Hi to all , my name is jesse and i am new to this fourm!
I am currently building back a 2010 silverado that was an auction truck and looking for some technical help.. when we purchased the truck it has a rod thrown through the side of the block.
- ENGINE DID CRANK and started
- another tech locked the engine up while trying to limp it into the shop
- engine was removed with the damper "torque converter ?" still attached
- broken block was replaced with a steel block 6.0 from a 2015
- i ordered pistons for a 2010 hybrid as they are different and used them in the 2015 short block
when engine attempts to start the crank will not turn,simply rocks the engine as a whole
- engine takes 46 ft lb to rotate crank with no plugs or accessories on
- my hybrid Tahoe takes 27 ft lb to rotate as a complete engine in the car. plugs in and belts on.
I am receiving a DTC P0C2F- control module drive motor speed -engine speed correlation
- this codes does not hard set but intermittently get thrown while attempting to start
I have went over the engine installation and verified as much as i can that everything is where it should be , I did not pull the engine just got tasked with finding out why it will not start
i have swapped HV batteries from the silverado and tahoe and the hv battery from the silverado will start the tahoe.
The hv battery from the silverado did have 4 cells that dropped to 2-4 v while attempting to start so i replaced those with tested cells from a prius. all cells passed a 2 minute headlamp test. my nevt venue to look at i think will be the front side of the transmission and the dampener for damage on removal or installation
ANY help is greatly appreciated , Thanks Jesse


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P0C2F according to the hybrid manual you have a problem with the sensed engine speed

these motors are very powerful and can move 3.5 tons
it can start that engine without breaking a sweat.


that part
- another tech locked the engine up while trying to limp it into the shop yep possibly damaged the electric motor or transmission when it locked up should have used a tow truck that is what they are for..

considering a 'normal' starter is maybe 1.2kw

this starter is a HUGE monster 60kw starter backed by 300volts, 3 phase motor.


I had starts at upwards of 2,000 rpms.. autostop resume (at 29mph)


2 minute headlamp test. does not mean anything as that runs off the 12volt battery (make sure all your grounds are done correctly) as it chain links threw the engine from the battery to the chassis to the inverter

 

thanks for the response ! my headlamp test was with the battery apart and testing each cell individually , this is how we have always done prius batteries. Their really is not a wealth of information on this transmission,even on our repair sites and just a few short videos and a few older tech articles online.
last night i removed the dampener to flex plate bolts and attempted a start to see if it would spin the dampener itself. still nothing but the engine and trans "rocks'.i plan on removing the transmission today and inspecting the dampener and input shaft , possibly pull the electric pump housing and see what i can view the front internals,
,

 

:::UPDATE:::
removed transmission, disassembly of the lower pan and valve body showed, no damage, removed the front pump / dampener housing and found the main shaft to be broken as it sheared the shaft at the splines in the front planetary gear set .which would make sense as the code im receiving is stating that the input shaft speed senor is showing a large difference in rpm vs the crank .. i have taken lots of photos and will update as i receive parts and attempt rebuild .

 

I'll mostly agree with Tahoe_08 for once. A 2 minute headlamp test is not meaningful unless you're draconian about your voltages, i.e., you demand a ridiculous tight grouping of loaded voltages.

Let's say a headlamp bulb is 150W (most are lower). That's at 12V. That would be a 12.5A load. However, on a 7.2V NiMH module (not cell), you're only going to pull about 7.5A. 7.5A for 2 minutes is 250mAh or 3.8% of the module's rated capacity. Also 7.5A is only about 5% of the peak current these modules may see.

If you do ANY research on this site, you'll discover that the GM hybrids destroy their batteries. Once you see any signs of weakness, the damage is extensive and permanent. Most batteries only have 1-2 decent modules at the ends with the others completely destroyed (less than 15% rated capacity).

Here's how to do an in-car discharge test:

https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f...results-31736/

Detailed battery test results:

https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f...ry-pack-31796/

I can't help you with anything transmission related, but if you're thinking about using such primitive Prius battery diagnostic techniques, which you can usually get away with on the Prius, on the GMs, you're in for a world of pain.

Good luck.

 

be sure to put a new AUX PUMP and filters there is TWO filters one for the main pump and one for the aux pump...might as well while it's cracked open

 

" broken block was replaced with a steel block 6.0 from a 2015"????

Did you move the camshaft and cam phaser from the aluminum original over? Hybrid camshaft phasers are totally incompatible with non-hybrid.

Then there is the variable displacement oil pump and cylinder de-activation.

 

Makes sense that the shaft sheared off if the engine locked up. That electric motor inside the transmission is very strong.

i would be interested to learn more about all the changes that need to be made to be able to use a 6.0 steel block back into a Hybrid unit. I had understood that the FLA Aluminum block was different but not sure exactly what was different abut it? Seems to be several of these Hybrids at my local salvage yards lately. I am curious as to why you would not just pick up a low mileage used FLA and drop it in? .

 

Luck like I have same problem now bought new transmission and we try to raplace.
After rebuild hybrid battery I got same code POC2F my gas engine didn't crank I can hiring noise how my transmission rotate but after 10-15 seconds everything shut off.
You can see my video.
Can you download your pictures?

 

Looks like it cranks over and the engine simply never starts. Best that I can tell you have an ICE (engine) issue.
As a first step lets get a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and make sure we have fuel pressure.