Hello everyone

Wanted to share and see if i can get some helpful input regarding how to fix my issue with my 05 FEH. I bought this vehicle late mid December 2020 had no issues with it until 2 weeks ago when i was getting on to the freeway on ramp ( Stopped on a red light). When the light turned green i proceeded to accelerate and felt a jerking as if the car was attempting to drink out of a straw but it was only for a few seconds and then i got up to highway speed ( 75-80mph). Everything was fine for about 12 miles into my trip when the car dies, red triangle, wrench light and engine light come on and was dead on the side of the road. Was toad off the freeway and left on a street for a good hour tried to start the car and still nothing. Had it toad to my house and again tried to start the car and nothing unplugged the battery to see if the codes were preventing a normal start but that did not fix anything lights still present. Next day decided to pull some codes from the car and decided to check once more if the car would start and success!! car started and left it running for a good 15min went into EV mode and everything.

So I have the car "operational" but really want to fix the issue before it decides to die on me again .

i pulled these Codes off the car
TCM
P0A0A
P0562
P1A0A
PCM
P0685
P1000
P1A14
ABS
C1524

I want to try to fix the car right instead of throwing parts at it in hope that is fixes the issue, thought it was a fuel pump issue as i had been working on that part prior to the shut down, but having had read a few of these threads i am beginning to think its a battery issue with the 12v. checked the inertia switches and they did not look tripped and i did not mess with them any further. What is bugging me is that the car started with me having had done nothing to the car. the 12v battery is new 4-6 months new. Also checked the inverter pump or MECH pump to see if it was running and was not running before so i thought that was the issue but now that the car is turning on i can feel the the pump is running fine.

any help would be appreciated and will keep yall posted come Saturday.


EDIT 9/28

Forums not letting me reply so here is an update

Cleaned the terminals on the 12v battery making sure that it was giving me a clean connections to both the battery and car ground.

Made sure the terminals where screwed on tight

Checked fuses and relays only changed the 001 relay relaiting to the power sustain for PCM with one of the cooling fan ones.

After that cleared codes and stressed tested the car off and on for 20min at no more than 40mph max, but did not see anymore codes or SSN message.

Completed an oil change only because I felt confident it wasn't going to die on me anytime soon.

Currently driving it again in normal work commute 40miles round trip and have not had any problems.

Also did a HV battery rebalance (Forscan) with no change in performance of the car.

Oh and checked the 12v battery was at 14v to begin with then turned on the lights with engine off and dropped to ~13v or so turned on high beams as well and that went down to ~12v.
Turned on the engine and went back to 14v so I guess that's okay. I am going to be monitoring the car using Forscan for a bit and making sure them codes don't show up again.

Also quick question do these FWD eacapes have a Power train Unit? If it does I would love to get my hands in it and change the oil.

 

So here is an update on Saturday i started with sanding off the ground for the negative terminal connector that grounds to the car cleaned off the connector so the battery won't have any issues with charging. Also checked all of the fuses under the hood and bottom left hand passenger side and only found one blown fuse (cig fuse) so i disregarded that one as i don't think that would cause the red triangle and **** down.

After making sure everything was good to go i cleared the remaining codes and drove the car around a bit for about 20min with the OBD2 scanner and FORSCAN on my Android phone was checking battery temp and BSOC ( i had no idea what i was looking for) but the codes did no return and BSOC stayed near 40 - 42% ( i read on here that 40-50% is the optimal range of functionality).

After driving around the neighborhood and no codes reappearing i performed an oil change and drove it on the freeway with no issues.

​​​​​​I also read on here that it may have been a relay issue so i ordered two and will be replacing the 001 relay in the engine fuse box relating to the charging of the HV battery.

Aside from this i am still stumped on what the issue may be. Also driving with my A/C on now and if all goes well i will perform an A/ C service real soon. Still any input or tips would be greatly appreciated. Also what modules should I be looking at using the ForScan tool?

 

The P0562 and C1524 codes stands out to me. The P0562 code is set when the 12V battery voltage drops under 10V for at least 60 seconds. Normally the 12V inverter from the HV hybrid battery keeps the voltage in the 14V range.

