diode in the positive output lead with the stripe on the battery side"

.. I recieved parts for option 2 but I wish we could get a more detailed diagram. Having a hard time figuring out how to wire it up and i don't want to do it wrong

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

It doesn't matter at all - 1 diode or 2. I use 2 because they're crazy cheap, and it provides protection if a single diode fails and goes short circuit. I'm also not always consistent in my recommendations because I'm either 1) forgetful, 2) in a hurry, 3) not 100% engaged. Advice is what you pay for it.

Here's a wiring "diagram":

[Battery (-)] (-)----[diode(|)]-----APC-100-350------(+)[wire nut](-)-----APC-35-350-----[diode(|)]----(+) [(+) Battery]

If you can't figure out the above, it's probably beyond your skill set to get this done.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

How am i able to tell once its charged enough?

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

320V target voltage with the following criteria applied:

Charge for a minimum of 4 hours, no matter what.
If you achieve 320V before 4 hours, continue charging until 4 hours is reached.
If you achieve 320V before 6 hours, you may terminate charge.
If you do not achieve 320V before 6 hours, terminate charge.
Charge for a maximum of 6 hours, no matter what.

Prior to starting the car, ensure your 12V battery is 100% charged and make sure all electrical accessories are off.
Upon first starting the car, DO NOT DRIVE IT!
Allow the vehicle to idle-charge until it turns the gas engine off.
Once gas engine turns off, and no problems are indicated, you may drive it normally.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Thanks for the reply,

I was able to charge mine with one diode. Prior to charging, the reading of the pack was 301v. I charged mine for 30 mins using a HLG-120H-C350A and a D1NK60-5070 diode. After 30 mins the pack read 335v. Before closing the battery pack, I made sure the car started! luckily it did!

Thanks for all these great info!

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

At 301V the pack was completely flat.

After 30 minutes 0.175Ah was input into the battery.

0.175Ah on a rating of 5.5Ah is 3.2% SoC. This is a very low state of charge and not at all ideal for starting. That's why I recommend 4-6 hours. 4-6 hours gives you 1400-2100mAh, which is at the extreme low end of the normal SoC range ensuring the battery is not damaged when it's hit with 30A of load to spin the ICE.

Charging for only 30 minutes risks damaging the battery.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Hello sir,

The reason i only charged it for 30 mins was that, the power supply was getting too warm (not hot to touch) and that the battery pack read 335v. I have been using the car for over a week now and runs fine. Now that the car is back to normal operation, do you still recommend to charge it an additional 4 hours? I was able to run a cable from the relay out of the battery pack just incase I have to charge it again. You mentioned that target voltage 320v, now that it reached 335v on my first 30min charge was not sufficient? Please let me know if charging the battery 4 more hours will be a good idea at this point. I would love to hear your feedback and I am doing this for the best health of the car or battery.

Thanks in advance.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

No. As I indicated in my prior post, the 4 hour charge is to prevent damage during start up.

You charged the battery to 3.2% SoC. The vehicle is now likely near 50% SoC from normal operation.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Dear S.Keith,
your thread contains highly appreciable information, ‘Thanks’ from the bottom of my heart, read your post related to 2008-2009 FEH, your patience, prompt reply, practical solution and inspiring advise is life saving, therefore will try to bring back life in to my Ford Escape Hybrid 2009 (87k mileage), which has been laying in back yard for nearly a year and the HV battery is at 241V now.

01. I bought a new 12V battery 6 months back and tried to start the FEH but it didn’t work then. Now used Schumacher BE01255 Jump starter 245A@5ec., PEAK 1200A,+ charged the battery to 12.9V, but as soon as I connect it with the FEH and turned the key the voltage drops quickly. Should I return the 12V battery and get a new one?

