Starting Problems
#1
Starting Problems
I have been lurking here for a while but I just registered to post what just happened to my 2005 Escape a few minutes ago and to see if anyone has any suggestions.
I had just gotten done rolling the windows up on the car for the night. They rolled up fine and the radio and interior lights came on when I was in the car. I closed the doors and as I was walking away I hit the lock on the keyless intry and...nothing... When I opened the car door no lights came on, no radio nothing...and it wouldn't start. This was literaly 5 seconds after I had rolled the windows up and shut the door...no joke.
I checked the voltage on the 12v battery and it was 5.5v. I had driven the car plenty today so it should have a full charge.
I jump started the Escape from my Nissan and it started fine and with the engine running the battery was at 14v so the alternator seemed to be working. I let it sit running for 5 minutes or so and when the engine got to operating temp and normally would shut off by itself, the entire car shut off.
I had to jump it again to get it running. Once it was running again I put the AC on max so the engine wouldn't shut off and drove it around hoping the battery would charge up. After this second jump start the ABS, Brake Light, and "service brake system" messages were on. I didn't notice if this was happening on the first jump. As I drove the car around I didn't have any regen braking and all the brake lights were still on in the dash. Then after about 10 minutes of driving the lights went off and regen braking came back.
When I stopped the car after about 20 minutes of driving and shut it off and tried to get it going again, everything was dead. 12v battery had 5.5v so it didn't take any charge.
My question is what is going on. If any of my other cars had done this I would say the 12v battery is gone, but all the brake stuff acting weird has me nervous it is something larger.
The car is still under warranty so I plan to take it in and have it checked out...need to do the recall stuff anyway. Also, it is a pretty cold night here...low 40, but that shouldn't kill a battery that fast.
Thanks in advance.
I had just gotten done rolling the windows up on the car for the night. They rolled up fine and the radio and interior lights came on when I was in the car. I closed the doors and as I was walking away I hit the lock on the keyless intry and...nothing... When I opened the car door no lights came on, no radio nothing...and it wouldn't start. This was literaly 5 seconds after I had rolled the windows up and shut the door...no joke.
I checked the voltage on the 12v battery and it was 5.5v. I had driven the car plenty today so it should have a full charge.
I jump started the Escape from my Nissan and it started fine and with the engine running the battery was at 14v so the alternator seemed to be working. I let it sit running for 5 minutes or so and when the engine got to operating temp and normally would shut off by itself, the entire car shut off.
I had to jump it again to get it running. Once it was running again I put the AC on max so the engine wouldn't shut off and drove it around hoping the battery would charge up. After this second jump start the ABS, Brake Light, and "service brake system" messages were on. I didn't notice if this was happening on the first jump. As I drove the car around I didn't have any regen braking and all the brake lights were still on in the dash. Then after about 10 minutes of driving the lights went off and regen braking came back.
When I stopped the car after about 20 minutes of driving and shut it off and tried to get it going again, everything was dead. 12v battery had 5.5v so it didn't take any charge.
My question is what is going on. If any of my other cars had done this I would say the 12v battery is gone, but all the brake stuff acting weird has me nervous it is something larger.
The car is still under warranty so I plan to take it in and have it checked out...need to do the recall stuff anyway. Also, it is a pretty cold night here...low 40, but that shouldn't kill a battery that fast.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Re: Starting Problems
Have you had your 2005 Hybrid into the dealer for the Ford initiated recall? This recall installs a new wiring harness inside the hybrid battery. If you have not recieved a letter from Ford, go to your local dealer and have them check your VIN against this recall. Your symptoms may be related to this recall.
I'm not sure where you live but some autoparts stores (autozone for one) will put "code readers" into your vehicles ORBII port for free and obtain (maybe) a code if your vehicle has a problem. This code should provides a diagnosis of the problem. You can also purchase a code reader from stores such as Walmart and then you can do anytime and when you have a problem.
I'm not sure where you live but some autoparts stores (autozone for one) will put "code readers" into your vehicles ORBII port for free and obtain (maybe) a code if your vehicle has a problem. This code should provides a diagnosis of the problem. You can also purchase a code reader from stores such as Walmart and then you can do anytime and when you have a problem.
#3
Re: Starting Problems
It sound like your 12 volt battery is bad and will need replaced.
It might be that the battery cable's are needing cleaned.
The shop will be able to load test the battery for you and also see if the cable's need cleaned.
It might be that the battery cable's are needing cleaned.
The shop will be able to load test the battery for you and also see if the cable's need cleaned.
#4
Re: Starting Problems
Sounds like you have a 12v battery problem.
The only reason the 12v battery is there, is to hold memory when the car is off, and to "turn on" the relays for the 330v battery when you turn the key.
It is the 330v battery, and ONLY the 330v battery that starts the car.
Your hybrid has a 330v starter motor, not a 12v starter motor.
The hybrid does not have an alternator, like a regular car.
It has a high voltage DC to low voltage DC converter that keeps the 12v battery topped off, and actually runs all your power windows and headlamps, everything. But if the 12v battery gets too low, it will not be able to switch on the big battery, which runs everything.
Once the car is "started" you can drive away with the 12v battery sitting in the garage. I've done it. But I did get an ABS warning lamp, but brakes still worked with the 12v battery totally removed. If I turned off the car, I would have not been able to turn anything back on.
Get your 12v battery fixed or replaced and you should be as good as new!
-John
The only reason the 12v battery is there, is to hold memory when the car is off, and to "turn on" the relays for the 330v battery when you turn the key.
It is the 330v battery, and ONLY the 330v battery that starts the car.
Your hybrid has a 330v starter motor, not a 12v starter motor.
The hybrid does not have an alternator, like a regular car.
It has a high voltage DC to low voltage DC converter that keeps the 12v battery topped off, and actually runs all your power windows and headlamps, everything. But if the 12v battery gets too low, it will not be able to switch on the big battery, which runs everything.
Once the car is "started" you can drive away with the 12v battery sitting in the garage. I've done it. But I did get an ABS warning lamp, but brakes still worked with the 12v battery totally removed. If I turned off the car, I would have not been able to turn anything back on.
Get your 12v battery fixed or replaced and you should be as good as new!
-John
#6
Re: Starting Problems
GaryG
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