So. Bought my FEH last November, so I never got to try out the AC under hot conditions till now. Had the low side schrader break so replaced that, put it under vac, and recharged. Numbers haven't dropped to indicate leak.

For 2 weeks I had no refrigerant and the car never went into EV mode and the battery needle never moved. Now, with a full system, she's hopping into EV every chance she gets and the needles bouncing up and down like it should.

The problem is the cabin is still warm. It's not HOT. It's cooler than outside, but only barely. Once I'm on the freeway and going 70 then the air coming from the vents is cooooold. Also after outside temp drops to below 75 the ac blows cold

I'm not seeing any condensation under the vehicle or on the lines, but this could be because of a clogged drain(gonna poke at that after work today.)

Is this normal? From reading the thread below it seems like the batt steals my cold - which I'm fine with! I just want to know what normal functioning system should be doing.

Does the compressor have a radiator I can wash out and if so, where is it? Both fans are running fine. The compressor is compressing per the refilling last week. My next move is to check all my fuses to make sure they're not blown. I'd rather not have to break open the dash to poke the evap if I don't have to. AC lines are a beast.

 

The compressor has a compressor control valve for improved performance at idle/low speed. They commonly fail. It's discussed on this forum. It can be replaced without removing the compressor, but the system must be evacuated and recharged.

Here's the part on Rockauto:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1Vt8O4DGwJM%3D

Can be found on Amazon too.

ALL A/C is compromised when this valve fails. Recommend you NOT run cabin A/C at all to ensure the rear evap gets ALL the cooling capacity.

 

the rear battery has been running fine. does the battery not shut itself off if it's reaching high temp? Like I said, I drove 2 weeks without 134a at all and the battery just didn't run.

 

1. So you've been monitoring the battery control module(BCM)? You can confirm that the charge and discharge control limits are at max, and the temperature is in the optimal 80-90°F range, or are you just guessing? I'm assuming the latter. The battery is not a binary device. It operates on a spectrum.
2. No. It never shuts itself off, but it dramatically limits the charge and discharge control values and generally is only used to start the car. Again, it's not binary.
3. I know what you said, and you clearly don't understand the implications. The 05-09 FEH battery - arguably the best hybrid battery ever made and the 06-11 Civic Hybrid battery - unquestionably the worst hybrid battery ever made, share one thing in common. They are both made using the EXACT same Sanyo D cells. The difference between them is their cooling system. The FEH air conditions its battery. The HCH has a horrific cooling system. The recommendation was given to discourage you from further damaging your battery.

P.S. You're welcome. You asked a question, and I gave you the exact solution.

 

Wow. I asked a question. You didn't need to be an ******* about it.

 

Put a thermometer in your vents and see what temperature you are really getting.

 

How does trying to educate you make me seven asterisks?

Again, you're welcome.

 

I just did that today using a long thermometer. Set the dial to MAX on 2nd and 3rd setting.

Temp outside was around 92°F

sitting in traffic and low speed the vent read around 68°

When I hit highway speeds it dropped to 62°. When at highway speed and the rpm up to 3000 it dropped to 58°

It's not the 35° drop that the other thread below stated should occur, but it's the 20-25° that I've been told by my mechanic is 'reasonable for its age'.

I will say that since recharging my mpg has gone up to 34 from 27 so something must be working right. While he's a dick Keith is right. My former 04 HCH had a **** battery(but somehow still ran) but blew colder than a penguins pecker. If my battery is taken care of I'm not gonna complain. I just worry about burning the pack up if the systems not right.

 

I get to 40-42 degrees at the center console vents on my '10 all the time, esp. in recirc on a hot day driving on the highway. Just a datapoint. I do not have the rear evap. and therefore I want my cabin A/C as close to hell frozen over as I can get. Yours should get closer to that when it is working optimally.

 

Right? I want that too, I just don't understand the back controls enough or previous working condition to know if it's broken or not. Others with my generation seem to complain about less than arctic ac too so maybe it's just a design flaw?