02. Dashboard shows Wrench, Check Engine, Oil and Red Triangle sign.

03. I have scanned the FEH with FORScan using ELM327 and the scan report for DTCs are
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...255b97d07d.jpg


DTCs in PCM : P1000:00-2B, P1A10:00-2B

DTCs in ABS : C1014:07-60, C0034:29-60, C0031:29-60, C0021:21-60, C1018:00-20, U3003:16-60

DTCs in TCM : P1260-FF

DTCs in BCM : P0A7D-60

DTCs in IC : B1318-20, U2023-20, B1601-20

Have done some Live test , DTCs in Modules, Service Procedures and the Scan report are shown in the picture in this post for your kind attention and valuable opinion.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...104d494b98.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...d8069de236.jpg

04. I am guessing all these DTCs are somehow interrelated and due to the HV battery is at low voltage, if this is correct, charging the battery and attempt to start it will be the first
initiative. I have drawn kind of a diagram keeping in mind your suggestions which is shown in the pic.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...a407efacb6.jpg

05. Are the connections made in the diagram correct?

06. Which charger will be BETTER LPC-100-350+ APC-35-350 or HLG-120H-C350A ? If HLG-120H-C350A is used should it be set at max output? (for voltage 110vac)

07. What kind and what voltage of Fuse ( example:.Fuses with Leads (Through Hole) FUSE, CERAMIC TUBE 1.6A, 600VAC/600VDC 0ADAP1600-RE Datasheet ) should be
appropriate one and which lead should have it ?

08. I was thinking to use cable/wire of (DC output) 16/18 or 22 AWG since HLG-120H-C350A is of 17 AWG wire and LPC-100-3500 is of 18 AWG wire, but you mentioned 28AWG to get low current flow (this sounds GOOD ) your opinion on this once again ?

09. After Charging and before I attempt to start the FEH, should I clear all codes? If I have to, will I be able to clear these codes by FORScan? or it will reset once the battery is
disconnected?

Thanks for taking the pain to read the post and it will be highly appreciated if you could reply on the above for a person stuck in middle of a desert without water.....luckily has internet and laptop! Thanks....once...again..

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

01 12V must be healthy and charged. Any ignition on voltage of 11.5V or greater should be fine; however, that is the low limit on a marginal battery.

02 Expected due to codes present

03 thanks

04 Most likely. HV battery voltage must be resolved before meaningful diagnostics can be continued.

05 both are correct.

06 no difference. Cost and availability.

07 1A/250VAC on supply side.

08 you're only passing 0.35A. 16/18/22 awg are all way more than sufficient. 28 can pass 0.83@60°C, and you should get nowhere near there. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge

09 clear via 12V disconnect for 5 minutes

Charge for 4 hours prior to attempting start. 4 hours of charging will only put 1.4Ah vs. 5.5 rated into the battery.

Once started, do not drive, and allow the car to idle until 1) until the ICE shuts off or 2) 20 minutes. This ensures the ICE has charged the HV battery to within the normal operating range.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Thanks for the reply, ...... will update on the progress once the electrons are inserted.....let see how it does....

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

07 2A/250VAC fuse. 1A might blow.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

what kind of connectors are on the leads at the HV battery (relay);
do you use - alligator clips or something else?
how have built using hlg-120h-350b - do not have readings yet
09 feh
left it sit too long

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Picture in post #53. You should probably read the whole thread, particularly post #1

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

S Keith thank you so much for the detailed procedure! I've order the pieces on mouser and should be receiving and building charger next week.

One question: Is it possible to open the battery and do this procedure without removing the battery pack from vehicle but properly disconnecting it?
It seems this person did it: no mention of how though.
Any help would be appreciated. I'm trying to avoid the back breaking lift since i don't have an engine lift device like it shows in manual or know anyone to lend me one :-(

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Well....I will try the whole procedure in practical after few days ( delayed 'cause of whether condition ) keeping HV battery in FEH or it has to be removed for better. I have built the charger with two diod in DC side and a fuse on AC side. Will update once it is set with the battery and charged.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Please read the thread starting at post #1

