I'll be coming up on my first oil change soon and am concerned about removing the under-tray to get at things. What tool should I use to remove the pegs that attach it? Are they likely to break? How difficult are they to re-install?

Also, for those who change their own oil, I read somewhere that I should pre-fill the oil filter before installing it. Is this something most people do? Is it necessary?

Thanks --
Doug

 

There are 2 10mm bolts to remove and a bunch of plastic fasteners that just pop out with a flat bladed screwdriver, and push back in by hand.

You should get some ramps to make it easier to get under the car. When you get your oil filter be sure to get a new drain bolt crush washer. There is nothing special to installing the oil filter other than lubricate the O ring on the filter with a little oil, and put in on by hand as tight as you can. Don't use the wrench to install it.

There are pretty good instructions in the owners manual.

 

Be sure to pick up a few extra plastic pins from your local dealership when you get the crush washer. The springs inside them have a way of becoming misaligned if you don't place the screwdriver just right as you lift them out. Also seconding Gary on the filter... just enough to lube the outside ring, and hand-tightening should be plenty. No need to dump oil into it before installing, or to crank down with a wrench (though getting the cap adapter makes taking old ones off a LOT easier )

 

I have a set of ramps and my HCH bumper/airdam hits the ramp surface as soon as I start to drive up them. I guess I will need a new set that has less of an angle. Even when I put it up on jackstands, I cannot get the plastic fairing out of the way (I disconnect the front of it and the front of the fairing on the bottom lowers.)

Because I cannot get the car up high enough, the plastic fairing is in the way of putting my oil-change tray under the filter.

Has anyone else had to get a different set of ramps or a jack with a much higher lift to enable them to get under there and work?

 

You could try a 2x6 2' long in front of each ramp. That my get the car high enough too clear the ramp!

 

I had the same problem with my ramps. The air dam would hit the ramps before raising the car high enough. PLEASE don't make the same mistake as me. I used to have a Corvette years ago, and used to place some 2X4 wood pieces along the ramps and it would raise it enough to clear the ramps. Well, I tried this with my Honda a few weeks ago. Just as I cleared the top of the ramps, I heard a huge noise. When I got out to check...I realized that this was my first front wheel drive car, and it had shot the wood backwards across the garage. My car fell and crimped both sides of the spoiler. I was so upset!!! I got a mobile repair company to come and fix it a couple days later. Cost me $300...which was a lot, but less than I originally thought.

I ended up backing my Honda up the same ramps. Although it still come close, it clears the tail. I then jacked up the front and put it on jack stands. First time I ever wish that I took a car in to have the oil changed...but I learned my lesson.

 

No scraping and very strong!


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With my first change (last fall) I removed ALL the pins and completely removed the under cover. Some of the pins were hard to remove... dirt / grit made the plastic hard to slide out. I did break one, which I replaced (temporarily) with a simple "christmas tree" trim clip. I've since purchased five new clips for future changes (three of the longer ones, two of the shorter ones.) Part numbers for the two clips are: 91505-S9A-003 and 91506-S9A-003

The oil filter wasn't any problem to install. I always fill the filter part way with fresh oil.

No other issues with the oil change. I did have to put the car on four jack stands to rotate the tires. Can't use a ramp for that!

My next change is due soon. I'm getting the 15% warning light now. I'm all ready... I've got my clips, six oil filters and six gallons of Honda 0W-20 oil sitting in my garage, ready for all my future changes!

 

Another way to rotate the tires (front/back), is to simply lift the car from the front jack point using a hydraulic jack.

The car will be balanced on the front point, and both wheels pretty much come off the ground at the same height. This is much faster than putting the car up on stands. And as long as this is done on level ground, and you don't get under the car, it is perfectly safe.

 

I did it just that way on my first tire rotation. It was a little scary with it balancing on three points... so I decided to buy the other two jack stands. I might not even lower it onto the new stands, but I'll have 'em there for safety!