My main question:
Would doing 3 charges and discharges again have any negative effects?

Hi S Keith, hope you and your family have been well ​​​​​​

I think when I originally did my grid charging I didn't really do it to well. I discharged too far twice. Or the pack I have really isn't that good. And it has been almost a year +10000km

It kind of feels like my battery hovers around 3/4 when driving in the city /suburbs. And I think that's a large part of my poor gas mileage. ~35mpg on all seasons 39 psi, on a good day. I've used redline fuel system cleaner (highest concentration of polyether amines, stuff that actually clears carbon buildup), it increased me from 33 to 35, but I don't have data to back that up, just that it was an obvious difference. Injectors must have been dirty. Recommended. Changed air filter. Only thing left I guess Is intake sensors mentioned in other threads? Not gonna stop using a/C :p

What I'll be doing:

Charge until ONE of the following is met:
25 hours
pack exit air temp > 100°F (a regular dollar store thermometer work for guestimate?)
voltage does not increase for 8 hours
20 hours minimum AFTER a discharge to < 120V

charge to first termination criteria
discharge to 106V
charge to first termination criteria, 20 hr min
discharge to 66V
charge to first termination criteria, 20 hr min
discharge to 66V
charge to first termination criteria, 20 hr min

Charging with the car on in between to speed it up is ok correct?

Thank you in advance.

 

Excessive cycling may damage weak or marginal cells.

6-7 bars is normal. 8 bars regularly is often a sign of reduced battery capacity, i.e., it is filling up too quickly.

Have you replaced all 8 spark plugs with the Denso/NGK long life iridium plugs?

Any error codes?

LRR tires? All season may be stealing 3mpg from you.

IMHO, 40mpg in an HCH2 is pretty decent.

Any recalibrations?

Never spare the A/C, and aim the center two vents so they "lob" cold air onto the rear deck. If you are not cool and comfortable, the battery is being damaged.

You MUST provide active cooling to the battery during charge. Period. If you're using a commercial grid charger/harness, that should be included. Please confirm the process by which you plan to cool the battery.

Those guidelines were for a 350mA charge current. IMHO, if you are not seeing recalibrations, you likely don't need to do it; however, a SINGLE charge/discharge to 106V/charge, may recover capacity and extend life.

 

Hi S Keith,

Thank you for being so thorough as usual.

No I have not replaced the sparkplugs. Considering the condition I got the car in, I'm guessing I definitely should. Would the Denso 4704 be correct? Those are the easiest for me to acquire. $11.89 from Canadian Tire, otherwise I guess I could buy from Rockauto.com.

No error codes.

Not LRR tires, sprung for a set of 50% tires that came with the stock alloy wheels, $200 cad.

No recalibration. Just charges and discharges quickly as you described. Not the recalibration like the YouTube video you have linked.

I figured about the a/c, remember you mentioning it somewhere.

Sorry I should have continued my previous thread. Thought starting a new one was better forum etiquette after 5months: cooling:I plan on cooling the battery by having a 10A 12v battery charger plugged in, with key in ignition but all accessories off, making sure I can tell the battery cooling fan is running before I begin the grid charge. I have already left the 12v charger on over night to ensure 12v battery is at 100%.
​​
I will heed to your advice then. I will do just a single charge/discharge to 106v/charge. I was just worried about that initial grid charge being done improperly.

Thank you again. Btw. Is Keith your first name or last name? Keith, or Mr. Keith? Id like to refer to you correctly
​​

 

Sounds good.

NGK 4458 Preferred
or Denso 3433

"Hey D!ckhead" or "LIHOM" works (Legend in His Own Mind). Steve works too.

 

Found the NGK 4458 for $22 per 2 pack locally! Going to go pick those up, and some dielectric grease for the sockets . I See you recommending against anti seize in another thread so going to leave that.

Thank you Steve TVL (The Verifiable Legend)

 

It's not me. It's NGK:

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resourc...0spark%20plugs.

 

You're a beast. Thank you.

​​​​​You have a torque spec too?

 

13 ft-lb

Ironically, the service manual says to use anti-seize - probably a carry over from the pre-iridium spark plugs.

 

Thank you!

Began the grid charge
184.1V 7:40pm Tuesday September 15th
​​
Key in ignition (at point right before starting twisted)

Have a desk fan running against the IPU cover just out of paranoia. Probably not doing anything 😅

​​​​​​I could not hear the IPU fan while testing my grid charger, so i did 2 minutes disconnect of 12v battery and watched it charge the hybrid battery and saw that the IPU Fan still didn't turn on, must be the low ambient temperature + it only charging for a minute. (previously did triple reset and force charge).

12v Battery sitting at 100%, i also have the larger regular civic battery.

Heres a picture

Key in ignition dash lights.


Will monitor for next 3 hours and then check in morning.

 

Fan definitely isn't doing anything. Battery is insulated to insure proper airflow goes through the pack.

Please confirm the IPU lid is secured in place.