Guys I jumped in on a 06' @104k Carfax verified.
w IMA light on & Check engine light & red battery light on dash always on.

Private sale & drove the car about 10 miles & parked the car until my mechanic was able to see it.

Upon mechanic inspection here is what I was advised to repair , which was completed today .
-A/C compressor
-Radiator
-Idle Pulley
-Belt
-Laser NKG plugs
-oil change & Filter
-Antifreeze top up
-Added just about 3 quarts CVT ATF Honda genuine ( this concerns me not going to lie )
-Freon Added 1.5 12oz 134a Ice Cold A/C
-Front Rotors
-Front brake pads
-Cabin & Engine air filter
-51R New 12 DC battery

After driving the car back to the shop another 10 miles or so , Put it on Park then cleared the OBD2 codes.
Previous codes: POAE1 & POA3F

Current code: POA3F

HELP ME PLEASE !!!!!!!

 

Please accept my condolences. I've owned two of those, and I wish they would all die in a fire.

Concerns with work so far:

• If you were 3 quarts low on Honda CVT fluid, the CVT would have been barely operable if it functioned at all. There is a good chance you have over-filled. Recommend you train and fill CVT with the specified fluid and quantity.
• These spark plugs are special, and there are 8. NGK and DENSO make them. If you did not use the correct plugs, replace them.
• Addition of R-134a: hope you used PURE R-134a with no dye, oil or sealant using new hoses that have never been on another vehicle.

P0A3F Motor Rotor Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction.

Extensive diagnostic tree involving probing various connectors for continuity.

Possible outcomes:

1. Broken wire requiring repair.
2. Update/replace MCM
3. Replace motor position sensor

#3 requires removal of engine/transmission and IMA motor with extensive disassembly of the motor itself.

Recommend you purchase a BISHKO Honda service manual on CD via ebay.

Good luck.

 

I have to give it a shot.

Keith, first thing that comes to mind is the IMA battery , if I pop in a new one or rebuilt. should fix this code ?

I'm going to ask the guys @ greentec if they are willing to test my hypothesis.

Got to hear your take on this....

I am a few doors down from greentecauto guys, they are diagnosing my car for the 2nd time tomorrow.

I'll keep you posted.

I have the manual on my cart on eBay just waiting to hear from the guys at greentec auto .

So that's how you feel about the HCHII huh.

What are your thoughts on buying from Alibaba factory direct these China company's selling New sticks/cells w 3 year warranty. Got a quote for $1200 delivered to my home !!

Hope to hear back soon -

 

You have presented zero evidence that you have a hybrid battery issue.

 

Hi Keith,

Because it's not a hybrid battery issue but it is a hybrid component like the wiring possibly or a bad connection or I don't know something electrical would it be something that a hybrid battery shop in your opinion would be able to service and fix?

I'm driving to the shop now I'm hoping the techs would be able to run diagnostic and tell me if they're able to or not either way I'm still going to give you updates.

Please wish me luck because if it is number three then I have to change that sensor I am not going to do that I'm already in 1000 for the car 600 in parts 400 for mechanic

 

IMHO, you need to buy the manual, get a good multimeter and run the diagnostics yourself. You can at least eliminate #1 and #2 for very little money.

Greentec isn't particularly competent outside of obvious battery failures. if you're going to go to a shop, you need to go to one with access to the Honda manuals, or you're wasting time and money.

Look on the bright side... Being only $2K total down is nowhere near as bad as it could have been.

Next time you do this (if you're a glutton for punishment), tackle the trouble codes first. You could have been out <$50 for the manual/cheap multimeter and about 2-3 hours of your time following written directions. Maybe another $100 or so to try a spare MCM.

 

Hi Keith,

Per Techs @ greentec Believes is a bad DC invertor . To fix the charging IMA issue . 12V battery sitting around 11V @ Idle , when step on the gas a little voltage goes up to 14Volts.

red battery light
IMA
Check engine on

whole other slew of codes the Bad battery deterioration one NOT one of them.

my universal OBD2 reader only retrieved ONE code wtf !!

Plan of action starting next week :

Figure out why the red battery light is on , meaning not charging the 12 Volt battery.

My Homework is to check all fuses under the dash , physically pull them out etc. there are some under the hood as well . ( not sure which ones specifically to check though im going to try as much as i can i suppose. help ? )

Will install a DC Invertor , looks like there is a voltage problem thinks this may fix the issue. At least to be able to get the battery bars working & charging and hopefully assist too.

He said after the DC install , will clear codes to drive it around & wait for codes that may reappear .

We are going to eliminate the codes as much as we can.

P.S I ordered the manual book & CD . Going to diag myself follow the book step by step .

 

Sounds like a lot of BS and incorrect diagnostics to me. Your code has NO associated codes, i.e., there are no known causes that can trigger a downstream P0A3F. In some cases, some codes say, "if you also get code XXXXX, troubleshoot that code first." P0A3F stands alone. According to the manual, no other code can trigger this code. Any efforts not directed at troubleshooting this code are a complete waste of time.

What other codes did they report?

There is also a way to "blink" the codes without a code reader:

http://99mpg.com/mikestips/readingtheblinkcod/

NOTE: The codes on that page are NOT valid for your vehicle, but the manual you ordered will have the appropriate DTC tables.

Make sure you short the correct pins. If you do the wrong ones, you'll blow a fuse.

The blink code for P0A3F is "89", i.e., you will have 8 slow blinks of the IMA light followed by 9 fast blinks.

Checking fuses should always be step 1. You have two under-hood fuse boxes and one under-dash.

 

OMG don't tell me that , not the way I'd like to get This Journey started with conflicting professional opinions....

I Like it though ,

I wish I had the correct or appropriate OBD2 reader to be able to pull ALL codes. Do you recommend a specific OBD2 reader ? what about software ?

I will ask for the complete list of all codes and post them here.

Considering I am basically ALL in, on this to get it up and running. Having all the mechanical out of the way, crossing my fingers*.

I don't mind investing in proper tools/scanner/software ( already got the manual on ebay as suggested ) to be able to perform the diagnosis myself.

I'll post again come monday when work begins on the project from hell it looks like. aarrrggg

on another note , Ill start w the fuses tomorrow. so i guess tomorrow , a new entry ...

Thank you for your help Keith.

 

I generally don't give an opinion, unless I qualify it as such. The information I have given you comes from the Honda manual. P0A3F is caused only by the things that directly generate a P0A3F. It's almost a certainty that you have one of the 3 listed issues.

If codes are checked with a weak 12V, all bets are off.

Consumer code readers can't reliably pull all codes. To be confident in the results, you need a professional grade code reader. A Snap-on unit costs about as much as you have invested in the car - $2K.

If you use the blink method above, you will get all codes.