https://electricvehicleforums.com/fo...results-31736/

There's a ZIP file attached to the first message. The dead link is to the instructions on how to add PIDs to torque.

 

being a 2011 the hybrid battery is most likely toast.

so far so good, but it's only been a few months and maybe 6k miles, I'd have to check forsure. but it's not been thru a cold sub zero winter or anything, and probably won't get that cold here, which I guess is the the biggest unknown. other than that I was just looking at some live data the other day while driving around, all Temps looks good, all cell voltage still match within a 0.01-0.02v from full charge all the way down to truck cracking while driving around a parking lot and up slight hill to load the cells as hard as it will let me before starting just like they did at first install. doesn't look like charge or discharge voltage outside of the ratings I've seen and they seem to be staying balanced and truck has run flawlessly since the battery swap but only time will tell over the next few years.


I've had good luck with this adapter and it seems on-sale.

for Android Phones ONLY - Wireless Bluetooth Diagnostic OBD2 Scanner Car Code Reader and Scan Tool for All 1996 & Newer Vehicles ELM327 Compatible OBDII https://a.co/d/7KYA4L1

 

That's the one I bought, thanks!

Can you share your source for the battery modules? Did you get them directly from Nexcell? I'm not sure I'll get the budget needed to pay retail for the batteries or to buy a complete pack.

 

yeah I got them straight from jack at Nexcell. since it's a company budget and company used truck that would be great data to have on how these hold up under constant heavy use, but you do have to install them yourself. not hard, but depending on how your company feels about that I guess. I have seen a list of installers that will do it, but I think you'd have to be close by those mostly in California. they have a site, but I'd just email him, he seemed to respond quickly to my questions. I do recommend having him link you to a good set of replacement bus bars that bolt between cells, they are cheap and your oem ones will be green and it takes time to clean them right. just all aren't the same, and dude says he's tested a bunch, being it's his 2 year warranty I went with his replacement bars. makes install half the time to only need to clean a few cable ends, instead of 30 small bars haha. oh and grab a cheap inch lb tq wrench. they tighten to like 20in lbs or something like that which is 2 ft lbs. you can snap the stud off hand tight and if they come loose they get hot and melt stuff so a cheap wrench is good insurance to save the hassle.

if not, the more common battery names that come up when you Google batteries will come out and just swap out the whole metal case for you in what seems like 20mins or so and give you a small warranty.

As far as price what i saw is most expensive just go the dealer and order a new one, about 4k with a 1k core. the Nexcell are 3300 I think and green bean is a little less, their price seems to depend on how long a warranty you want, since they use (hopefully low mileage) used packs that have been tested and matched up with other like capacity packs to make one for you. but I'd didn't get far enough to get a quote since I was either going to buy new, try the Nexcell or try source 2 low mile prius packs from wrecked cars and use those to make one full tahoe pack.

​​​​​​in the end these trucks will murder even a brand new pack from gm in around 100k miles. so it's pick the $ amount your OK with spending. upside is I really do like this truck when it's running correctly, and it gets better mileage than my coworker with a brand new 4cyl turbo full sized chevy truck. so that's nice that new trucks haven't fully caught up and passed it economy wise yet. I am getting an honest 21 city with the wife driving the absolute worst of stop and go drop the kids off at school sit in traffic forever type days with front and rear ac blasting. then 24 as soon as I jump on the highway to run down to the coast at 75-80mph on cheap 87 locked in v8 mode. all the afm v4 stuff is bypassed for longevity giving up mileage. his 2022 4cyl will almost match the highway mpg but still only gets 17 around town, which is still good but I did expect more from that setup before he got it. he does say it tows it boat great thou being turbo, and I've not towed long distance with this hybrid yet.

 

Got my new adapter today. Based on what I'm seeing I don't think I have any bad modules. Only 82,257 on the clock. 0.4V delta isn't terrible AFAIK. Something funny though is after sitting for a bit, SoC got up to 71% but module voltages went down to 16.3-16.6V. Ambient temp here in GA is roughly 48 degrees so I wouldn't expect any adjustment based on that?

I can start a new thread or find one more appropriate if y'all would like, but you seem like a very knowledgeable bunch.

 

I'd post in this thread (meaning the link at the bottom) and have skeith take a look at the results. he knows about these nimh batteries. I really only know what I've read, but you need to get a log during discharge under load. at rest a good pack and a bad pack is mostly the same voltage.

you do have low mileage thou, so that should help. I don't really know how it comes up with state of charge. some maths involved, but not just direct voltage.

what's the truck doing that lead to checking the battery? there is other things that have tsb's. like the tranny fluid pump that runs while the truck engine is off. it runs off the 12v battery and has had some revision. but you should have the newest one being a 2011 or newer. I've seen a few people replace the 12v battery and it take care of some issues. they aren't used to start the engine, just used to run things more like a deep cycle battery would be used. so they can test good but not be up to how these trucks use them. at least that's from what I read. mine has never had an issue.

https://electricvehicleforums.com/fo...results-31736/

 

I'll give you the background on the truck quickly:

• Truck was based in Phoenix since new at our other locatiion. We transferred it here to Savannah, GA last week, and I took ownership of getting it back up to 100%. A lot of cosmetic issues mostly.
• When picked up: Service brake system. Service hybrid system. Service traction control. Service stabilitrak. CEL on. Got reports of it stalling in park, but I'm almost surely convinced that someone just didn't know that it was going into auto stop.
• I put a charger on it when I got home, left it overnight. I did heed the "no charging with key on" warnings. After charging overnight, battery capacity on my "smart" charger still showed "low". The brake, traction control, and stabilitrak warnings all went away.
• After end of day, driving home, truck stalled, and when restarted all the afore mentioned warnings returned. New 12V battery installed right then. Brake, traction control, and stabilitrak warnings have not returned since new 12V battery installed.

The "service hybrid system" message is what prompted me to start looking at the batteries. More from a budgetary perspective, If the batteries need replacing, the mothership probably won't approve my budget for repairs. If it is mostly cosmetic, I'll probably get approval and can move forward. I figure I need to determine what the most expensive repair needed is before looking at the cosmetics. End goal is just to get the truck to a point where visitors from HQ can drive it while in town, we can trust its reliability, and most importantly we won't be embarrassed by the truck. In our location we've always taken great care of the company vehicles and I'd like to maintain that reputation.

 

interesting.. yeah check that other thread it will tell you how to do a log with torque pro, basically pop the hood, which will keep the engine from turning off. Rev it up till the soc charge gets about 70% ish. being winter you might have a hard time getting a good load, but turn on the ac max front and back with the windows down, any defroster you have, lights and stuff, basically trying to get a 10amp or so load on the battery. close the hood so it goes into auto stop, start recording and log it till the engine restarts and I think he wants till it goes back into auto stop again, I don't remember off the top of my head. the how-to is in that other thread. then you can post up the log and hopefully Keith is around and will graph it for you and let you know. as for the rest of the stuff, yeah start another thread with any codes and stuff that you get now after replacing the 12v battery. someone should be able to help with those too.


edit*
only code I know forsure is P0BBD. that hybrid cell voltage outside parameters. that's seems to be the main one that tells you the battery is dead, but mine ran pretty badly jerking and bucking coming in and out of aurostop a while before I actually got the code.

you scanner and torque pro app should read the codes well enough.

 

Don't bother. Battery is on its last legs at best. 0.4V is horrible.

Phx chews them up and spits them out. I replaced one in a silverado with only 55K miles on it. Completely shot.

 

I bothered. Sending to the other thread here in a few.