The C1524 code will occur if the 12V battery is disconnected. It clears after applying the brake pedal fully a few times to calibrate the brake pedal travel sensor.

These two codes shouldn't occur if the 12V battery has a good charge and good connections. Try checking the 12V battery voltage with the key off and headlights on. It should be around 12.4 to 12.6V with a good battery. If it is under 12V your battery isn't holding a charge. If it is under 11V you most likely have a bad or shorted cell in the 12V battery.

Regarding the jerking while accelerating from a stop, that could be the HV hybrid battery. But make sure the 12V battery is in good shape before going down that road.

 

Okay so an update on Saturdays work

So started off by making sure the 12v negative ground to the car was clean from corrosion and that it was connecting to metal and not paint. Also cleaned both 12v battery terminal connections of grim and corrosion ( wasn't bad to where I needed to clean but a preventative mesure). Also checked fuses and replaced the 001 power sustain relay under the hood with one of the cooling fan ones as a preventative mesure ( meanwhile the new ordered ones came in) and that was it.

Erased the codes with forscan and monitored HV battery and temp along with discharge rate

Now I am not anywhere near smart enough to diagnose a car but I stressed tested the car for a good 20min with out any problems.
Drove it below 40mph around my neighbor Hood and accelerated hard up a hill but the battery stayed with in 40-42 % SOC and showed no signs of overheating. ( Looking back should have saved a screenshot)

​​​​​I did perform a oil change as I was close to 8k miles since the last oil change but only because I did not see any codes having came back.

I drove it to work 40mile round trip with no issues and yesterday I performed a HV battery rebalance which completed fairly quick but did not experience any performance improvements, but I believe the HV battery is still at healthy lvs will check this out today and provide screenshots.

As for the ABS codes I did assume it was due to me unplugging the battery so I chucked that code and disregarded that as user error on my part, but yeah no other issues have arose.

​​​​​​Thanks Nash I will check the 12v battery and check back with you on that one but seeing as it is virtually brand new I don't believe that's the problem but regardless I will check it out ( electronics act up I know ) thanks for your insight.

Oh and as for the jerking I read on here that a hot battery could cause a multitude of problems one of wich could be problems with charging so yeah that could be reason for my "incident" so I am now waiting a few min before I get going and warming up the car before I start my trips.

Appreciate nthe input will keep this updated

 

Jerking from acceleration could be engine coming on too. FWD should not have a PTU. The other thing I thought was that but you are FWD, unless someone took out the drive shaft and sold it as non AWD.

 

Well it has been 4 days straight that I have been driving with no further issues. I believe the issues arrose from rapid acceleration possibly heating up the battery and it discharged to a point where charging wasn't being as efficient do to heat.

At this point I am confident in it's usability and will be performing a transmission fluid change since last time I put Valvoline mercon V and just recently bought the motorcraft mercon V to replace it with (driving for 5k miles with no issues aside from this one). Also going to replace the coolant and hopefully the engine coolant although the process to that seems iffy.

Also fyi been monomonito the car temps with forscan ( definitely a must) and haven't seen any issues. I do believe these cars don't like you putting the pedal to the metal.

 

My 07’ 4WD FEH occasionally does weird things like being jerky with engine RPMs all over the place when going 60MPH up an incline, or being really sluggish at slow speeds like the traction motor isn’t engaging. These incidents have been seemingly random but thankfully pretty infrequent and short-lived; they never throw codes. I don't think they are related to battery temperature because they usually happen towards the beginning of a drive (but after engine warm-up).

 

Those happen on my '10 as well. I think you'll notice in the high-RPM events that the charge/discharge gauge on the dash is showing that the traction motor is giving very little or no assist and as a result the ICE works harder/more RPM. This happens to my car when I've let it sit in the ON position with accessories for a long time - say 15 minutes - so that the battery pack has been discharged a bit. At that point the system will not call upon the traction motor to supply a lot of torque and the ICE has to compensate. Once everything charges back up the car goes back to normal behavior with the traction motor supplying more torque to "boost" acceleration.