This really bugs me:

At the end of my commute, with a green battery (7 or 8 bars), a hot engine, I have about 20 blocks with 4 stop signs to traverse.

The first time I slow down, the ICE stops and the FE indicator goes down to the best indication.

However, when I accelerate (the ICE comes on), and I get up to 30 mph and coast to get the ICE to stop, it doesn't stop! FE indicator goes to 60, and when I get to the stop sign, FE goes to ZERO.

When this happens, the engine is running, but the NAV energy display does not show the engine running, and no arrows are going to/from anywhere!

When it gets into this mode, it is very difficult to get out of.

I either have to

1) Wait about 15-20 seconds at a full STOP, and the ICE will stop. or
2) Accelerate to above 42 mph and coast back down to 30 mph speed limit.

Neither of these is a good option. 1) annoys the cars behind me, and 2) exceeds the speed limit.

I can't see why the ICE wants to continue running: The SOC is full or nearly full, the engine is warm, the AC is on ECO, the catalytic converter is obviously hot from all the highway driving....

I've only had it for a month, but other than this, I've gotten pretty good at coaxing EXCELLENT from the MFD.

 

I've noticed this too sometimes. Things I'd try:

1. AC is off or set to ECO.
2. Accelerate briskly (10-15mpg), then completely take your foot off the pedal while under 40mph, don't just back off to coast. Or back off over about a second or two then completely release. After about 2-5 seconds, the ICE should shut down. If it doesn't, try shifting to N, then back to D, with your foot off the pedal. After the MPG drops into EV mode, then you can slowly inch back on the pedal to maintain speed.

If your TCH absolutely refuses to drop into EV, then just pulse and glide, and don't stop for too long at the stop signs. Your FE won't suffer that much.

 

I've noticed the same problem with our week-old TCH, and have been searching for an answer.

I've also heard that switching to park temporarily while stopped (obviously!) will clear the "problem", but if Neutral works that would be more convenient!

I read that if the battery is hot the car might not go into EV. That could also be an issue. I've noticed that when it happens to me I've done a long highway drive followed by some EV before accelerating after waiting for a light change caused EV to not occur. Seems like a likely high temp situation.

In any case, "ignore it" might be the best advice. It doesn't have that much of an effect on the overall mileage, it seems.

 

Some are installing switches like they have on a few in Japan, find the rite wires and bingo! be sure to hide it behind the dash lol. PS only problem is you got to know when to turn the sucker on again to avoid dead battery.

 

I've read about the EV switches that are on the Priuses in Japan and Europe, but haven't heard about it for the TCH. In the case of the Prius, Toyota says that it will not increase overall FE. It's only really convenient for moving short distances when the engine would otherwise have to run (such as moving a cold car in within a parking garage).

 

I've mentioned something like this problem, having trouble getting to EV mode with a warm engine and full battery, and someone gave me a tip that's made a big difference.

At your stop if you force the car to idle for something like 5-8 seconds by goosing the accelerator (for me this often results in it just cutting out a second later so no idling happens) or by keeping your foot on the brake and giving it just enough gas to make the ICE run... When you reach that 5-8 second range and let it go, when the ICE stops you are back in "full hybrid mode", where the car will slide freely back and forth from EV to ICE. Made my life much happier (though I'd still like one of those EV buttons!).

I was also told (by SPL):
"If your TCH isn't yet ready to shut its ICE down and go into EV mode, you can force it to do so by taking your foot off the accelerator and briefly shifting into 'B' (it's perfectly safe to do this, even at speed) and then back into 'D' after you hear the ICE rev up ("engine braking"). This procedure will put the TCH into "fuel-cut" mode — the ICE is spinning powered by MG1 with electricity from MG2, but using no fuel — and it will enter EV mode when your speed drops below ~64 km/h (~40 mph)."

 

I originally posted this as a new thread, and now realize that I should have posted it here.I carefully read this thread, and can't believe how old this problem is, and that no solution is forthcoming. Hasn't Toyota been informed of this situation? Do we really have to go through all those crazy steps to achieve something that should happen by itself?

 

Perhaps there was no solution because there wasn't a problem. #1 priority is low emissions and often that doesn't mean shutting off the ICE.

After 4 years of ownership, I just enjoy the car and don't try to second guess it.

 

Point well taken!

But how could the engine not shutting down after 5 minutes with the car not moving contribute to low emissions?

PS: I am serious, not trying to be sarcastic!

 

Why do you think this is a problem? It could be many reasons the ICE needs to run, when you think it shouldn't. Some that come to mind and this would be in summer, winter has it's own reasons, mainly with cabin heat/engine/ CC related. But from the top of my head I remember few like battery calibration (computer needs to top off battery to calibrate it's memory to know what level it is charged to when you drive around, I don't know what the logic is to choose the time to do so, but probably it's never a good time.). Also full charge could be necessary to level off all cells, some cells could take charge better than others and otherwise would never get full charge, after a while there could be large difference between battery modules level of charge.
Immediately after high speed driving, shutting down the engine will create heat soaking, some parts will get very hot, due to no water circulation. I know my TCH won't shut down ICE for few minutes in such case, but rather keep it at idle to dissipate heat first. Now, when you turn the car off, there is no choice, but when the Ice turns on and off as often as in TCH on it's own, this could affect the engine, so I would imagine this is programmed into computer on purpose as well. There may be other reasons as well which I'm not aware off, But you have to remember, Toyota is giving 150k and 10??? yrs warranty on the battery in some US states (CA and NY included) so they really need to be very gentle on the batteries and computer programming reflects that, I think. BTW, I never had NiMH batteries last 10 yrs in any appliances I ever owned and I use them often from RC model cars, toys to shavers, radios etc. They really pushing the battery endurance to the limits and I think part of this " issue" of ICE running more than you think it should is to protect those batteries. For example the batteries could be overheating and they need relief from ICE and electric motors to lower the current from batt. pack and let them cool off.