I've had a split tone ring for a while now so I decided to replace it myself. As an aside, I epoxied the split ring a month or so ago and it was still tightly held in place. It gave me an occasional flash of the ABS light on a fast stop on dry pavement, but was otherwise serviceable.

A few things that I learned in replacing the tone ring, in no particular order.

The tone ring is only about $10 at Rock Auto with a couple bucks shipping.

You'll need a wheel puller to push out the axle from the hub. Auto Zone has a program where you can buy pullers and return them used for a full refund. This is not a scam on them, it is how they handle their tool "rentals".

The nut on the axle shaft can be removed with a 1 1/4" socket. To hold the wheel from turning, I cut a short 2x4 and used the front power seat to hold the brake pedal down. The shop manual says to NOT have the tire on the ground with weight on the bearing while the nut is tightened. Not sure why, but they make a big deal of it.

The nut has to be re-tightened to 220 foot lbs. I don't have a torque wrench that big, so I stood on the breaker bar at a appropriate length to achieve 220 ft lb. (180# x 1.22 ft)

By far the hardest part, for me, was getting the lower ball joint stud out. After removing the bolt, I drove a small chisel into the split to open the pinch clamp a little. I was then able to pry the stud part way out. Unfortunately, I was stuck at this point for hours. What I learned is that the lower control arm puts a side load on the ball joint which varies depending on the wheel position with respect to jounce and rebound (up and down motion). I ended up supporting the bottom of the front strut with a metal bar across two jack stands. I found that when I compressed the front strut about 1" by lowering the vehicle on the jack stands and turning the wheel straight, the side load is minimized and I could pop out the lower ball joint stud.

I didn't remove the tie rod or the brake caliper.

I wire brushed and sanded the landing for the new tone ring, but even after I heated the ring with a propane torch, it was a very tight fit. I used the old tone ring to protect the new one as I tapped it on. When I was done I painted the new tone ring with rust reformer paint in hopes of sealing out the salt in the future.

Total cost of repair was about $12.

 

Tom, good write up, thanks.

Just for future reference, do you know what the dealer would charge for this job?

Am I right that most front end and brake shops could do this job, or is there something about it that makes it hybrid specific or dealer only?

Thanks again.

 

My understanding is that the dealer will replace the entire half shaft rather than install a new tone ring. Numbers that I have seen reported are about $500 total.

Nothing hybrid specific about it, or dealer only. I'm sure that a small independent shop could do this. I'd guess that labor would be about 1.5 hours.

 

For what it's worth, my local mechanic went to Napa, got a rebuilt half-shaft with new tone ring, and the entire job with labor was $180. Lots more than others, but it was done in an hour and I was back on the road (where my living is made). Worth every penny to me, to be honest, but I sincerely respect the effort to do it yourself, man !!

Nice job...


Gary

 

I replaced the half shaft and didn't need a puller to separate the axle from the hub. Maybe my experience was exceptional. If memory serves, the biggest headache was separating the lower ball joint. I think I gave something like $65 for the half shaft at O'Reilly Auto.

 

I had this work done at the dealer in Queensbury NY this past Friday. It was under warranty so I can't tell you the cost but they just replaced the tone ring itself, not the shaft. Surprisingly, I was in and out in about an hour.

 

I didn't replace mine for the tone ring. I had a torn boot which led to a bad u-joint. The tone ring was already on the new half shaft. If I had a broken tone ring, I might consider changing the half-shaft anyway since I was already in there. I guess that would depend on how many miles were on the car. Mine's got neary 170k mi so I often change what I can when I'm working on it.

 

My 2006 FEH (with 104,000) recently had a tone ring replaced by a Ford Dealer in about an hour and for $130 (all inclusive). The bad one was split (cross-wise). They ONLY replaced the ring ... nothing else. They offered to do both (preventative maint?) for $100 more. I declined on the basis that the less they do the safer I am. Going to be interesting to see how long the other one lasts.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to look around and see what the local mechanics want to do the job. I need one of mine replaced now on my '06 FEH with 114K.

 

I have did the metal weld on the tone ring and has worked well since July 2012 and now for the first time it has slid slightly out of alignment and made the ABS light and AWD message again. I pushed over in alignment the weld has held but must of got out of alignment during the last trip out of town. I know I was cruising at 85 MPH and this probably helped it slip.

I called around in my town and the Mercury dealer they project out the door at $265. The mom and pop local shop that has a good name for quality work and offered a 12K warranty on the axle and work want to exchange the axle as some mention in the replies. The right front axle and out the door around $220.

While I decide I plan on just using some metal weld on two spots and put it to the axle to keep it in line. Hmmm 8 mos on the last JB Weld...... I have a 136K on the Mariner which is mainly highway miles. I am wondering if I should cough up the cash to get a new axle or JB again for another 8 months....