On the battery heating/cooling thing: one direction will generate heat and the other will absorb heat. I'll have to lookup which one is which. Then there is always the heating due to current also going on.

As to the filter they do filter better as they get dirtier, it's just that the air flow goes down along with the better filtration. If they say it's still better than other filters, OK. But my issue is that with the oil there, which makes no difference to an engine, some trace amount will carry thru from the filter and deposit downstream (ie in the battery). The question is how much and how fast. You probably won't be able to detect it for years.

If set up right, I doubt this will be noticeable for a number of filter changes. But if you keep your FEH for at least 100k then it might become noticeable. That's all.

 

Corey, if your weather is cooling down, that will also help the battery temperature and EV to a point. Weather too cold will of course cause problems also.

The ideal battery temperature is 78F for the most efficient battery use. There are a lot of reasons my '09 FEH is more efficient than my '05, but by not allowing regen to heat-up my battery as much has changed my strategy as far as battery management. First of all, the Aux A/C runs far less now, so the engine is more efficient. The engine runs more efficient in hot weather also. I've changed how hot weather lowered my MPG in the past in both my FEH, to getting near the same or better MPG as in the winter here. You can see the improvements in my Mileage Log during the summer now vs in 2008 & 2009.

You may want to try less regen and work with a more efficient battery and more efficient engine during the summer. I know how to heat-up the battery in the winter with regen during a cold start and then maintain that temperature with less regen after. Once the normal operating engine temperature is reached, I'm good for the day.

GaryG

 

Interesting Gary... The climate here is pretty much the opposite with mileage results being much better in the summer. The average temperature in the summer here would be close to the optimum temp you quoted for best battery performance. I have trouble with the cold in the winter killing mileage. This year I'm going to look at some strategies for improving that such as a radiator restrictor and possibly a block heater. Average temperatures hover in the 30 to 50 degree range from late fall through early Spring here. My experience with mileage in my first winter with the car was about a 2MPG drop from summer. I'll have to get the battery temp gauge input into my scangauge so I can start getting a feel for optimum operating ranges. I'm pretty much going by feel right now. I know what the PCM will allow and I try to stay within that to take advantage of the stored energy. These hills around here often don't allow much forgiveness in trying to keep the heat down in the battery.

 

Still not sure why you would change the filter... The idea is not to have to change it or clean it for that matter as long as it's flowing enough air to work properly.

 

OK, whether you change the filter or not, the issue is how long the trace oil that gets into the airstream has to get in there. My experience in other places says that the oil will get into the battery, even if very, very slowly.

I'd take your point that you're probably thinking as to if you don't change the filter/clean & oil the filter, what's the issue.

Keep in mind I'm speaking of trace oil working over a long period.

 

I have had my one and only K&N battery filter installed for 100,000 miles.
I've never purchased a paper battery filter in 130,000 miles.
No trouble whatsoever. And I seem to be the only guy who's original air blend door is still working too! (maybe the [doubtful] oild mist Bill is worried about is doing good!)

Seriously though... the air in the duct is about 0.1 psi and moves about 5 MPH.
As long as it's not dripping, I don't see how oil will make it to the battery.
The fans don't run all that often, and they are variable speed.

In 100,000 miles I've never washed mine, and never added any oil.
( I do check it about 2x per year.)
I'm totally convinced it is just there to stop bugs and leaves and pollen, so the oil is probably not needed at all.

 

Oh... one more thing....
Oil drips will not make it to the battery.
The air duct has a kind of J trap with a drain hole at the bottom...
just in case high pressure water from a car wash makes it in the air duct... as long as it is not gallons... it will seep or weep out of a 1/4" drain hole.

Ever notice in all these threads there is never a mention of someone getting water in their battery pack? Those developers at Ford thought of just aboug everything.
John

 

Keep telling yourself that. It'll make you feel better.

I was neither talking of entrained oil drops nor a mist. Just a very minor vapor extending over a long period of time...

But if it makes you feel better, who am I to quibble.

 

WD-40
Water Displacement formula 40.

Which is worse for something with 100 electrical connections.... water which forms corrosion, or light oil, something that prohibits corrosion?

I'll bet you a box of donuts my battery is in better shape than yours!


I'll also concede there is probably no difference, but push come to shove... the scales tip in my favor.

Water vapor is worse than oil vapor.
Plus... how hot do you need to get that filter to vaporize oil?
I think 250°C to be of any concern.

At 40°C the vapor pressure is 0.00000025 mm Hg. (6 zeros Bill I know your eye sight is going)
At 250°C the vapor pressure is 1 mm Hg.

 

I appreciate all of the knowledge on this board, but really are we worried about "oil vapors"???

I appreciate the info on the K&N option from John, and installed one per his instructions after my first OEM filter.

I agree that the filter is over-oiled from the factory for this purpose, and I very lightly re-oil after it is cleaned. I also use a K&N for my engine air filter, for my wife's vehicle, and for the last vehicle that I had. As long as you clean and re-oil them properly, ( allowing for proper drying time ) they will work better than paper for the life of the vehicle.

I also can appreciate the warranty concern that others may have, but I am not going to worry about something that "may" cause a discussion "if" I ever have an in warranty issue with the battery. But I will be ready to fight that fight if it ever occurs. Most likely I will be out of warranty when I have a problem anyways (just past 80K).