Today, I brought my car to the garage to check the engine mount. He told me that we need to replace the 3 engine mounts: front, back and transmission, and it would cost $810.
He opened the hood, and **** the gear to back, then I saw the engine tilting.
He showed me the front engine mount, but didn't lift the car to show me the other 2 mounts.
Do we really need to change all 3 mounts? or only the front one?

 

Not sure what you're talking about "front" and "bottom two". There are 3 mounts: bottom, left and right. The left and right support the entire weight of the engine/CVT. The bottom prevents torsion.

If the $810 is the price for genuine Honda parts, it's a good deal. If he's using aftermarket parts, he's making a lot of money off of you.

Both of my HCH2 needed all mounts replaced.

EDIT: A common indication of the need for replacement mounts is vibration when in "D" and stationary. This typically goes away when you're driving.

 

When I'm at the red light in D, I don't feel vibrations. In 2 oil changes at 2 different locations, they told me about the engine mount.
When I went to the garage, he started up the car and put the gear to backward, and I saw the engine tilting front and back. I also saw the front left mount moving as the engine was moving.
He said that the price was for dealer parts.
Can I use aftermarket engine mounts or does it have to be Honda?

 

If the rubber is visibly cracked, they should be replaced. I used aftermarket.

The engine tilting front and back is likely the lower brace. That one is cheap and can be replaced in about 10 minutes. I would try that first.

https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...-engine-mounts

Parts 4, 5 and 7. You should be able to find a very cheap aftermarket torque rod:


Engine side mount:


CVT side mount:

 

Thanks, I will choose aftermarket then.

 

I found another garage who will replace 1 Honda mount for only $150. Then, he told me he'll see if we need to replace another mount. That's cheap compared to the previous garage who would replace all 3 mounts for $810. I think garage price depends wether if it's located in an expensive or poor area. I don't mind going in a poor area for my car as long as I don't live there.

 

Change all three, if one's bad the others are on the way. BTW, this is not a terribly hard DIY job if you remove the plastic underbody panel and use a floor jack with a block of wood to raise/support the engine while you change each mount. The one on driver's side is harder because there's a lot of stuff above it that has to be disconnected and moved out of the way.

The torque strut underneath is easiest of all, two bolts into the bottom of the engine and one big one that attaches it to the crossmember.