Synthetic Oil change miles don't jive
#21
Re: Synthetic Oil change miles don't jive
I just used a Fram filter from Wallyworld. Just use the same one used in the 2.5L non hybrid. I found the easiest (for me) method was to jack up the car from the passenger side, remove the passenger front wheel, and access the filter right through the wheel well. The drain plug takes a 15mm socket. The change uses a full 5 quarts.
I appreciate the info !! The idea to get to the drain through the passenger wheel well is great!
#22
Re: Synthetic Oil change miles don't jive
I recently started seeing some mpg improvements over last years numbers. Not sure if it is due to synthetic oil, or perhaps I have just become a better hybrid driver.
#23
Re: Synthetic Oil change miles don't jive
Proof of Global Warming? LOL
#24
Synthetic vs. non-synth
So, I get free oil changes for life at the dealer I bought my 08 NAH from. They'll put in the regular non-synth 0W30 every 4K miles under this plan.
Questions:
1) They said they'd install MY synthetic oil if I buy it and take it in. What brands do you guys recommend that can be bought at local superstores? What are you paying per quart? How many quarts are needed?
2) Should I go with synth every 4K miles (assuming I'm paying just for the oil)? Or, would people still recommend going longer between changes?
3) Does anyone have any concrete data on savings (FE or otherwise) in the NAH when using synth 0W30 vs. the non-synth?
Thanks!
Eph
Questions:
1) They said they'd install MY synthetic oil if I buy it and take it in. What brands do you guys recommend that can be bought at local superstores? What are you paying per quart? How many quarts are needed?
2) Should I go with synth every 4K miles (assuming I'm paying just for the oil)? Or, would people still recommend going longer between changes?
3) Does anyone have any concrete data on savings (FE or otherwise) in the NAH when using synth 0W30 vs. the non-synth?
Thanks!
Eph
#25
Re: Synthetic Oil change miles don't jive
I hear Mobil 1 is good, easy to find, and not super expensive.
I was told by a Nissan tech that he thinks it's fine to wait about 6000 miles when using a synthetic, but it's a good idea to check all the fluid levels and air filter every 3-4k.
I was told by a Nissan tech that he thinks it's fine to wait about 6000 miles when using a synthetic, but it's a good idea to check all the fluid levels and air filter every 3-4k.
#27
Re: Synthetic Oil change miles don't jive
I just changed the oil in the NAH myself. I lifted the car from both the left and right sides on the front (about 5 inches). I just slid under the car and uncrewed the drain plug, followed by the oil filter about 15 minutes later after the oil drained. I didn't need to remove the tire, though I can see that it would have been easier if I did as the filter is right behind the front passenger tire, facing towards it.
BTW, my drain plug is 14mm. 15 feels really loose over the nut, and the 14 is snug. Not sure how theres a difference between your drain plug and mine, but mines definitely a 14mm.
Overall it wasn't messy at all, even the oil filter can be left to drain in a controlled way if you just unscrew it slowly right to the point where it starts to drain. I didn't need any tools for the oil filter - I was able to unscrew it by hand.
Overall, the process is not hard or messy, but I was a little nervous while under the car. I think next time I will try to just drive the right front wheel over a curb and then get under the car. That might save around 30 minutes and its also a lot safer with the wheels on solid groud :-)
#28
Re: Synthetic Oil change miles don't jive
Steve
#29
Re: Synthetic Oil change miles don't jive
:-)
Do you use any of the special tools for screwing/unscrewing the oil filter? Like I mentioned I was able to do mine by hand, though I am not sure if its supposed to be that loose.
#30
Re: Synthetic Oil change miles don't jive
I have 3 or 4 strap type wrenches here, and a few that fit over the end of a filter and use a 1/4 ratchet drive. I'm not sure which one I used on the Altima.
But I don't think you should be able to loosen it by hand, even if you only hand tighten a filter, it usually requires a wrench to get it off. Just make sure the gasket comes off with the filter. Sometimes on the first filter change, the gasket will stick to the block. You don't notice it until you have put on a new filter (now you have 2 gaskets) and start the engine. Then, oil everywhere!
But I don't think you should be able to loosen it by hand, even if you only hand tighten a filter, it usually requires a wrench to get it off. Just make sure the gasket comes off with the filter. Sometimes on the first filter change, the gasket will stick to the block. You don't notice it until you have put on a new filter (now you have 2 gaskets) and start the engine. Then, oil everywhere!