Insufficient Clear Coat? Easy Scratches
#41
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I have an appointment with the dealer service area tomorrow.
I intend to find out if they agree that the paint seems soft. Actually the only area I've found a problem was on the bumpers. I have been maticulous with the car so far, and the rear bumber has 2 minor chips, and a scratch. As I was feeling the scratch with my fingernail, I could easily remove more paint. Not one car that I've ever own, have I been able to do that.
The paint on the metal of the care seems to adhere fine overlooking the orange peel on the drivers door.
I might sound crazy, but my intent is too keep this car for a while.
I intend to find out if they agree that the paint seems soft. Actually the only area I've found a problem was on the bumpers. I have been maticulous with the car so far, and the rear bumber has 2 minor chips, and a scratch. As I was feeling the scratch with my fingernail, I could easily remove more paint. Not one car that I've ever own, have I been able to do that.
The paint on the metal of the care seems to adhere fine overlooking the orange peel on the drivers door.
I might sound crazy, but my intent is too keep this car for a while.
#42
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Cool car, I miss those. I can't say I have seen one in 4 or 5 years now.
Sean
#43
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I have the 2009 Black TCH and trying to take care of the paint on it has become a part time job.
In the 2 months I've had it I've spent over $500 on equipment and Meguiar's products for the paint. I also took a one day class at Meguiar's on proper detailing.
Yesterday I got my first chance to use my G110 DA polisher on the paint. I finished polishing and waxing the hood. Used my dual xenon light (it shows up swirls and scratches you normally can only see in direct sunlight) and rubbed my index finger across the paint. It left a scratch in the clearcoat! I couldn't believe it! I tried to polish it out with a microfiber cloth and some Quick Detailer spray, but it will have to be buffed out.
I can't believe how soft the clear coat is. This car is going to be impossible to keep swirl and scratch free.
Mike
In the 2 months I've had it I've spent over $500 on equipment and Meguiar's products for the paint. I also took a one day class at Meguiar's on proper detailing.
Yesterday I got my first chance to use my G110 DA polisher on the paint. I finished polishing and waxing the hood. Used my dual xenon light (it shows up swirls and scratches you normally can only see in direct sunlight) and rubbed my index finger across the paint. It left a scratch in the clearcoat! I couldn't believe it! I tried to polish it out with a microfiber cloth and some Quick Detailer spray, but it will have to be buffed out.
I can't believe how soft the clear coat is. This car is going to be impossible to keep swirl and scratch free.
Mike
#44
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Mike, I remember reading that when a car is new off the assembly line, the paint needs time to fully harden and that you shouldn't have it washed or waxed for the first few months. How new is your car?
Perhaps someone else has more information.
Perhaps someone else has more information.
#45
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Maybe someone more knowledgeable can add more information.
#46
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Mikejl,
Welcome to the world of hard core detailing. You might want to check out autogeek and autopia for hints, help and other goodies to buy. You have already learned that black is not a color but a part time job (but looks soooo good when clean).
The paint is baked at the assembly plant and should be good to go when you take delivery. A re-paint or repair might be soft at first and then get harder but the factory paint is already as hard as it is going to get.
You fingers can pick up minute bits of grit and can scratch the paint easily as you now know. I try to polish with nitrile gloves and then remove them to check anything involving the paint. You can cut back on the swirls and scratches by using proper washing and waxing techniques but you will eventually need to polish no matter how careful you are.
Almost all cars are now painted with a water based urethane paint that looks good but is very soft. It chips real easy, scratches even easier and is a pain to polish without leaving holograms behind if you are using a rotary. With your DA G110 (or a Porter Cable) it will make the polishing easier and is a great way to get started.
Welcome to the world of hard core detailing. You might want to check out autogeek and autopia for hints, help and other goodies to buy. You have already learned that black is not a color but a part time job (but looks soooo good when clean).
The paint is baked at the assembly plant and should be good to go when you take delivery. A re-paint or repair might be soft at first and then get harder but the factory paint is already as hard as it is going to get.
You fingers can pick up minute bits of grit and can scratch the paint easily as you now know. I try to polish with nitrile gloves and then remove them to check anything involving the paint. You can cut back on the swirls and scratches by using proper washing and waxing techniques but you will eventually need to polish no matter how careful you are.
