Found some corrosion in this connector that is under the back seat on the passenger side I did my best to clean it, but I'm not sure how much can really be done with the wire pins still in the plastic.





Is there a way to remove the pins from the plastic to clean them and then put them back in? Or is that a waste of time?

 

Under the back seat (horizontal) or behind the back seat (vertical)?

Picture of the area?

An exacto-knife should be sufficient to carefully clean it. I would also be concerned about the mating plug.

 

I should have said that the photo of the back of the connector is actually from the male side.

My cleaning attempt involved removing the 12V battery, then soaking both connector ends in vinegar for about 30 minutes, gently brushing what I could with a toothbrush, then briefly swirling them in a baking soda and water solution to neutralize any vinegar. After this I sprayed them thoroughly with WD40 electrical contact cleaner, and then used the exhaust side of my shop vac to blow them out with a fine detailing tip to make certain it was dry before reconnecting them.

No changes in DTCs after doing this, but I can't be certain I really dealt with the corrosion.

I did also verify with my scan tool today that my 12V battery charges above 1500 rpm, though the 12V light never goes off.

Oh, and I also cleaned up this ground wire that is part of the HV harness under the IPU panel. I used baking soda and water and then sanded it shiny again, and sanded the couple tiny rust spots where it connected to the chassis for good measure.

 

While I'm waiting for my service manual to arrive, I knew I wanted to clean the IPU fan, so I decided to do that today. It was very dirty, but there wasn't anything in there that would cause the fan to not work so that was good news. Since I had everything apart I decided to take a peek inside the MCM and BCM cases, to see if there was anything that jumped out at me. The BCM looked normal to me.

On the MCM, however, I noticed this:




Could this be my problem?

 

Could be. What does the other side look like? Do you have low resistance continuity to the other side of the joint?

 

I couldn't get the board off, but from what I can see the back side at that spot looks fine.

 

Extreme close up after cleaning seems to show there's very little solder left at the top of these joints. I'm not sure how to test for continuity on here, but since I can't get the circuit board off, I'm not sure it's possible to reach the backside of those pins without touching any of the others anyway.

 

I have a message in to a local shop that does electronics work to see what they think about resoldering those spots on the PCB and to see what that would cost. However, if I were to buy a used unit, do I need to make sure all of the numbers match exactly? I've noticed there are 2 numbers on these units and the ending numbers can be different. Mine are 0032 and A12, and I've seen units that are 0031 and A11, and others so I'm wondering if that matters at all.

 

To my knowledge different part numbers are compatible across 06-11 MY.

 

Well, I'm very much struggling to check the continuity of the 20p connector to the MCM, and now I think I may have shorted something because I saw a small amount of smoke. The instructions say to check the brown wires at positions 2 and 9, but my model year the brown wires are at 2 and 8. I checked 2 and it read about 4 ohms resistance, then I had a very difficult time getting the pin in 8, but finally did and saw a little smoke when trying to read the resistance so I immediately pulled the connector out.