Replacing brake pads
#11
Re: Replacing brake pads
Didn't even know this type of tool existed, but I am known to build TV stands and study desks with a skill saw and fix most things around the house with a pair of plyers and screwdriver.
We only have 20K miles on our TCH so I can't offer any advice on this car, but I have done my own discs on all our cars including two Grand Caravans (93 & 02), '99 Corolla, '05 Forester, and '95 Sentra for the last 18 years or so. I've been using a large "C" clamp and a scrap piece of thin plywood to push the cylinder back in without any obvious problems - just make sure the rubber boot retracts along with the cylinder. I've done this three times since purchase on our 1999 Corolla that just got a new set at 160K miles and one time on our 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan at 40K miles that now has just short of 95K miles on it. The Corolla has front discs and the Caravan has four wheel discs. First thing I do is buy a service manual that shows how - usually around $20 at the local parts store, then spend an evening training myself.
Am I making this too simple? So far no problems - knock on wood!
We only have 20K miles on our TCH so I can't offer any advice on this car, but I have done my own discs on all our cars including two Grand Caravans (93 & 02), '99 Corolla, '05 Forester, and '95 Sentra for the last 18 years or so. I've been using a large "C" clamp and a scrap piece of thin plywood to push the cylinder back in without any obvious problems - just make sure the rubber boot retracts along with the cylinder. I've done this three times since purchase on our 1999 Corolla that just got a new set at 160K miles and one time on our 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan at 40K miles that now has just short of 95K miles on it. The Corolla has front discs and the Caravan has four wheel discs. First thing I do is buy a service manual that shows how - usually around $20 at the local parts store, then spend an evening training myself.
Am I making this too simple? So far no problems - knock on wood!
#12
Re: Replacing brake pads
Ken,
There are a LOT of late model cars that require that type of tool. The piston needs to be "screwed in" to get it to retract. I have a pair of caliper presses for the style that you have done in the past that work for single or dual piston calipers. Life (and the tools for working on cars) isn't simple anymore......
There are a LOT of late model cars that require that type of tool. The piston needs to be "screwed in" to get it to retract. I have a pair of caliper presses for the style that you have done in the past that work for single or dual piston calipers. Life (and the tools for working on cars) isn't simple anymore......
#15
Re: Replacing brake pads
Ken,
It never ends if you keep working on cars. When I started at dads garage in 1971, The Snap-on man dropped a KR-59A road chest off with everything that I needed to work on a car at that time. That box full of tools would not even fill my cart now much less the roller and side locker.
I quit wrenching for a living a long time ago but kept up with the business and I am STILL buying tools from Snap-on and Matco to keep the families cars on the road. The only reason I still work on them is that I just don't trust the young kids that are working everywhere now. Never mind that 40 years ago, I was that young kid........
The expensive part now is with the diagnostic gear required to work on cars, you can often have 5 to 6 thousand tied up before you even buy a single hand tool. If I hadn't been able to keep up over the years, there is NO way that I would buy the equipment to work on the cars we own.
It never ends if you keep working on cars. When I started at dads garage in 1971, The Snap-on man dropped a KR-59A road chest off with everything that I needed to work on a car at that time. That box full of tools would not even fill my cart now much less the roller and side locker.
I quit wrenching for a living a long time ago but kept up with the business and I am STILL buying tools from Snap-on and Matco to keep the families cars on the road. The only reason I still work on them is that I just don't trust the young kids that are working everywhere now. Never mind that 40 years ago, I was that young kid........
The expensive part now is with the diagnostic gear required to work on cars, you can often have 5 to 6 thousand tied up before you even buy a single hand tool. If I hadn't been able to keep up over the years, there is NO way that I would buy the equipment to work on the cars we own.
#16
Re: Replacing brake pads
When the time comes it sounds like I might be having someone do it. Any idea why the change? Did they gain anything besides challenging us DYI people to learn something new and buy more tools?
Concerning which brake pad to use I personally stay away from the OEM stuff, especially what came on the TCH. The pads now give off that black power that shows up shortly after washing the car and looks bad until the next wash. I've used Wagner ceramics the last five years or so and they don't seem to give the black power off plus they last a long time. Our 1999 Corolla went 80K miles on the last set so I will stick with them.
Concerning which brake pad to use I personally stay away from the OEM stuff, especially what came on the TCH. The pads now give off that black power that shows up shortly after washing the car and looks bad until the next wash. I've used Wagner ceramics the last five years or so and they don't seem to give the black power off plus they last a long time. Our 1999 Corolla went 80K miles on the last set so I will stick with them.
#17
Re: Replacing brake pads
Ken,
Other than the fact that some calipers require the "screw in" piston, they are the same as the ones you are used to. If your brake job requires a caliper repair however, you will need some other equipment "just in case". A power bleeder comes in handy and if the ABS system actuator gets air in it, you will need a bi-directional diagnostic tool to cycle the actuator to get it to bleed correctly.
I agree with your thoughts on pads as I have been using Wagner ceramic pads on the family’s cars for several years. They wear well, don't give off a lot of brake dust and are reasonably priced.
Other than the fact that some calipers require the "screw in" piston, they are the same as the ones you are used to. If your brake job requires a caliper repair however, you will need some other equipment "just in case". A power bleeder comes in handy and if the ABS system actuator gets air in it, you will need a bi-directional diagnostic tool to cycle the actuator to get it to bleed correctly.
I agree with your thoughts on pads as I have been using Wagner ceramic pads on the family’s cars for several years. They wear well, don't give off a lot of brake dust and are reasonably priced.
#18
Re: Replacing brake pads
I bought a set of front rotors, drilled and slotted, plus a set of ceramic front pads for $200 from R-1 Racing in La Habra, California. It was the best thing I ever did to that car. And I can say that after probably 8 months of use. You will have to bed-in the pads, either slowly over week or so, or quickly with a couple aggressive haul-downs from freeway speed. But after that, they perform phenomenally well. And yes it's true, the ceramic pads leave far less visible dust on the wheels. This is a big thing for me, because I actually pull my wheels off to clean them, typically when rotating tires, sometimes sooner.
#19
Re: Replacing brake pads
I bought a brake piston tool set for $20 at Harbor Freight. Says it fits Toyota and several other makes. Hopefully it is what I need when I get into the brakes. No more that it will be used it should be sufficient.
#20
Re: Replacing brake pads
Is there anything different in changing a hybrids car break pad versus a regukar car?? I need to change my rear disk and i am use to do it on other cars but i figured i should ask as i have never touched an hybrid before...
Any help would be appreciated.
Any help would be appreciated.