Where in forscan can I see BCM voltage? I looked everywhere. However, I did use forscan to erase the BCM codes for low battery voltage, disable battery and transmission, and battery cooling circuit. Still no voltage at the wires in the battery pack. While plugged in after erasing the codes, car fired right up! I let it run for 20 minutes until it shut off normally. Then drove it for an hour, everything functioning normally.

After the drive, pulled codes with forscan and it was throwing code for cooling fan circuit. I removed the second battery cover to examine the fans and passenger side cooling fan would not always start, probably ten percent of the time, when vehicle started. If I just nudged it though, it would spin up and stay spinning till ignition turned off.

The fan turns easily, and just touching the blade assembly so it moves like an eight of an inch rotationally and it turns on. I removed the fan and blew out with compressed air. Cleaned the air intake assembly and air filter, reinstalled, cleared codes, no change. I suspect this could have been the cause of the vehicle shutdown, possibly battery overheated and it disabled itself.

I've ordered another fan. While driving the vehicle, the info screen on the navigation unit displays HEV status. There are 8 bars displayed which is only 2/3rds full. Couldn't get it any higher with lots of driving and regen. Is that normal or should it ever show full?

Wish forscan could show me the voltage, all I could do was perform service resets of the BCM and pull BCM and pcm codes. I'm running the latest windows version with extended license. I tried to balance the battery but it says the car must be running the whole time. But the car engine shuts off unless I keep my foot on the gas. Is that required for the whole procedure?

 

In forscan, you have to select the computer you're looking at and add the PIDs you wish to view.

The hybrid battery is part of a kinetic energy capture, storage, and release system that exists solely improve efficiency of the ICE. It is not a part of an EV.

If a hybrid battery is full, and you hit the brakes, it can't regeneratively brake.The braking energy must be bled off as heat rather than captured as chemical energy for future use.

NiMH cells become progressively more inefficient above 70% SoC and generate heat.

NiMH cells are near 100% efficient at ~50% SoC.

The car works to keep the battery around 50% during normal operation.

The fan failure was likely the primary cause as you surmised. I would avoid driving until the fan is replaced. Start and let the car idle until it naturally shuts off a couple of times a week until then.

Attempting the balance procedure with an inop fan will damage the battery or fail to execute properly.

 

Well I got replacement fan installed, and verified they both spin up correctly now. I balanced the battery using forscan and the del mod V was at .09 after driving it around with BSOC staying around 50%. As far as I can tell the battery pack is original, and has in excess of 250k miles at the moment. Battery pack voltage seems to be between 350 and as high as 380 at times while driving. Hybrid mode works, but if the car sits for 3 days in the cold, BSOC dropped to 15%. Car still started right up though, seems like it's bleeding off charge rather quickly in the cold. I'll just make sure to run it every Day or every other day until it shuts off on its own. Thanks for all the help! Hope to get another 50k miles out of it.

 

Glad to hear it. Were you ever able to get voltage on the charge leads?

 

No, and I just can't figure that one out. I had voltage on them initially, around 280v, but after installing the charger I never could get voltage from them. I plugged in the charger while running forscan and it made no difference to the battery voltage measurement. I guess if it goes flat in the future, I'll have to take apart the battery more and wire directly to the main positive and negative terminals to charge if necessary.

 

I'm thinking there's a fuse blown or a broken wire. Recommend you source a diode for future efforts.

Note that the main terminals do not have voltage on them. You'll need to attach to the live terminals on the relay as described in the Jump Start thread.

 

I'll check the fuse block next, I would love to have the charger as an option. Diode only needed on the positive right?

 

I wouldn't assume it's a fuse in the fuse box. I would assume it's an inline fuse somewhere inside the battery.

Yes. Single diode on the (+) lead.

 

Well shoot, I don't plan on taking the battery pack apart. Might be a project for a other day if issues return. Car sure runs good considering the miles. Wish I could buy another one brand new. Been eyeing the cmax as a replacement but it's not awd and I can't afford one of the newer escape hybrids. That's why I gotta get 50k more miles from this one before the wheels fall off.