Probably be next weekend before I do anything else. I will go back and look at the spreadsheets on that other thread, did you actually load an excel file attachment that I can download and use? My Excel skills are pretty weak on building spreadsheets but I can modify and add data in "most of the time" without messing the entire sheet up too badly LOL.
I have the Turnigy balance charger/power supply and leads ordered.
I will update next weekend if I can get all the stuff together and get started. Not sure how long the Best Hybrid company will let me to keep the core before they need it back. Hopefully a few weeks so I can get this done. I have a guy interested in the old battery and I explained to him that I would be testing it and I will let him know the battery health so he knows exactly what he is buying. It may turn out to be total junk like yours and I will just drop it in the wooden box and say good riddance. Just so weird that the truck drove so well with it in there. Real live data coming soon. Like a treasure hunt I love it....

 

Thanks dnt1010 - you got some great pics and an awesome write up there. Appreciate it.

I'm also providing an update from the original thread - I decided to install the aftermarket head unit as I decided that was bothering me more than an average-running hybrid battery. It FIXED my issues with the screen dropping out, which I guess would only mean it was a bad stock head unit. Really weird problem to have, especially with the symptoms I was having, but it was NOT an electrical issue.

The kit that I ordered from Crutchfield included EVERYTHING I needed in order to install the head unit into my car. I was able to keep my factory rear seat DVD player, steering wheel controls, the factory backup camera, and all of the corresponding parking sensor/door/turning signal chimes. It has Bluetooth, full OEM stereo integration, Apple Carplay, Android's version of Carplay, all of it works perfectly. I paid Crutchfield $25 for their ReadyHarness service- if you are ordering a new head unit and don't have anything less than advanced experienced in wire splicing, PLEASE DO THIS. You give them your exact make/model/year, and they splice all of the wires that you need to install the head unit in your car, and put all of the unnecessary wires in a separate bag that you can throw out. Worth every penny. We got everything working except one feature on our first try - the last nonworking feature was solved because I hadn't pushed a connector in far enough so it didn't snap on. Done. Bit of a PITA getting the wires stuffed into the back of the console, but it looks pretty. Pictures below, one of the head unit in my car (dont mind the ghostlike reflection of my father's face in the screen), and one of the total equipment list to get it working with my car.

 

Looks great, good to know that an aftermarket unit fits in so well, Good info added to the site, I know someone will be ale to use that. .

 

I have a similar issue with the headunit as well built in 01/08

not a big deal since it comes on most of the time and will come on with in a few min..
AFM works fine getting 23.9 combined over the last 500 miles 28MPG Highway 58mph W/Cruse control, seems to be ideal speed
The 12v battery is important
Weak battery will cause issues with the computers (since they have to start up the hybrid system, fuel pump, ignition system, transmission aux pump, radiator fan(s), coolant pump,radio.. possibly the A/C fans if you left it on)
Estimated Power consumption is about 1500-2000 watts on start up.. about 175-200amp draw.....
that is more then a normal setup....

If I leave it on NAV it will start every time

go figure LOL

some people tend to put the cheapest battery they can find

you need at lest H6-DLG or H6-AGM group 48 I think a H7 battery might fit which is slightly bigger then the H6 but almost 100more CCA

not H6-E or H6-DL those don't have enough power (those are for a small car v6 or 4 banger)

 

I would suggest using the AFM delete Range tool - apparently over 100k it's a bit of a gamble as it will contribute to oil burn, collapsed lifters and eventually a worn cam lobe if not addressed in time. Thought 23.9mpg sounds tempting. Are you still averaging that? I'm at 18.9 right now and largely pleased with the fuel savings. My previous Jeep Commander with a 4.7l V8 averaged 13.8 which was abysmal. Hopefully fuel prices don't shoot up any higher in California.

 

it's on it's way down the prices for gas..


my MAP sensor some how unplugged it self..
haha I wonder how Bet it was the guy that had changed the oil at the chain shop


and threw a CEL for that P0069 (MAP code) and P0430 (Cat code)
so it dropped 22.8 combined

basically the readings were backwards under throttle it show a vacuum 3.3PSI (23kPa) @1500RPM and at idle it would be 30kPa 650-670


3.33psi is 1/5th of normal atmosphere pressure almost a full space vacuum basically the car thought it was at 36,000 feet above sea level

In 'English' terms it was running out of specs and not the expected number the computer was looking for hence CEL

now it's showing the correct readings 90-98kPa under load so it's getting plenty of AIR to fuel ratio

but got everything going and passed a drive cycle


you can see my fuelly here
http://www.fuelly.com/car/chevrolet/...brent88/905265

I made adjustments so anything under 100 miles or 3.5 gallons were combined together.... that is why you will not see an entry with 27.8 on there for 95% highway use

 

What does that programmer allow you to do with the HYBRIDS?