The trouble code i got from scanguage was c-1555 does anyone know what that means? I could not find any info on it in the service manual.
For the RPM problem, I had the engine relearn the idle speed. This lowered my FE significantly, but the problem is almost all the way gone. If anyone has the time, would you be able to see what happens when you accelerate in P or N? What rpm do you get to, and what happens when you get there? Thanks in advance.
As far as the brakes go, I have not had any problems and the SG didn't read any brake fault codes. I take it in if the issue comes up again.

 

Colby; I just gave my HCH-2 a try in park and it does the same thing. Must be the rev-limiter. H

 

Does the brake light warning not flash, when there is a problem with the battery pack? H

 

Colby...
In another thread there was some discussion about the scan guage and the C1555 code.

It's not letting me copy & paste the link here at work.

Do a google search for:

C1555 code honda civic hybrid

and it should show up. Or do a search here on the forum.

 

Thanks Harold. I really wanted to test this w/ an HCH. I have never seen this happen in another car. It makes me feel much better.
I'm not sure about the brake light warning flashing when there is a problem w/ the battery pack. The 'brake system' light was on steady for about 2 minutes, about 90% of the way through my commute, until I turned the engine off.

Gairwyn: I have seen that thread, but it doesn't say anything about what the code is. I will post a reply on that thread though.

 

2008

i bought it in beginning of february. So it is only driven 2 months and about 5000 kilometers.

I dove it to work today (it`s 09:25 AM in Estonia right now) Now only check engine light is still on. i will visit dealer at 12:00 GMT+2 so I`ll keep you updated....

 

This may be something:

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/bolt-...ml#post2401162

 

Colby- I have the same E85 Fuel kit in my Escape Hybrid.
I have used 85% ethanol for 6 full tanks without any issues.

One thing I did do is, I went up from E10 in steps.
I used E20, E30, E40, then said what the heck, and put in all E85.

I think going from gas or E10 to E85 all at once is too large of a step.
Also, going reverse may also be an issue.

The converter box for E85 assumes you are going to use E85, or close to it, all of the time.
It is a slow process for your car to adjust, and re-learn settings.

Inside the 'box' you got with your kit is a small Potentiometer... a small, probably white, plastic screw. With an eyeglasses screwdriver, you can adjust this screw.

A higher number = you are using more ethanol. A lower number, less than E85.
The scale I think ( don't remember ) goes from 0 to 18 ( or 0 to 15, I forget ).
The factory setting usually comes at 6.

The 6 I don't think means anything, it's just a reference number, like hands on a clock.
If you are using full E85 and are getting a check engine light, try moving the screw 'slightly' higher... 7 or 8 might be enough.

If you switch to regular gas, you can move the screw lower.
If you go from full E85 to plain gas, you could change the screw to close to zero.
( although 2 or 3 might be a more 'gentle' adjustment )

This is a dumb device. It just adds injector pulse length. It does not "sense" changes in blends. It really assumes you are using E85 all the time.

I think your other 'issues' are unrelated to ethanol.

-John

 

Thanks for all the info guys. It looks like the CEL has to do with the E85, as it is confusing the car's ignition timing. It has not returned since I cleared it, but I will try adjusting the unit if the CEL returns. I did not transition to E85 like you did, but I went from 5.75 to 8 to 10 to 27 to 70 to 85. I was initially having no problems. I also may try a White Lightening kit if things don't work out.

 

The timing in my Ford did not change with ethanol.
I used a ScanGauge to watch it closely.
I thought it might, but it didn't.

Remember, the car has no clue the car is using ethanol
The little black box only increases injector on time.
And it increases injector on time without the car's computer knowing it.
The car sends a signal to shoot in x amount of fuel.
The little black box then shoots in x + 6, or x + y, depending on where you set that tiny screw. Since the car can change x, it can adjust for small changes in ethanol percent... maybe even 50% changes in ethanol content, but it generally cannot adjust for 85% changes. Since the car can change x, it can change the air/fuel ratio to keep the catalyst happy. Your car is still in control. Your car just gets y units of extra fuel each pulse.

Good luck. I'd be surpised if an other "kit"... any kit under $1000 behaves differently.
-John