2005 Civic Manual Transmission.
I have had this problem a few times over the last few months. I come out and the cars 12v battery is dead and requires a recharge before I can start the car. The only thing I can think of is that the cooling fan continues to run after the car is shut off. This I suspect is normal operation but it is supposed to only run for a predetermined amount of time or until it reads an internal temperature. If it is not shutting off it could be the culprit that is causing the battery to go dead.
What controls the time the fan continues to run? What is the best way to test and see if that controller is working properly?

Any known issues that cause this to happen intermittently?

It has been doing this for while but unrelated to this issue I just had the Hybrid Battery Reconditioned and balanced. Ran like a top yesterday. Any connection here?

Thanks for any help you all my be able to provide.

 

Bad 12V. Confirm with a load test at an auto parts store.

Every single time you take a 12V to deep discharge, particularly at low current for long periods of time, you damage it. Period. Just a few times can be enough to effectively ruin a battery. You've probably had a bad battery since the first time you had an issue.

The cooling fan typically runs for just a few minutes, and it only pulls about 2A, so it would take a lot of fan running to deplete your 12V battery.

Concerning the reconditioning, I hope you didn't pay much, and I hope you don't expect it to last much longer than the warranty offered.

Good luck,

Steve

 

I plan on getting the 12v load tested this weekend but was just looking to see if there are any known issues. As far as the reconditioning and balancing, I did that myself with a grid charger.

 

If you don't have an IMA light, and your 12V light isn't on, there are no known issues.

If you have any aftermarket equipment installed, that's were to look first.

Did you get the hybrid automotive reconditioning kit?

Steve

 

The only after market item is a simple deck stereo and I used a factory plug adaptor but I can check for any unnecessary current draws there. I did not get a chance to get the battery checked this weekend. (It is only 5 months old) I am getting it checked on my way home today at a place authorized to change it out under warranty if it checks bad.
Yes I got this reconditioning kit
https://hybridautomotive.com/product...ant=5576544132
Hopefully the battery checks bad and that is the culprit. If not, then I will be gremlin hunting for some time.

 

UPDATE: Battery checked out good so I am now going to have to hunt gremlin's. I timed the fan running yesterday when I got home. Just over 5 minutes before it shutdown. Next step will be to see if there is any draw happening on the battery when the car is sitting.

 

Trunk light on maybe?

 

Place ammeter in series between the negative terminal and battery.
Should be about 15-20mA

 

So I let the car sit for a few days while I drove my other car. After 4 days the battery was completely flat again. Charged the battery with a CTEK reconditioning charger to lessen any damage done by the battery going dead. Took an amp reading and it is only drawing 9-10mA. Not enough to kill the battery. The main draw is coming from the back up circuit. I need to rig up a way to test the amp draw after the car has been driven and shut down without breaking the contact. (Should be simple but need to go to the auto parts store to get a part) so that I can see the amp draw after shutdown and overtime.