Hi Mark:

Thanks for your concern, really appreciate it. These 'issues' still get a lot of time on forums all over the net! The MAF one is kind of urban legend now, I think. Sure, there's trade-offs to flow and filtration, but I'm a keepin' the K&N.

 

Yeah,.. me too. The K&N's are very good filters out of the box, and actually get better as they age, and get a little "dirty".

Plus, I've been told by an aircraft mechanic, and he can make no compromises, that any particles that would make it through, would be of such a size that they would be harmless. For example: "Smoke" is made of solid particles, however, "smoke" would pass harmlessly through your engine.

 

This is what similar to what I view on the advanceautoparts.com link for the hybrid battery filter.

 

It's $38.99 as I indicated earlier. I'm promted for a zip code when I hit the link.

Oregonians can't buy 'em for your $17.77 deal?

 

I was just wondering how the K&N filter for the battery is doing on those that are using it.
Is the oil causing any changes in performance? Any changes at all?
It's time for me to change mine and I'm struggling between K&N and Purolator.
I bought the K&N air filter when I had my oil change done several weeks ago.


Thanks for the replies!

 

I've had mine for less than 1 year, but it's more of a piece of mind, convenience thing, knowing it will last the life of the car, than a performance issue. Over 2 or 3 years, it will start saving you money also.

If/when it does get dirty, you can wash it, dry it, apply a SLIGHT amount of oil, and stick it back in.

Of course, I've heard some people do that with the stock "paper" battery filter too! ( sans oil )

-John

 

Has anyone used K&N part# YA-1602-U for the battery filter in an 08? Does it fit?

Anyone know the K&N part number for the ICE filter?

Cris

 

If you are concearned about oil on the MAF sensor with the K&N, use WD-40 to lightly oil the filter. It is a lighter lubricant and dries pretty well after about 15 minutes.

I have had K&N's for over 10 years now. I wash them with purple power from Advanced (It cleans tires very nicely also). Then I let it dry, and lightly spray it with WD-40, then again let it dry for 10 or so minutes before I put it back in the vehicle.

I personally believe the quicker reving motor will appreciate the better airflow.

I just checked my oil for the first time at 700 miles, and it has a strong oil smell to it, so I would be surprised if it is synthetic. My oil looked a little cloudy, must have been the assembly grease on the bearings so fourth.

I know they say 5K miles before the first change but...I am not sure if I can hold out that long...especially on break in oil. They used to say to not go synthetic before 7500 miles, but my last 2 Dodge trucks with the Hemi's that used 10w20 were full syn. from the factory. Maybe I should change at 1500 with just standard Mobile, then go synthetic at 3K miles..and 3K miles therafter?

 

I don't think you can tell if an oil is synthetic by the smell. Synthetics are made from 2 kinds of base stock, petroleum and vegetable. I have never "bought in" to the long drain interval first oil change, so I would change the oil at around 3000 mile anyway. But I would stay with the synthetic as the demands of the start stop of the engine dictate synthetic oil. then 10000 miles after with a Mobil 1 5w20 or equivalent will be fine, remember the ICE does not run all the time.