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

that person did not say that in the video - perhaps that is said in the body of the youtube explanation.
However, it is possible because I just did it. It is Not a easy task but i had no experience. i actually took out the back covers (of the fans) and
that was not necessary.
there are 4 bolts on the sides (2 on each side) that are the main problems. I think those 2 big bolts on each side i got out without lifting up
the battery assembly - i took them out with a vicegrip. But there are one small one on each side of the top cover that can only be accessed
by lifting up the entire battery assembly - And i did that. I used a roofers shingle-lift tool to get a slight lift and put small wooden wedges under the
angle-iron feet of the battery compartment. I continued with one side by putting successively larger blocks of wood and got to the point of using 2 x 4
until i could get the security bit into the bolt and i then unscrewed it with a cresent wench on the security bit (only). Lifting the side at the back bumper is
easy since it is light weight - the front is very heavy

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Hi, S. Keith, quick question, how can i take live reading when the battery is charging ( with multimeter, the battery cover is open), i am at the point to start charging but relay fuse every thing has been tighten up , cover is open, tested charging port, shows ok 0.5v so the diods are working, but cant see the current charges, and want to take live reading. or it has to be FORScan? Pls. advice, thanks.....best wishes....eagerly waiting for reply

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

If you've put the relay cover back on, then I've got nothing for you besides cutting in to the charger wires on the battery side of the diode to check voltage. Exercise extreme caution if you do this.

It might be best for you to just use Forscan with ignition on (no start). You will see voltage, but the current number won't be accurate/meaningful.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Crossposting a very long post to a virtually unrelated thread is rather frowned upon in most forums.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

FORScan Codes:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...28666e543e.jpg

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

@ S Keith Steve, can you please confirm the bolts pictured on the relay are 10mm? Also, how long should the wires be for the connection from the relay to outside the HVTB?? I'm building one of these to ship out of state and I need to know what size connectors to use. Thank you. By the way, this and the related threads contain a wealth of knowledge and you've been incredibly helpful (and patient.)

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

i did my blind - and that is the same query that i had.
after the charger was built, i sat it out on the concrete driveway out of harm's way.
i had it plugged into an outside outlet which was controlled by a switch inside and was also
using a surge protector in the setup. hooked a voltmeter to the output of the charger.
i flipped the switch and went out hoping that nothing had
blown up :)
i think it was reading 406 volts
i didn't make any changes so i was presuming that it was changing (And it was)
Did you get the charger figured out?

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Some had asked about photos of an assembled unit. These are pictures of the one my mechanic friend and I assembled yesterday. It's pretty much exactly as S Keith wrote it up except we soldered connections instead of using wire nuts. We also modified two fuse holders to protect the diodes (they are wrapped in blue tape.)

Note: These are for illustrative purposes only, you should have a professional assemble this for you. In other words, I am not responsible for you frying yourself or someone else.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...0f01d95873.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...7d8b33c0b6.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...54aadf2558.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...182ef6ceb3.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gre...45888c7a55.jpg

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Nice.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

One other thing I would add is there is NO need to either remove the HVTB from the vehicle or even unbolt it and try to tilt it. You can do this with the HVTB in place. You need to completely remove the cargo interior trim panels, not just loosen them, remove them. Remove all of the top bolts from the HVTB...super easy access. There are two bolts on the sides about mid-battery with straps attached. You can get to those with channellocks. Moving toward the front of the vehicle, also on the sides of the lid, are one more bolt on each side. These are the tricky ones to get to. If you have one of these:

You can cut down the bits to make them shorter and it will fit. Remove those and the final 2 on the front edge of the lid which are easy to access with the rear seat moved out of the way and you can remove the cover to access the relay.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

This is, I believe, a summary of the collective thread wisdom for the procedure. I added a few notes/thoughts. Usual disclaimers about don't try this at home, hire a professional, risk of electrocution/death, etc.

Note 1: the entire battery casing is plastic, only the covers are metal, as are the points where the screws go in. You don't want to damage the casing by over tightening anything or prying up on it.

Note 2. it is essential for proper battery cooling that the HVTB covers fit and seal properly, do not bend them and do not damage any seals.

