2007 FEH MPG woes? Where do I start?
#1
10-31-2022, 10:45 PM
2007 FEH MPG woes? Where do I start?
2007 just hit 200,000 miles. Been doing a lot of maintenance on it since deciding to keep it until the car market is less crazy. Which brought me to various videos and webpages for different maintenance items...
Which showed me that people routinely get 30+ or 40+ per tank? I've been pretty happy with the ~27mpg I can get driving rather modestly around town and under 65mph on the freeway. I've read through the FAQ again and still can't put an obvious finger on it. I've ordered a ForScan tool which is on the way. What should I be looking at first?
Which showed me that people routinely get 30+ or 40+ per tank? I've been pretty happy with the ~27mpg I can get driving rather modestly around town and under 65mph on the freeway. I've read through the FAQ again and still can't put an obvious finger on it. I've ordered a ForScan tool which is on the way. What should I be looking at first?
#2
11-01-2022, 08:28 PM
Re: 2007 FEH MPG woes? Where do I start?
Please link these resources that claim 30+ or 40+ per tank.
31c/29h for 2WD
28c/27h for 4WD
Anything significantly above that involves a combination of optimal environmental factors or obsessive driving techniques.
Make sure the gas engine is well tuned (good plugs, etc.), use LRR tires that are inflated to BETWEEN the data plate and the max on the tire, and drive conservatively. Get within 5-10% of the EPA numbers, and you're good.
31c/29h for 2WD
28c/27h for 4WD
Anything significantly above that involves a combination of optimal environmental factors or obsessive driving techniques.
Make sure the gas engine is well tuned (good plugs, etc.), use LRR tires that are inflated to BETWEEN the data plate and the max on the tire, and drive conservatively. Get within 5-10% of the EPA numbers, and you're good.
#3
11-01-2022, 09:50 PM
Re: 2007 FEH MPG woes? Where do I start?
27-30 MPG is about what I'm getting in my 2007 4WD, and I don't think it can get much better than that. For me, I’ve found that the real MPG killer is a combination of cold starts and short trips. One cold start can whack the Avg Econ meter on the dash down by 1-2 MPG, then it creeps back up after warming up as the trip progresses. I’ve typically been resetting the Avg Econ meter every 2-3 tank fills to keep it interesting while still somewhat of an average.
#5
11-02-2022, 08:57 PM
Re: 2007 FEH MPG woes? Where do I start?
Thanks for the advice, everyone. I didn't mean to post and bail but life karate kicked me in the nards since posting last. I appreciate the perspectives and I guess I'll realign mine.
I do need to change the plugs but I pulled them and saw oil, so I'll be changing the valve cover gasket soon along with the air filter, plugs, various fluids, etc. Hopefully that'll get me up closer to 30mpg
I do need to change the plugs but I pulled them and saw oil, so I'll be changing the valve cover gasket soon along with the air filter, plugs, various fluids, etc. Hopefully that'll get me up closer to 30mpg
#6
11-21-2022, 09:12 AM
Re: 2007 FEH MPG woes? Where do I start?
My 2010 FEH 2WD Limited averages about 28.5 mixed city/highway as the weather gets cold.
1) The ICE engine must start right away in the cold to light the catalyst(s) and because the current flow from the HV battery is gradually ramped up as it warms. As a result the car uses the ICE engine more on cold starts and especially on short trips during cold weather.
2) Winter blend fuels are less energetic and can be counted on to lose you another MPG or so in gas mileage.
3) Colder weather means thicker oil and more pumping losses at least initially. I run 0W-20 in the winter (Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage) instead of the 5W-20 recommended in the manual and on the filler cap. My ICE engine cranks over quickly and reliably even at 0 degrees F outside. Then I turn on the heated seats and wait for the heater to start working (usually 3-4 minutes if driving.) The EV mode will not start kicking in reliably even on downhills under 45 MPH until the HV battery warms up a little at these temperatures.
[Note that the new Maverick Hybrid pickup does not suffer as much from this because it has a liquid cooled AND heated battery, and the heat comes from an exchanger with the exhaust system, which warms up fast. That's very nice.]
4) In addition to using good oil in the engine, remember the oft-repeated advice to change the TRANSAXLE fluid (either Mercon V or LV depending on the year of your car) every 60,000 miles. Ford always said (basically) "filled for life" in the manual - but the expected lifespan of most of these cars ended several years ago or more. The fluid WILL deteriorate over time. Even small frictional losses due to marginal lubrication in the transaxle can have an effect on the efficiency. There are videos available, the transaxle has drain and fill plugs, and it can be done in the driveway with hand tools and a pump to get the new fluid in.
5) Inflate your tires properly!
6) Change your air filter if you have not in more than 20,000 miles. Vacuum out the bottom of the airbox. It is not an expensive or difficult job. However, I've noticed that where I live, the dried salt on the road always gets kicked up into dust storms during the winter and that stuff is being sucked into the air filter. Plus leaves and other debris.
Good luck. FORScan is a good thing to have. It will help you.
1) The ICE engine must start right away in the cold to light the catalyst(s) and because the current flow from the HV battery is gradually ramped up as it warms. As a result the car uses the ICE engine more on cold starts and especially on short trips during cold weather.
2) Winter blend fuels are less energetic and can be counted on to lose you another MPG or so in gas mileage.
3) Colder weather means thicker oil and more pumping losses at least initially. I run 0W-20 in the winter (Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage) instead of the 5W-20 recommended in the manual and on the filler cap. My ICE engine cranks over quickly and reliably even at 0 degrees F outside. Then I turn on the heated seats and wait for the heater to start working (usually 3-4 minutes if driving.) The EV mode will not start kicking in reliably even on downhills under 45 MPH until the HV battery warms up a little at these temperatures.
