I've tried searching with no luck, my 08 camry has the check VSC light on with abs, skid and e brake lights also on (no check engine). Ive had this once before after changing the rear brake pads. I wire jumped the diagnostics port & it clearec the code. that was about 8 months ago. Now the wire jump will not clear the code except it comes up VSC 43. Any idea what this might mean? the car is functioning normal. Only thing I can think of ks we've had a brutal winter hear in southern ontario and a large build up ofsnow and ice may have affected one of the sensors that plug into the brakes? I removed the rear tire and broke off what I would say is about 10-20 lbs of snow and ice, thanks.

Ryan

 

Found this so far:

43 means "capacitor malfunction" and the suspect areas include the brake control power supply, ABS #1 fuse, ABS #2 fuse, ABS #3 fuse, or the associated wiring harness.

Therefore I suggest that you check the above-mentioned relay and the fuses. If all are good, you might consider whether your 12V battery is marginal. If so, replace it now. Then clear the skid control DTC and see if any skid control ECU warning lights come back after you've driven the car.

Read more: http://priuschat.com/threads/vsc-and...#ixzz2tGUW6FeC

 

You need to have someone with a GOOD scanner read the code. There are 15 different codes that can set a "43" and you are shooting in the dark without getting the right one to start with.

DTC C1243/43 - Acceleration Sensor Stuck Malfunction (with 3 INF codes)
DTC B1443/43 - Air Outlet Damper Control Servo Motor Circuit
DTC C1377/43 - Capacitor Malfunction (with 9 INF codes that define the problem)
DTC B1660/43 - Passenger Airbag ON / OFF Indicator Circuit Malfunction
DTC C2143/43 - Transmitter ID3 Error

The INF codes are checks in the sub systems that will help pinpoint where you need to diagnose the problem. The days of pulling codes from wire jumping are long past. invest in a low end scanner for basic info and find someone with a good, pro level scanner for the items a generic scanner will not read correctly.

 

thank you for your responce! a side note,on my way home from work this morning all the lights and "check VSC" went out and then came back on about 10 mins later.


Ryan

 

Turns out it is a rr wheel bearing & hub assembly part # TO42450-48011. parts and labour $431.35. Seems a bit steep I thought.

 

List from Toyota on that hub and bearing assembly is $471.99 plus .9 hours of labor

You could also get this one for $176.99 plus pay a local tech to install for about $75 or do it yourself as it is a very simple job:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...3338&ppt=C0337

Do you understand now about why you need a scanner instead of using a wire jumper? If you do the work yourself, you would be able to get a fairly nice low end unit that will pay for itself in one or two times using it from the savings alone. You could also clear the codes once you have it fixed.

 

Once again GeorgiaHybrid, thanks for the responce!! I most def will invest in a good scan tool. And yes I plan to do the work myself. I like many am changing the water pump this weekend. Great write up by the way!

Ryan

 

jib, asked at toyotanation and ask here. How in the world did you figure it's hub bearing?

David, thanks for pitching in, man!

 

Real simple on this one...

1) Remove the right rear wheel
2) Remove the 2 caliper bolts and brake line bracket bolt and suspend the caliper with wire/twist tie/etc
3) Remove the rear disc
4) Disconnect the wheel speed sensor
5) Remove the 4 bolts holding on the hub assembly and remove it.

Install:
1) Install the hub and bearing with 4 new bolts and torque them to 59 ft-lbs
2) Connect the speed sensor connector (don't twist it in the process)
3) Install the rear disc over the studs.
4) Install the caliper assembly and torque the two caliper bolts to 46 ft-lbs and the brake line bracket bolt to 14 ft-lbs
5) Install the rear wheel and torque to 76 ft-lbs.

Big thing to remember, make sure the hub you buy has the sensor ring as some of them do not (the one in the link above does have the sensor and ring, look at the back picture). All in, I would be surprised if it takes more than 45 minutes to an hour to complete and even less with a lift and power tools. You might need to use something (I have a caliper spreader) to get enough clearance to slide the caliper back on the rotor.

 

That's the reason I wanted him to get the codes read, most of the time it's a bad wheel speed sensor that causes this issue and a new hub and bearing assembly usually comes with the sensor. You can replace just the sensor but you need a good vise and a GOOD bearing splitter to remove the sensor from the hub and a hydraulic press to reinstall it. I happen to have that here at the house but I suspect that not many on this board have that much equipment in their home shop. I just happen to be stupid and like nice tools..... Even worse, I have three welders, torches, presses and a Bridgeport mill in mine.

Did I mention how stupid I am???