What experiences do TCH owners have in winter driving? For years before buying my first hybrid, even with an automatic, I could choose to downshift (at least to a lower final gear). Never having owned a car with a CVT, I'm now (perhaps late) wondering what to expect from driving in winter:

1. Is it easier/harder to spin your wheels in snow?
   1. Does VDIM help or hinder?
2. How difficult is it to rock your way out of a bind?
3. Should I can the MPGs and get snow tires?
4. Does 'B' "gear" (quotes intentional) do anything for me in winter?

 

Hm. Don't have all your answers, but what I can say is this:

1) I had no real trouble with spinning on the roads, except at one point I noticed the traction/stability control was kicking in on this one stretch of driveway at a company I was visiting, as I was going around a curve and hitting some patches of black ice.

2) I don't remember having any real problems with regular snow or anything, but I did get frozen into a good couple of inches of solid ice one day, and had to get AAA to come in and pull me out. He tried the bar from either end and ended up having to hook the chain to get me out. I was having zero luck getting out with kitty litter, and I don't think rock salt was available anywhere in walking distance that day from so many people being stuck. Even kitty litter was kind of limited.

3) Up to you. Last winter was tough but is it often that bad in Denver? I know they never seem as prepared for serious snow as here in New England but never sure how that maps to how much they actually get normally.

4) I believe B is purely engine braking, not a low gear. Might help you if you're coming out of the mountains (vs downshifting since you can't do that here) but it's not for normal travel.

I drove all through the winter last year and my only real issue was how low my FE dropped during the depths of Feb's cold snap. :\

 

For openers -- just lightly ride your brakes for a few seconds! Braking does not quite mean the same thing in a hybrid becasue the braking is a combination of regen and friction, with the lions share being regen on the front (driven) axles. Each time you lightly tap the brakes it effectively causes a reduction in the "gear ratio" by causing MG1 to assert control on the sun gear -- about the same as downshifting a conventional transmission. The traction control will ensure that braking forces are consistent front to back, and at each tire to minimize uneven road conditions. Becasue of the split braking, break wear is not a consideration is this case

If road conditions worsen and the "downshift" is not enough for good control, you have the option to select "B", which effectively forces the same MG1 action, but on a more permanent basis (that is, MG1 will be prevented frome "upshifting the PSD as the speed increases, provided the speed is low enough that the ECU does not need to limit RPM on MG1 or the ICE).

As far as chains, do what you have always done except for one additional consideration. Most hybrids have Low Rolling Resistance (LRR) tires, which have reduced road friction and therefore reduced traction. So either be prepared to chain up earlier (I use cable chains and go to them early) or change your tires in winter to an M+S with a reasonable rolling resistance. Your mileage will drop a little, but the traction will be there when you need it in winter weather.

 

I got snow tires last winter and had no problems. I didn't try to drive on the worst days when many stores and workplaces were closed anyway.

MPG didn't take that much of a hit and a block heater would help improve FE.

Because there isn't snow on the ground all winter, "performance winter" tires rather than "studless ice & snow tires" (tirerack categories) might be a better choice. I got Blizzaks which are from the latter category though.

 

You can use B to help you slow down if you know there's ice or if you braked and you're sliding. B is engine braking (similar to a low gear) so you can use the engine to help you slow down and avoid upsetting the car's balance by braking.

 

I was concerned before I purchased my TCH because of winter driving. I was previously using a Jeep Grand Cherokee 4X4 and have to get to work in all weather. My concerns were founded, much to my embarassment, I was stuck on level parking areas, with 1-3" snow cover. Had to ask for assistance from pedestrians to help push me out. With the traction control, it doesn't allow you to rock the vehicle, it just sits there. Mileage took a 10 mpg hit in the cold weather also.

 

I do like the TCH. Once started, I noticed you can simply put it in gear and it will roll forward or backwards if you don't use the brake peddle. That might help in those icy parking lots. It's slow enough that once the slow momentum starts, simply steer across those slippery black ice spots.

 

I don't know how could you get stuck in 1-3 inches of snow, must have been something else besides the snow like ice underneath, I drove in 6-8 inches of snow without much trouble with standard Michelins but I do wish there was some type of overide for traction control to be able to spin the tires when needed. Sometimes it was little unnerving turning left at the intersection with the car moving rather slow due to snow pilling up in spots with traffic coming at you. I would say in the snow TCH is little better than rear wheel drive sedan, but not as good as regular front wheel sedan. On the other hand , once the car starts rolling the traction control really helps and you would really need to do something stupid to spin out or go out of control even on sheer ice.

 

Yeah I don't know, I live in the Boston area and deal with on-street parking most of the time at home, so every time it snows overnight I have to dig and fight my way out of parallel parking spots with snow all around. Only time I've ever had any significant problem was the deep ice frozen around my tires instance. I think I've rocked it but you're right it's pretty limited by not being able to spin the tires if you're really frozen in.

But a whole New England winter I got stuck once and that was a pretty extreme situation.

On the other hand yeah, significant FE hit with the cold. I'm hoping I've learned enough to improve it some but for all I know it'll be every bit as low this upcoming winter. One tank came out calculated at <30 mpg. Kills the lifetime FE average!

 

Yes, the FE will drop in the winter, I don't know about you guys, but winter is not my favorite time to drive no matter what and therefore I drive very little, usually with the gas prices at it's lowest, so it really doesn't hurt me that much. Just for comparison, this summer I averaged 800-1000 miles a week, in winter I shouldn't be doing more than 400 miles.