Or I’ll wait for someone who’s actually willing to be helpful without the condescension. And I actually called several prior to even posting this. One (the service manager I referred to in the OP) actually said if they don’t have to diagnose and it’s strictly a charge for an hour or so, he’d do it for around $50. But my concern is that there’s a deeper problem than just a charge because I’m still confused on why the HV jump start button isn’t working and if that could potentially mean the battery is shot and may not even hold a charge. So if I could avoid another multiple towing fees and charge fee on top of everything else I’ve spent, I’ll do that. Plus, they don’t have availability for quite a while with all the flooding that went on in NJ.

I’ll see what happens though.

 

On my 2008, the jump start LED is so faint that it is invisible unless it's pitch dark. But it works. I've had to do 8-10 rounds on occasion, followed by a BCM rebalance to clear the wrench light

 

Holy ****. 8-10 rounds. Are you doing it once every 30 minutes or just one after another. And mine isn't just dim. Doesn't light up at all.

I bought a clamp ammeter and FORScan bluetooth adapter so I'm going to test to see if any power is running to the HV battery if I push the jump start button. Ammeter will be here tomorrow and scanner will be here today.

BTW - what's a BCM rebalance? Not the most auto savvy over here. And thanks for the info.

 

One after another, with a 10A battery charger on the 12V battery.
Battery rebalance in Forscan

 

What does a battery rebalance do?

 

Don't know exactly, but it clears the wrench and allows the system to start charging itself up.

 

Got ya. Well the scanner is coming any minute now from Amazon so I’ll give it a shot. Appreciate it, once again.

This is an article regarding one of the codes that popped up on my BlueDriver scanner (now lost) prior to it going to the shop. Not sure if it would help at all helping give me some direction.

https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/pul...tory-of-p1a10/

 

So my OBDLinkMX+ just came in. I currently don't have a PC laptop, as I primarely use my desktop since I do heavy GPU intensive work on it so I downloaded FORScan Lite on my Android phone and scanned it. There are soooo many codes now and now I'm at a point I might give up on this vehicle.



I attempted the BCM rebalance but it says the vehicle has to be on in idle and the car doesn't turn on so it seems like that's a lost cause.

The ABS codes are likely because a new (pre-owned) ABS module was installed and they were not able to initialize it since the car won't start so I'm supposed to take it back to them once the vehicle is up and running.

The PCM codes scare me because they also just recently replaced the PCM (also pre-owned) but that was supposedly successfully programmed.

I have no idea what those HV battery codes mean.

How limited am I on the Lite version of FORScan? And is there a way to monitor the voltage in the HV battery?

 

First things first: Make sure you've got a known good 12V battery in the car before you do anything else. You want a known reliable battery in there. Then get yourself a laptop of any kind going all the way back to Windows 2000 and install the full version of FORScan Extended License (buy the 1 year license with PayPal.)

Then you will have a lot more options and be able to see the HV battery voltage and a great deal more. As long as the OBDLinkMX+ will hook up to the laptop you will be fine. I don't have the Lite version of FORScan and if you're doing GPU intensive calculations somewhere, borrow someone's laptop and do it right. Stop screwing around with the smartphone interface, put it on the "big screen" and check everything.

 

The 12V battery is literally brand new. To this day, I have not started the car once since it’s been installed and while at the garage, the mechanic said he had it on the charger for the bulk of the time it was in his bay.

****. I shouldn’t have bought the Lite version then. For the most part, my desktop set up is for 4K/6K video editing from my cinema rig along with extensive Photoshop work where image files often end up in the GBs so I prefer using a desktop. On the go, I recently got a iPad Pro to do some lighter editing in Adobe Lightroom on the go but regret it since it’s my first Apple experience and it wasn’t really that necessary. Should have just got a PC laptop with the money I spent on the Apple Magic Keyboard and the iPad Pencil. smh.

I’m trying to think who I know has a laptop that I could borrow to scan this. -_-