Hello I am now forced to replace the motor in my 08 Tahoe Hybrid. (metal shavings in oil, oil in cylinder 1)

anyways I no longer have access to all data.

does anyone have the alldata or similar procedure for removal of this?

is there anything anyone wants to add as for anything to be on the lookout?

I'm putting in a junkyard motor because I am short on funds. all I can do is do a compression test by spinning the crank with my milwaukee Impact. I understand this isn't going to tell me 100% if it's any good or not. but I am doing absolutely everything I can afford to do. I have no other options as this is my only vehicle.

 

I had ran across this.


the hybrid 6.0 has a bit different cam in in than non hybrid. did you pull a non hybrid engine from the junk yard?

 

oh and just a thought, there's a good chance it's all from the afm stuff. lifters wiping out cam lobe type of thing, seems it's common on all. ls based engines with afm between 130k and 200k depending on frequency of oil. changes.

 

No I got a motor from a hybrid tahoe that was the same year as mine. came with the aux pump computer harness. paid $500.

 

I am sure its something along those lines that caused it to start the break down process. what did it in was driving it for about 20min at ohhhhh around 280° on 2 separate days lol.

it got to the point where I knew it wasn't long for this world and wanted to see how long it could go with no coolant.

technically it still runs. just sounds like a collapsed lifter. these are good motors

 

hahaha yeah, that would do it, especially with the alum block ls's. that's a good price if it's good.

if you have time, while the new engine is out and you plain to keep it for a good amount of time, I'd either replace the afm lifters with either oem or one other I can't think of right now(but not cheap priced), all the cheap ones fail on people, sometimes out of the box. or do the delete in the ecm and under the oil sensor now. save you a hassle in the long run.

I think this guy's does a good job of understanding what the real issues with the afm system is and I followed his guide, basically you turn it off in the ecm, block off the oil going to the lifters and open a pathway so that oil pressure can't back up from the other side of the lifter and activate it, which means collapsing it, and then they get stuck down which is what is the root cause of it all. using engine oil as hydraulic fluid and then setting the oil reminder for 10k. you want them to last you need good oil changes 3-5k at most and quality oil and filter, not jiffy lube. but that's if you wanted it to last 200k which obviously gm didn't care about. make it thru the warranty is all it needed to do.


if you get time let us know how the swap goes. I'm hoping to get long miles from mine, but wouldn't surprise me if I'm pulling the engine at some point too.