Originally Posted by stevedebi

Thanks for the clarification. I presume this means then that the 2009 2.5 was also a different design from the 2009 ICE Escape 2.5l?

Originally Posted by wptski

Didn't they change something in the AC cabin and battery cooling? Or was that in 2010?

Originally Posted by stevedebi

They went with an electric compressor part way through the 2009 model year. I believe that they eliminated the external battery door in 2010.

But I'm sure Gary will chime in with the full scoop...

Originally Posted by Philip James Wallick

I have been an automotive technician for 15 years, 4 of those years at a Ford dealership. I also own a taxi company and 4 Ford Escapes hybrids with the atchison cycle 2.3L engine.
If I were to take a guess I would say that your ford escape engine failed due to high back pressure. The catalytic converter failed causing high back pressure and heat which damaged piston rings and possibly valve seals. And caused the engine to start using oil at a very high rate. Which in-turn caused the bearings to be starved for oil (that engine only holds 4 quarts of oil total) and being 2 quarts low on oil is losing half its oil.
If you replace the engine but don't check back pressure, you will have the same problem again very soon.

Originally Posted by GatorJ

Should have thrown a P0420 code before that happened.

Originally Posted by ArthurKnowles

I'm new to the forum, but have browsed and seached for a while, and not come acrross the information I need to make an informed decision so hope some of you can help me out,

I have a 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid with 126,000 miles on it. I have not had ANY real issues until now. In the past I changed my oil

DIY or hired>

at the recomended 10K mark and air & a/c fileters every 20K. Every 60K it had a tune up. I've put two sets of tires on it. Ford has repalced the cooling unit on the electric motor (at about 10K) and the battery fans (at 110K). It has never used any oil (and I mean pretty much zero oil loss between changes) until the failure. Here's how it happened...

I was driving up a steep mountain road and when I was able to pass a slower moving car I stepped on the gas and passed.

Shortly after that my motor shutoff wiotht he "Stop Now Safely" warnming.

I can't think of any reason why a spun bearing would somehow result in a "Stop Now Safely" message. Low oil level, yes, but you would have seen that icon first.

Other..? Chime in?

I pulled over. Stopped. Restarted the car. Turned around and went home (about 5 miles). There was a light tap in the engine. I Checked the oil and it was down about 2 quarts low. I was a bit surprised by this as it had not lost any oil preior to the last oil change, That was about 5K prior to the event.

I took the car in to Ford and was told it had spun the bearing on cylinder number 1.

How was this determined, partial engine disassembly?

A rebuild of the engine will cost $6550. It will have a three year unlimited miles warrenty.

I understand why the first cylinder spun a bearing as it was oil starved at that point.

No, the lateral (FWD) tilt of the engine would have very little effect on the oil pump inlet remaining immersed in the sump oil. Bearing lubricating oil was being supplied by the oil pump.

Particulary when the car was at a 45 degree angle uphill. I had been driving that same mountain road for about 18 months and had recently moved so I no longer needed to do so (just after my last maintenance on the vehicle), but I'm also wondering if there was some other reason for lossing that much oil in such a short time (when I compare it to previous usage).

I've also tried to find a rebuild kit for the engine, but have had no luck. I did find some mention of the engine being the same as a Mazda engine, but am unsure of exactly what model and if this is actually true or not. So, I'm strill trying to figure out two things:

1) Is a rebuild kit available? Or one from a Mazda engione I could use.

2) Should I even bother to try and rebuild it myself? Or just stick with the replacement motor.

As an FYI ... I have rebuilt other motors int he past, but they were cast iron engines. Aside from a motorcycle engine. I know the technology and tolerances have changed a lot and am just unsure if a home mechanic can do a proper assembly job using a machine shop to do the fine detail work. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Art

Originally Posted by stevedebi

Gary,
Is the FEH motor physically different from the normal ICE Escape up till 2009 (2.3L)? I thought the difference was how the computer controls the engine.

Originally Posted by wwest

Sounds as if all you need is a new crankshaft and ALL crankshaft bearings. Any chance the engine was "short-filled"..? IMO oil must be burned or leaked, leaked path may be into the crankcase and then PCV "burned".