Figured out the problem after replacing both engine mounts with no significant change - the "block" (bracket) underneath the transmission mount had shifted, and only one of the bolts was actually going through it. The other bolt was threaded into the body, but the block was actually spun inward so it was hitting against the engine. I saw it from underneath the car, a shiny "bolt hole" just looking down at me.... Never saw a car with a floating piece that acts as a spacer between trans mount and frame, but hey never owned a hybrid either. I guess to sum it up "installed it wrong" was the answer. Runs like a quiet wet dream now.

 

I wish I had thought of that. I noticed it moved during removal, so I was careful to align it. I hate my 40's memory...

Glad you got it sorted. Please keep the emissions outside the vehicle.

 

What a coincidence!

I was looking to get this part installed at the local mechanic, but they threw me a ridiculous number. Since I'm fairly well versed on fixing my motorcycle, it doesn't look too horrible. But I have a couple questions if anybody would be willing to help (thank you for the videos!)

1) Do you need to support the engine from underneath with a jack or anything when installing?
2) Are there any special tools you need? I see an extension is necessary for some of those bolts really far in there.
3) Scale of difficulty for transmission mount replacement, 1 -10?

I'm located in an apartment with a car port, and don't nearly have as many tools at my disposal as you do. However it seems fairly straightforward, and the price I was quoted was pretty ridiculous ($500+).

Thank you for the help!

 

1) yes
2) no, but a cordless impact is really nice to have ($60 version from Harbor Freight)
3) 8 - due to the need to remove the fusebox and a lot of stuff around.

Sockets with short and long extensions and wrenches are all I can remember needing.

You'll want to cut back the electrical tape at the back of the fuse box cover and cut the zip tie at the harness, so diagonal cutters too.

...and the floor jack of course.

I do all my work in my driveway because I'm a hoarder and my garage is filled with stuff, so I expect you will have no issues in a carport.

 

Hate to revive this thread from a few weeks ago, but I'm finally getting around to replace this.

I'm not 100% sure on the jack placement; would anybody be able to shed some light? Also, I imagine it's beneficial to remove the panels from under the car, right?

Thank you all for the help!

 

IIRC, simply dropping the front like one can do for an oil change is sufficient.

Anywhere that looks solid. Place a block of wood between the jack and whatever you're lifting. Note that you're just holding it in position supporting the weight of the engine, NOT jacking the whole car up.

I did the tranny side a few weeks back. Engine side this weekend.

Steve

 

Thanks a lot for the quick reply, Steve!

Noted. After looking at Joe's videos for replacing this mount, some of those bolts look really difficult to get to, and I was worried about dropping them. I'll give it a go and report back in a few hours or so.

... now to get over the mental barrier of moving the high voltage lines....

 

Once 12V is disconnected, pack is isolated. You won't be touching any actual HV connections, just moving the cable.