I actually got this thing running, and took it out for a couple of laps around the block. The charging display on the factory NAV seemed to show that I was charging the hybrid pack properly.
At the moment, the only codes I have are for the ABS/brakes. While driving, it did seem like the rear disks were dragging, maybe a stuck caliper? Or is there something more hybrid specific i should be looking for?

BTW: while the pedal started to feel firm, the braking was VERY questionable.

Also, it seemed that the ICE was running somewhat rough, and it wouldn't rev above around 3000 rpm, I assume that's not normal?
Battery stuff:

12v battery freshly charged, just performed the jump start

After running back and forth on my driveway
I would have pulled figures after my short drive, but the battery in my laptop ran down.

Thoughts? Comments?

 

High revs were due to low HV Battery SoC.

.31V is high on the DEL_MOD_V.

I recommend you start and let it idle until the engine shuts off. Should charge to around 40%.
Key off
Key on/engine off
Open RMODE_BALANCE function
Key to start
Wait until engine runs
Start RMODE_BALANCE and wait until it finishes

 

My cell balance shows as a percentage. The balance mode only gets it below 5%, should see if there is absolute voltage PID like this in the 09.

 

Done.


After rebalance

 

I took it for an extended drive around the backstreets in the neighborhood. It's running a lot smoother..the brakes are still crap though. Gonna have to work on that.

 

In September last year, I bought new front rotors and pads, all the recommended Motocraft parts, from RockAuto, which offers lots of different options also. I stuck with the "stone cold" factory part numbers and setup, which was more expensive than some of their options, but the brakes are still perfect, smooth, quiet, bite hard, etc. and I've not seen much dust at all. My rear drums and parking brake were fine. As always, parking brake cables can deteriorate/stick/rust with age.

FordTechMakuloco has good videos doing both the front and rear (drum) brakes on Escapes from these years. He has a couple of good tips and best practices. While you are in there, take a look at the ABS tone rings. They have been known to fracture and cause ABS system problems.

My car was in relatively good shape even though the rotors and pads were worn, but replacing them made a noticeable difference after ~60,000 miles. I almost missed an off-ramp the other day, pounded on the brakes and the ABS *definitely* came on but no other drama, very rapid deceleration.

 

My brakes "felt" fine at first and had lots of pad left. But the car wouldn't stop, threw code and sometimes the pedal went to the floor. All I had to do was bleed it luckily. With the drive by wire trickery, it's hard to tell what's really going on. At least it tells you what all the pressures are at each one. You might have discs at the back vs 09 drums. But you have the annoying extra parts and complicated HCU. At least the junkyard will knock paying ford 5k for it right out. My local would probably charge me 50 bucks for it or not know what it was. Too much of the diagnostic tree in the manual is "replace master cylinder", "replace HCU", etc Either way, my brakes somehow got air in them from the car sitting with a closed system. How is that even possible?

 

Yeah, mine is about the same right now, great pads on the front, but some codes, good brake pedal feel, but won't stop worth a s%$$#!
When I FINALLY get some free time, I'll look at the back brakes, and re-evaluate the complete brake system. I haven't touched the thing since my last post, too many other things going on, and this is/was just a "fun" project I picked up.

Seems like it's going to be a nice vehicle for driving around town when I get it fixed up, I'm in the process of selling a low mileage 2010 non-hybrid Escape I got at auction a while back that I fixed up, that was my grocery getter.

 

It is indeed nice, just a bit slow. Besides rust it also outlasts the gas ones. Still see ones with 400k on the clock for sale.