Well, at 93,500 miles and 4.5 years, my second little electric water pump, the one that circulates hot water to the heater when you are in EV mode quit. But it's an irrelevant part, and one I can live without. In fact, it lengthens EV drive time ( significantly in winter ) with this pump disabled.

So, being long past warranty, I'm not going to replace it.

You still get heat to the cabin from the mechanical ( belt ) driven pump anytime the engine is running. And that's good enough for me.

The bonus is, the water does NOT circulate at all now when in EV mode, which keeps the engine temperature hotter, longer....which keeps you in EV mode longer. I used to turn the heat off just for this reason at long drive-thru's so I would stay in EV. Now, it's just "automatic"! A nifty new feature!

++ A little known fact is, the electric water pump runs anytime the climte control system is on, even to a "cold" setting, and even an A/C setting.
Now mine won't. Which is just another plus in summer as well.

Someone without a "worn out" one may like to try disconnecting the wires and see if you get any error codes, as many of you may like how the car drives ( more EV time ) without it.

-John

 

"...hotter, longer.."

The catalyst temperature may be a derivative, derived from, the engine temperature, you may be looking at premature catalytic converter failure.

 

Anyone have a picture of where it is and where the wires connect? Seems like a harmless thing to test in Winter.

RayP

 

I will try to get a picture to post. In case anyone is wondering, there is no physical harm whatsoever to doing this, catalytic converter or otherwise. Starting the engine after 3 minutes of EV time in winter, is no different than starting the car after parking with the key off for 3 minutes in winter. One needs to put this in perspective.

The only possible negative could be increased emissions, but this is questionable at best, as you are not burning any fuel for extended periods of time, (extra minutes) followed by a few seconds of cooler catalyst.

Williard is openly anti-Ford, anti-FWD, anti-antilock brakes, anti-traction control, anti-air bags, anti every form of technology that exceeds his limited personal knowledge. He is anti everything post WWII era best I can asertain. He has been asked repeatedly, by countless folks, countless times, to not post in this area, and yet he continues to do so.

 

In general, disconnecting any component should generate a error code of some kind and depending what the component is may cause a "limp home" mode. It's anybodys guess if it does!

A CEL/SEL can be cleared with most any code reader/scanner but the "wrench" icon is different. For example, pulling the fuse on the 4WD module causes the "wrench" icon to lite and a generic code reader/scanner sees nothing. Replacing the fuse causes to "wrench" icon to go OFF. Only a properly programmed SG-II can detect/delete the DTC left in the system even after the fuse is replaced. Does it hurt anything? Who knows? Does it self-clear itself like many DTCs do? Mine didn't after several days!

 

If I remember the little pump does not run unless the vent system is turned on --- so really cant hurt or cause emission issue. also the electronics doesnt know if the motor is actually running. there should be no cel/ses light for this.

 

You've never seen a DTC listed as a circuit malfunction or primary/secondary coil circuit?

The so-called 4WD solenoid has a DTC named coil open/shorted. No DTC for a solenoid circuit?

 

this little pump does not effect the engine as it only circulates the coolant through the heater when the main mechanical pump is not turning. Even the MECS pump only has a DTC for the relay circuit, then it looks for an over heat to set a DTC but it does not test the actual pump.

 

Yes, I was about to edit my post as I looked at the manual and DTCs are only set on the relay control/PCM side of the circuit.

 

I was thinking about unplugging mine last year because it doubles the warm up time even if you are running the a/c