The reference to engine temperature 170F and then 175-190F is confusing. These figures would be normal radiator (FWT on the scanguage) values but not engine (CHT on the scanguage) values that normally run around 220F.

 

Yes that is correct. That is in reference to FWT temperatures. That's the gauge I have set. I was mainly pointing out that there was a difference after changing out the T-Stat. There is no CHT available on my Scangauge for my '05 Escape. Is that a programmed gauge?

 

The cylinder head temperature (CHt) can be a programmed and displayed value as shown in the photo:

 

That's good to know. I could probably find this if I wasn't so lazy... But is there a complete list of gauges that can be programmed for the FEH? Can you point me to that? Do you really have 3 gauges hooked up to your car all the time or is the picture just displaying a test of some kind you're doing?

 

Look here: http://www.scangauge.com/support/pdfs/XGAUGE.pdf
Have fun!

 

Interesting... I've had the exact same issue with my 08 for the last few days. I was able to run in EV no problem until the weekend and over the last 3 days, no matter how long I drive with the ICE running, it will not shut down and go into EV. It has been above freezing the last few days, into the +10c area and no EV at all. I thought it might have been the battery reconditioning itself but now that i'm reading this, i'm starting to wonder if the MEC pump has failed or perhaps the fan kit in the battery itself.

Thank goodness for extended warranties!

 

This is still an intermittent problem for me. I've been able to mitigate it by using the neutral shift trick (shift into neutral while above 6 mph coasting to a stop) when I know it's not going to shut the ICE off. This actually seems to kick it out of whatever condition is causing the problem. It has to be a sensor or something that is just on the edge causing this to happen. It's rare for the ICE not to shut off after a minute or so even when it delays the shut down. If I sit at idle for very long, it will shut down within one minute. It's as if there is a temperature parameter that is not quite where it should be until it idles for a bit. After that, it seems to be fine in stop and go traffic for the remainder of the trip.

 

now I am worried, I have noticing this issue for a few months, but my wife drives the car for a few minutes in the morning to her work, maybe 10 min, and at return maybe 10 or 20, so I was wondering that maybe this time was not enough to charge batts. I used it for a full week on hghway and city traffic and it started to behave very good again, but then again it is behaving like that, so I do not knwo if this is a problem or not. Also I had the service soon message repaired last year, it was the batt door actuator, but it was long ago. I will check the pump to hear if it is working, my country is very hot, with outside temp 102 to 110 ad midday, if pump were failing, i would get the stop safely now or not? What do you think of this? my country is always hot!
About the service soon, in my case the pot inside the actuator was dirty, so it was a matter to clean it and regrease it and it worked fine, think about it before buying it, since it behaves like new and no problem in more than a year.

 

I started having the same problems yesterday. Cool temps (about 70), runs fine for about 15 minutes then NO EV. Battery still charges and assists in acceleration, but the engine will not shut off. Been happening for 2 days now. Off to the dealer I guess.

 

After a few months of consistent behavior that is not what I was used to before I changed out the thermostat, the current behavior seems to be tolerable. The vehicle used to consistently shut off the ICE at every stop. Now it sometimes idles for 10-30 seconds at a stop light before it shuts off. Then it behaves more consistently from stop to stop, but it may do the same thing again on that drive. Lately I haven't had any extended periods of idle before it will shut off the ICE. Of course if it doesn't shut off, I tend to get annoyed and use the neutral shift with braking trick and manually turn it off at the next stop. After doing that it seems to kick it out of the bad pattern where it doesn't shut off while approaching a stop like it should.

My best guess at this point is that there is something that is out of tolerance enough to cause the behavior, but not out far enough to generate a code.