[Note that the new Maverick Hybrid pickup does not suffer as much from this because it has a liquid cooled AND heated battery, and the heat comes from an exchanger with the exhaust system, which warms up fast. That's very nice.]
4) In addition to using good oil in the engine, remember the oft-repeated advice to change the TRANSAXLE fluid (either Mercon V or LV depending on the year of your car) every 60,000 miles. Ford always said (basically) "filled for life" in the manual - but the expected lifespan of most of these cars ended several years ago or more. The fluid WILL deteriorate over time. Even small frictional losses due to marginal lubrication in the transaxle can have an effect on the efficiency. There are videos available, the transaxle has drain and fill plugs, and it can be done in the driveway with hand tools and a pump to get the new fluid in.
5) Inflate your tires properly!
6) Change your air filter if you have not in more than 20,000 miles. Vacuum out the bottom of the airbox. It is not an expensive or difficult job. However, I've noticed that where I live, the dried salt on the road always gets kicked up into dust storms during the winter and that stuff is being sucked into the air filter. Plus leaves and other debris.
Good luck. FORScan is a good thing to have. It will help you.
Last edited by AlexK; 11-21-2022 at 09:29 AM.
#7
11-21-2022, 09:33 AM
Re: 2007 FEH MPG woes? Where do I start?
My 2010 FEH 2WD Limited averages about 28.5 mixed city/highway as the weather gets cold.
1) The ICE engine must start right away in the cold to light the catalyst(s) and because the current flow from the HV battery is gradually ramped up as it warms. As a result the car uses the ICE engine more on cold starts and especially on short trips during cold weather.
2) Winter blend fuels are less energetic and can be counted on to lose you another MPG or so in gas mileage.
3) Colder weather means thicker oil and more pumping losses at least initially. I run 0W-20 in the winter (Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage) instead of the 5W-20 recommended in the manual and on the filler cap. My ICE engine cranks over quickly and reliably even at 0 degrees F outside. Then I turn on the heated seats and wait for the heater to start working (usually 3-4 minutes if driving.) The EV mode will not start kicking in reliably even on downhills under 45 MPH until the HV battery warms up a little at these temperatures.
[Note that the new Maverick Hybrid pickup does not suffer as much from this because it has a liquid cooled AND heated battery, and the heat comes from an exchanger with the exhaust system, which warms up fast. That's very nice.]
4) In addition to using good oil in the engine, remember the oft-repeated advice to change the TRANSAXLE fluid (either Mercon V or LV depending on the year of your car) every 60,000 miles. Ford always said (basically) "filled for life" in the manual - but the expected lifespan of most of these cars ended several years ago or more. The fluid WILL deteriorate over time. Even small frictional losses due to marginal lubrication in the transaxle can have an effect on the efficiency. There are videos available, the transaxle has drain and fill plugs, and it can be done in the driveway with hand tools and a pump to get the new fluid in.
5) Inflate your tires properly!
6) Change your air filter if you have not in more than 20,000 miles. Vacuum out the bottom of the airbox. It is not an expensive or difficult job. However, I've noticed that where I live, the dried salt on the road always gets kicked up into dust storms during the winter and that stuff is being sucked into the air filter. Plus leaves and other debris.
Good luck. FORScan is a good thing to have. It will help you.
1) The ICE engine must start right away in the cold to light the catalyst(s) and because the current flow from the HV battery is gradually ramped up as it warms. As a result the car uses the ICE engine more on cold starts and especially on short trips during cold weather.
2) Winter blend fuels are less energetic and can be counted on to lose you another MPG or so in gas mileage.
3) Colder weather means thicker oil and more pumping losses at least initially. I run 0W-20 in the winter (Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage) instead of the 5W-20 recommended in the manual and on the filler cap. My ICE engine cranks over quickly and reliably even at 0 degrees F outside. Then I turn on the heated seats and wait for the heater to start working (usually 3-4 minutes if driving.) The EV mode will not start kicking in reliably even on downhills under 45 MPH until the HV battery warms up a little at these temperatures.
[Note that the new Maverick Hybrid pickup does not suffer as much from this because it has a liquid cooled AND heated battery, and the heat comes from an exchanger with the exhaust system, which warms up fast. That's very nice.]
4) In addition to using good oil in the engine, remember the oft-repeated advice to change the TRANSAXLE fluid (either Mercon V or LV depending on the year of your car) every 60,000 miles. Ford always said (basically) "filled for life" in the manual - but the expected lifespan of most of these cars ended several years ago or more. The fluid WILL deteriorate over time. Even small frictional losses due to marginal lubrication in the transaxle can have an effect on the efficiency. There are videos available, the transaxle has drain and fill plugs, and it can be done in the driveway with hand tools and a pump to get the new fluid in.
5) Inflate your tires properly!
6) Change your air filter if you have not in more than 20,000 miles. Vacuum out the bottom of the airbox. It is not an expensive or difficult job. However, I've noticed that where I live, the dried salt on the road always gets kicked up into dust storms during the winter and that stuff is being sucked into the air filter. Plus leaves and other debris.
Good luck. FORScan is a good thing to have. It will help you.
1A) Discharge is not restricted as much as charge. NiMH does not react well to high current charging below 50°F, so the system becomes very asymmetrical - near full discharge is allowed, limited charge is allowed - not optimal for hybrid performance.
7) Engine is the only source of heat. If passenger heat is required or defrost is used, typical that the ICE will run at all times.
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