You need to check your battery with a voltmeter at the terminals, the onboard from the scangauge isn't a great way to check it. If at the terminals you see anything under 12.4 it is absolutely junk. Given it is five years old I would be replacing it anyways.

I am not sure about the open loop thing, I will see if my truck jumps into open loop, I am having slight issues with mine, but it gets up to speed when it needs to, so not as severe as yours, just slightly down on power. I can check and see if mine jumps out of closed loop under full throttle when I drive it next.

From what I am seeing on your gauges I don't see a problem with the hybrid system that is obvious. A few other things I would look at are the deflection of the ammeter on the dash when you can on it. Does it go at least halfway up? Look at your battery voltage while under full load, does it drop significantly under 260volts? Look at your module delta voltage, does it increase well above a quarter volt and then spike up fast while state of charge is still above 50?

If none of those things are occuring then I would start with the basics under the hood and go from there. First, change that battery, it's five years old, it's just time unless it's reading between 12.5 and 12.7 volts at the terminals in the morning. A low battery can mess with the pcm and the pcm fires your spark plugs and takes readings from all your sensors which get their voltage from...YOUR BATTERY!!! Newer cars are much more touchy than older ones about this.

How many miles are on the truck? When were the spark plugs last changed and what kind are they? Some motors are very touchy about spark plugs, when dealing with a strange problem always shift everything back to stock? Were they changed after the valve cover gasket issue was resolved? When was the air filter changed? They're about a once a year item and the factory style is best, K&N ruins your engine and sensors despite what everyone tries to tell you, I saw the testing and was horrified I kept it on my truck as long as I did, I probably lost some compression. Speaking of compression, if you have a gauge I have the procedure to test it, the way to do it is a little strange compared to regular cars, so don't try doing it that way. When was the oil changed and with what kind and what filter? What does fwt look like while driving? That's your calculated water temperature.

Other than that look over the truck for anything obvious. Open the oil filler up, is there blowby puffing out of there? Check all your vacuum lines for leaks, tears, pinches, disconnections. Check all electric connections. For good measure take every connection apart, grease with dielectric and reassemble, just be careful as some have strange ways they come apart.


How often do you run a fuel system cleaner? What is the level of air in your tires? Are all your fluids full including the transmission, transfer case if applicable and rear end if applicable? Are any of the brakes dragging, possibly even the parking brake? Does anything feel off? A miss perhaps? Fords are very well known for missing A LOT and not throwing a code.

If you need help with any of that feel free to send me a pm with a number and I'll see how I can help.

 

I tried to send you a PM. Did you receive?

 

No, maybe you have to have a certain number of posts before you can send a private message.

I drove my yesterday since I was changing the oil and it goes into open loop somewhere in the 4k rpm range, some variance to that might be normal based on a variety of factors, so I don't think that's a red herring.

 

No, the rotor magnets are not electromagnets. Ford developed a high field strength permanenet magnet for the Escape.

 

Well, either way I don't really see that as being a fail point that would be likely or even plausible. It would be the first I have ever heard of the transaxle having the motor have a major defect.

 

I was just throwing that into the discussion because it does match the high revs part. A traditional problem area for permanent magnets was retention of magnetism. I recall the Ford advertising when this first came out touting their new magnet. Mine's an 06 and I see no indication of weakening... but it does fit the higher than normal revs symptom.

 

Any updates Ryan? I never got your PM.

 

Sorry for going silence everyone. The work monkey has got a pretty good hold on my life right now. 12 hour days for the past and current weeks including this past Saturday.

No changes to the earlier reported data points. I have not been able to get the SOC above 54.X. Multi-meter reading of the ICE 12v Battery reads 12v after sitting in the driveway over night. Planning to replace that whenever I can find time to change it out. It is a 2012 battery (not 2011 as was reported earlier).

Been running premium fuel for the past two years so engine should be clean. Spark plugs were replaced during the oil leak repairs earlier this year but the high Reving and low Battery support existed before that repair. Haven't had time to call the mechanic to check on the branch and type but he has always been a stickler for OEM parts and fluids.

Brakes (disc and pads include Parking) were replaced this fall and were checked for dragging personally.

Is there a way to force charge (plug in) the Traction Battery in the hopes for reaching full capacity? Been watching the charge needle and it will provide assistance at first but then switches to charging mode while I am still trying to get up to speed. My gut is telling me that the car is desperate to charge the traction battery.

Time is my enemy this week so I will be light on the research and responses.

 

The soc should be able to go higher than that. With it in steady state driving on the highway once the state of charge has leveled shift it into low if it isn't already and let off the gogo pedal. You should see it climbing up, if it looks like it's hitting a "wall and then your charge needle drops off we might have some more investigating to do.

I have used two different batteries and I have noticed the drop off in assist. The assist is kinda used to get the truck to the higher rpms then it backs off. The way it is designed it doesn't like to push the truck much unless you either have the engine off or you have it floored. Try flooring it and see if it holds at at least halfway for an entire 0-75 merging pull. If it doesn't we can investigate further.

 

Was able to spend some time doing the programming or the TBV and MDV indicators. After about a 40 mile drive with both city hybrid and highway interstate driving I saw the following ranges. TBV ran anywhere from 326 to 360. MDV stayed consistent at 0.05 and had momentary peaks up to 0.17. SOC never rose above 53. I'm hoping to get time to change the ICE 12 V battery over the weekend