Here's a diagram to go with S Keith's instructions:



I would have bought this single power supply, but bought the LPC-100-350 + APC-35-350 combo instead:

 

If you have that option handy, it might be the better choice due to availability...

 

Thanks S Keith and Jaime, i ordered the supplies today should be here Friday. ill probably work on it Saturday.

 

Sounds good. Please note that I specified 2 hours ± 5 minutes. The goal with that is the ensure you do not overcharge and cook the battery. Under no circumstances should you charge for more than two hours unless you devise a means of forced cooling that is at least as effective as the stock cooling system.

 

thanks SKeith, I just got the diode this morning, do i have to pull the battery out or can i just disconnect it from the inverter and charge in the truck?

 

If you can adequately access the terminals I identified, you can conduct the the charge in the truck.

If at any time you notice detectable warmth above ambient, I recommend you terminate charge and limit any future charge to that duration or less.

 

Charged for 1hour 35 minutes i have 318volts 20 hours later.all cells at 15.9 to 16
now i have 3 codes and a no crank issue p1ae2, p1b05, p1b06 any ideas i have tried to clear them but they will not clear.

any help is greatly appreciated

 

Those codes are because there is an open in the High Voltage Interlock Circuit. There are switches that are opened when certain components that allow access to high voltage are removed. The battery cable cover has one of those switches and the orange safety plug has one too. Make sure you have put everything back together properly and your orange safety plug is all the way in. Dont forget to slide it down after swinging the lever part of it down, otherwise the HVIC will be open.

 

well the weather is allowing me to get back to this project charging hv battery again. I charged it this morning got the ice motor to run but would run only under throttle have 60 lb from the fuel pump, no service hybrid or any other messages on the dash. No dtcs but as i let off the throttle it was making noise from the transmission a bit of a grinding sound as it went into auto stop I thought the ice motor would run until the vehicle got to operating temp. I don't mind buying a battery if thats all that is wrong with the truck. Should the ICE run by itself in park with the hood open S Keith, Jamie< anyone? the name change is because it wouldn't allow me to log into the original

 

As a safety feature, Autostop is disabled while the hood is open so the ICE should stay running.

Does the engine run better (idle properly without stepping on the accelerator) if you shift to Neutral? I'm wondering if something in the transmission is bogging down the engine, requiring you to step on the accelerator.

Unless you only get HV battery DTCs, the lack of a smoothly running ICE leads me to believe the main issue is not in the HV battery. Even with a badly deteriorated HV battery, I would think the ICE would run properly. You would only see symptoms of a bad battery on acceleration and going out of Autostop.