(41) is P0134 or P0135 indicating an issue with your upstream O2 sensor (A/F sensor) - I would not worry about this unless you get a persistent CEL.
I'm not able to identify 69.

If you replace the fuse, does it blow?

 

You can't disable IMA simply by turning the switch off. That's for the HCH2. You have an HCH1 and need to follow those directions.

The manual is a complete dog when the IMA is inop; however, it shouldn't be as bad as you indicate.

 

Hello again,
I replaced the blown fuse and started the car, let it run a minute or so, revved it to 3500 RPM
Fuse is still good. IMA Blink code is back to 73 only, check engine codes are identical.
In your estimation, the rebuilt battery is bad, the recommended troubleshoot is the PTC circuit mentioned in the other thread, it sounds like.
Please let me know if I've misunderstood. Many thanks for all this.

 

That would be the first place I look.

Your 05 (and some 04) should not have a PTC circuit present. It was removed from the car in mid-04. If the car senses a circuit, it throws a fault. If the PTC strips are present, or a resistor is in the circuit, it will fault. It need to see an open circuit.

The 03 and some 04 need a PTC circuit present - either the PTC strips, or a simple 20-30Ω resistor completing the circuit to "spoof" the computer with a valid value simulating the PTC circuit. In some cases, the older computers get patched at the dealership to accept batteries without a PTC circuit.

PTC = Positive Temperature Coefficient - a device whose resistance increases with temperature. This circuit is formed from green strips that contacts all cells along the length of each stick. These 20 strips are in series with each other and in normal conditions, the total resistance is 20-30Ω. If a single cell in the pack shows a notably higher temperature, the strip's resistance will increase notably, and the pack will fault with the Cell overheat code. This sensing circuit was expensive and Honda eliminated it as a cost savings measure as it was a bit overkill for the failure mode of these cells.

Worth checking this SB:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...45879-6420.pdf

Note that the red wire shown against the orange bus bar plate is the PTC circuit. If it was cut and then restored, that could cause the error.

In short, it needs to be determined how the pack is configured - actual/simulated PTC strip present or not? Whichever way it is, reverse it.

 

You should also pull the IPU lid and check the orange connector pins for voltages as described here:

https://electricvehicleforums.com/fo...62/#post268612

 

I disconnected the cable and turned off the IMA switch as instructed in the other thread to go gas-only; the performance was the same as with the faulty battery installed and turned on, which makes sense. I had hoped it might be a little better. I guess with the manual transmission, there is really no option except to get the IMA system and battery working right. I can't even get over 30mph on level ground.

Thank you again for all your help.

 

Being unable to go over 30mph on level ground is not completely attributable to the hybrid battery.

Is the red 12V battery light on all the time, or will it go away between about 1600 and about 3600 rpm?

 

Did you check the voltages at the BCM connector?

 

The battery light is inconsistent. I need to apologize for previous - I think I imagined that I revved it to 3500RPM before as I said. I just noticed that even when the car is sitting in neutral and I try to revv it up, the engine will not get above like 2800RPM before it refuses and then the RPMs go back down even though I have not let up on the gas pedal. I also notice that the motor starts to vibrate noticeably when I do that. I get that may not be related at all to a hybrid battery question; any input would still be appreciated.

I'll try to figure later how to check voltage at BCM. Thank you again.

 

The battery light being inconsistent is good.

If you rev and hold at 2200 rpm, does the battery light go out?