Note 3. EVERYTHING can be done with the battery in place in the vehicle.



Safety is obviously foremost. .

IMPORTANT: The charger described in this thread produces approximately 380 volts, but at low amperage. The two ring connectors are exposed on the short harness that attaches to the HVTB battery relay. NO NOT TOUCH those if that harness is connected to the charger and the charger is plugged in. There would be no reason for you to connect that harness to the charger until AFTER it is installed on the HVTB. I purchased red 3D printed safety caps to protect the female connector of the short harness.

Be very familiar with the photo of the relay block in post #53. He circled the positive and negative connection points on the relay block in red(+) and black(-). The terminal ends on my harness are color coded the same way, which is obviously the standard.

IMPORTANT: Remove the big orange service plug from the HVTB when working on it.

Needed:

Security Torx bits
Trim panel tool
Ratcheting screwdriver with bits.


I would suggest you go in this order:
1. Disconnect 12 volt battery, put it on a charger.

2. Remove orange service plug from HVTB

3. Completely remove trim pieces in rear cargo area. Here's a good YT video (Note: he made a mistake at 1:04...open that little cover and remove the fastener from there, not the way he did it, and you won't break it.) You will need a trim tool. Both sides are similar.:


4. Remove HVTB AC vent. Note: scroll down for 09+ models:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/85demexnlo...draft.pdf?dl=0

5. Remove large cover fasteners . Note here is a video of a guy opening up a battery after it has been removed from the vehicle showing you bolt placements. You, of course, are going to be doing this in place. The top ones are easy...super easy access. There are two bolts on the sides of the lid about mid-battery with straps attached (0.48 of video). You can get to those with channellocks. Moving toward the front of the vehicle, also on the sides of the lid, are 2 more bolts (0.56). Those are the hardest ones to get to. Buy one os these low profile Use one of these ultra low profile sets and you can get to them(credit to elborak for finding this set.)


Then remove the final two bolts on the front edge of the lids (1.04). Super easy access with rear seat moved out of the way



6. At this point you should be able to remove the large cover towards the front of the vehicle.

7. Access the relay in the HVTB per post #1.. There are written directions and high quality photos. Here's a YT video of someone who has opened up the HVTB in place in the vehicle and is getting ready to install a harness.::

8. Attach the short harness per the photographs paying close attention to polarity.

9. Reassemble relay into HVTB


10. Route the harness out of the battery so that the female connector with the red safety cap is hanging outside the HVTB casing. Consider notching the casing as you don't want the lid to cut into the harness and short out the HVTB. That would be the definition of a bad day.

11. Reinstall HVTB lid being mindful of torque specs.

12. Reinstall duct for HVTB AC system.




CHARGING PROCEDURE:
Remove orange service plug completely
Remove red relay harness safety cover
Connect charger to relay harness
Plug charger into 110VAC supply
Install orange service plug
Charge for 4 hours
Remove orange service plug
Unplug charger power from 110VAC supply
Unplug charger from relay harness
Install red relay harness safety cover
Install orange service plug
Reinstall/connect 12 volt battery
Clear any codes from vehicle with scan tool or equivalent.
Start vehicle, allow to run until ICE shuts off and vehicle goes into HEV mode.
Thank S Keith. This all started with his ingenuity.

At full charge under a low current (0.5A), the FEH battery will be full at between 353-358V (approximately).

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Thanks GatorJ. Nice collation of S Keith's (+ a few others) great instructions. And I love the tip of cutting down an offset bit for getting to the side bolts.

Re: HV Battery Jump
 

Well, I can attest that this charger works. The charger pictured above was shipped out of state to the owner of an '09 FEH with a HVTB discharged to the point the vehicle would not start. He left it on an 8 hour timer with a fan blowing on the battery and it immediately started. The vehicle was left running for several minutes and it went into EV mode. I was sent a video of the FEH running normally.

A sincere thank you to Keith and the other thread contributors.