Is there enough extra heater hose to fold it and clamp it to stop hot water flow to the heater core?

 

I installed a by-pass in my '05 FEH manual A/C system where the two heater hoses go into the heater core under the hood. I did not cut the original heater hoses so they could be reconnected during winter. I even used the same 2 original clamps to hook the factory heater hoses to the by-pass. Here are the parts I used to make the $12 by-pass:

1. 2 5/8" plastic heater elbows to make a U

2. 2 SS clamps to connect a short piece (2") of new 5/8" heater hose to the two elbows.

3. 2 5/8" rubber heater plugs to plug the male nipples on the heater core to keep it clean.

This by-pass kept cold air circulating longer in EV. The heater core stayed cool till I reconnected it in winter and the A/C got colder faster without heated coolant passing through the heater core and A/C duct work. Links to my photos:
http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/showp.../500/ppuser/36
http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/showp.../500/ppuser/36

I bought everything from my local NAPA store and it hooks-up and reconnects in minutes. I brought a kit to hook a by-pass in Debbie Kates '05 FEH at the '07 Hybridfest and did it in minutes at the Fair with just a screwdriver and pair of pliers to expand the factory clamps.

GaryG

 

Thanks for the information. Is there a reason that the lines have to be reconnected instead of installing a shutoff valve?

 

Yes, there is a special electric pump to pump heated coolant to the heater core when in EV. Do you want to burn-up that pump?

GaryG

 

Thanks again for your response. Do you know what the temperature drop a properly operating air conditioner should should be capable of doing? I'm thinking 30 degree drop would be possible, with at least 25 degrees. Since mine now is only doing 20 degrees set on max, I think it is not operating properly.

 

To get the best "number" you must use the lowest possible blower speed when measuring inlet vs outlet differential temperature...?

 

I bought a thermometer and checked the temp drop on our escape this morning. Outside temp was 81 degrees and inside the cooling duct it only dropped to 70 degrees. This afternoon I took my Blazer and made a short trip and observed outside temp of 88 and the inside temp in cooling duct was 48 or a 40 degree difference. Tomorrow I have an appointment at a Ford garage to evaluate what is wrong with my system. Hopefully they will find what is wrong. Both of my checks were done with the system set at max cool and low fan speed setting.

 

When you set the FEH at max cooling the blower speed will also go into max speed. Max blower speed will move the airflow through the evaporator vanes surface area too FAST for efficient, MAXIMUM differential cooling.

 

Update on air conditioning problem Went to Ford garage and told them my experience with the Escape air conditioner. They said(asst service manager owns an escape) that it should drop temp 35 degrees if working right. They ask about any warranty and I said I have one at the garage where I purchased the Escape Hybrid. They visited on the phone with the dealer that I got the car from and he said to bring it back right away and he would "fix" it. So, back for try number four. I asked them if they had checked the coolant lines to the battery and he said no. Long story cut short they found dye where one of those lines rubbed a small hole. They repaired it and recharged system and my wife drove it home and said the temp in duct was 50 degrees while outside was 90 degrees. Hopefully we have problem solved! Thanks for all the input from everyone.

 

That's not the way it works in my 2005 FEH. Max setting just overides the electric motor and keeps the ICE on. When in "Max" I can still set 4 different blower speeds. I checked my inside temperature and it is only 10 to 15 degrees lower than outside temperature......at any setting.