Originally Posted by Double-Trinity

I have experimented with this a bit myself. I would recommend rev-matching before re-engaging. First before going into neutral, ease off the gas and let the RPMs settle into the highest gear-ratio they're willing to go. Let's say you're at 1600rpms, before you re-engage, rev the engien up to just under that number of RPMs then pull it back into drive. If you do that, the tranny/wheel speed mismatch shoudln't be any more strenuous than what happens when you come out of auto-stop.

One problem I have heard about for netural costing in automatics is that the wheels spin the gears etc, but that since the transmission fluid pumps are powered by the engine, the parts run the risk of overheating. Thi shoudl not be a problem on the Honda CVTs though as the transmission's belt and pulleys are on the engine-side of the clutch, rather than on the wheel side, so they will onyl spin at the engine's idle speed rather than being spun by the wheels.

Ultimeatly however I believe the whole desire to shift into Neutral is cauesd by a major design flaw from Honda's battery charging algorithms-- they attemtp to charge the battery pack every time you let go of the gas, when they really only should charge when the driver wants to (pressing the brake pedal, or using an "engine brake" switch on the shift lever like on the Prius) making costing essentially impossible without going into neutral. On the rare occasions I've had the battery pack completely filled though, there is almsot no perceptible difference between in-gear, and neutral at anything below about 45mph, since 3 of 4 cylinders are shut down there's very minimal engine braking -- almost all of the engine braking effect is from undesired charging.