Almost all cars are now painted with a water based urethane paint that looks good but is very soft. It chips real easy, scratches even easier and is a pain to polish without leaving holograms behind if you are using a rotary. With your DA G110 (or a Porter Cable) it will make the polishing easier and is a great way to get started.
#47
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Mikejl,
Welcome to the world of hard core detailing. You might want to check out autogeek and autopia for hints, help and other goodies to buy. You have already learned that black is not a color but a part time job (but looks soooo good when clean).
I checked out those websites, good information. Have you checked out Meguiar's on-line?
The paint is baked at the assembly plant and should be good to go when you take delivery. A re-paint or repair might be soft at first and then get harder but the factory paint is already as hard as it is going to get.
Good to know.
You fingers can pick up minute bits of grit and can scratch the paint easily as you now know. I try to polish with nitrile gloves and then remove them to check anything involving the paint. You can cut back on the swirls and scratches by using proper washing and waxing techniques but you will eventually need to polish no matter how careful you are.
For washing I'm using the 2 bucket technique with "Grit Guards", but you are right, no matter how careful I am, scratches are going to happen.
Almost all cars are now painted with a water based urethane paint that looks good but is very soft. It chips real easy, scratches even easier and is a pain to polish without leaving holograms behind if you are using a rotary. With your DA G110 (or a Porter Cable) it will make the polishing easier and is a great way to get started.
Welcome to the world of hard core detailing. You might want to check out autogeek and autopia for hints, help and other goodies to buy. You have already learned that black is not a color but a part time job (but looks soooo good when clean).
I checked out those websites, good information. Have you checked out Meguiar's on-line?
The paint is baked at the assembly plant and should be good to go when you take delivery. A re-paint or repair might be soft at first and then get harder but the factory paint is already as hard as it is going to get.
Good to know.
You fingers can pick up minute bits of grit and can scratch the paint easily as you now know. I try to polish with nitrile gloves and then remove them to check anything involving the paint. You can cut back on the swirls and scratches by using proper washing and waxing techniques but you will eventually need to polish no matter how careful you are.
For washing I'm using the 2 bucket technique with "Grit Guards", but you are right, no matter how careful I am, scratches are going to happen.
Almost all cars are now painted with a water based urethane paint that looks good but is very soft. It chips real easy, scratches even easier and is a pain to polish without leaving holograms behind if you are using a rotary. With your DA G110 (or a Porter Cable) it will make the polishing easier and is a great way to get started.
Mike
#49
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Mikejl,
I use a lot of Meguiar's product (my favorites include #105 for a compound and #39 for heavy duty plastic cleaning). I also use their Gold Class as a backup if I run out of Poorboys SSS. I just hope they don't change after being bought by 3M....
Don't forget that when washing the car, follow the body lines instead of circular motions. With two buckets and grit guards, you are way ahead of the pack already.
test54,
You know you are getting too crazy when you start debating the merits of two carnauba waxes that cost over $75 a tin, buy microfiber just to see if it really is softer than the Cobra towels you have or start thinking about a DA Flex machine even though you already own a PC 9424 and a Makita rotary.
The wife almost had me commited when she looked out and saw me washing the engine bay of the TCH down with a water hose and my kids think I need to see a therapist before I spend their inheritance....
I use a lot of Meguiar's product (my favorites include #105 for a compound and #39 for heavy duty plastic cleaning). I also use their Gold Class as a backup if I run out of Poorboys SSS. I just hope they don't change after being bought by 3M....
![Confused](https://electricvehicleforums.com/forums/images/smilies/emotikons/confused.gif)
Don't forget that when washing the car, follow the body lines instead of circular motions. With two buckets and grit guards, you are way ahead of the pack already.
test54,
You know you are getting too crazy when you start debating the merits of two carnauba waxes that cost over $75 a tin, buy microfiber just to see if it really is softer than the Cobra towels you have or start thinking about a DA Flex machine even though you already own a PC 9424 and a Makita rotary.
The wife almost had me commited when she looked out and saw me washing the engine bay of the TCH down with a water hose and my kids think I need to see a therapist before I spend their inheritance....