So I pulled into the garage after running some errands today, and noticed a small pool of oil forming under the FEH, right under the oil filter. Oil and filter were changed 3k miles ago at an independent shop about 1/2 mile from home. So I drove over there and they found the filter canister could be hand tightened another 1/4 turn. That seemed to fix the leak, so far. I know they changed the big O-ring when they changed the filter, but they didn't unscrew the drain plug or replace that small O-ring.

So any ideas on how to prevent a repeat of this problem?

Should that little O-ring get replaced at every filter change even if the drain plug isn't removed?

Does the filter canister get hand tightened just like a regular oil filter?

Thanks.

 

If the plug doesn't come out there is no need to replace the o-ring.

They either didn't tighten the canister correctly or they used a non-OEM o-ring that wasn't quite the same size as OEM.

The canister gets tightened until it bottoms out and with a good o-ring it should never be able to back out on it's own.

 

I've changed my oil always myself and didn't change the drain plug O-ring when you had to order it separately. Never any leaks, but I do change the plug O-ring now that it comes with the filter. I also always put a good coat of fresh oil on the O-rings to seal and help them go on easier. Since the larger filter O-ring doesn't just meet a flat surface like most hand tighten filters, I find it needs to be tighten further into the housing with a tool for a good seal. Most oil change places don't have the right tool for our filters I'm told. The filter tool I use is called "6 WRENCHES IN 1" and is orange plastic and will not damage the filter housing which is plastic also. It takes a standard 3/8" ratchet and extension to turn and works great. I got mine at Super WalMart, but haven't seen them there lately.

BTW, I have a 5 gallon water bottle that I use to store my old oil till I take it to Jiffy Lube for recycle. Having 2 vehicles, a lawn tractor, generator and pressure cleaner oil to change, this is the best way for me to make sure things get changed when needed.

Another hint I learned for those tires that lose air is use Bead Sealer from your local auto store. Those tubeless tires are a pain in the neck to keep pumping up.

GaryG

 

I've gone 2 oil changes and part way into a 3rd without removing the little drain plug or little o-ring.

That little plug is soft aluminum (? ?), and after 2 changes with a standard allen wrench, became "round" in my case. So now I just leave it in. It's pretty much useless anyhow. I don't spill a drop just unscrewing the whole filter from the get go. I always screw mine back on just hand tight, which is what is required. No leaks, ever. I find the oil canister is in a more convienent spot than most other cars I have owned. Most people, and most quickie change places over-tighten. It's unusual to hear the reverse.

A few weeks ago I installed two run-time meters.
One meter records all run time.
The seconds meter only records engine on time.

I have gone a little more than 5,000 miles.
I just hit 100 total hours, and this was 84 engine on hours.

Ford says to change oil every 10,000 miles OR 200 hours.
I'm driving about 75% highway and 25% city.
So I am getting miles faster than hours, but in the city, you can see my engine was off for 16 hours of drive time in about 6 weeks.
Just thought you all might find that interesting.
-John

 

Second that, the tool is kinda new and only seems to work on the Fords and Mazdas that use the 2.3L engine. With out the tool its kinda hard to judge if it is tightened correctly. This is what happened. The tool is not that expensive you might want to consider buying it.
NAPA part
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...ench+-+End+Cap

 

Likely thats intentional. Make it out of hard metal and people crank on it hard enough to crack/strip the main oil filter casing. Make it soft and it strips first. The plug is cheaper to replace than the whole casing. People tend to complain about the soft oil plugs stripping as well on vehicles. But they don't need to be as tight as most people think. In the oil plug case... I'd rather replace an oil plug than an oil pan.

 

We get several in from oil change centers that told the customer they need a new oil pan because the bolt is stripped. Remove the bolt and install a new one and all is well. Unless somebody tried to use a self-tapping oversize drain plug then they really do need a pan.

 

John, if you used a standard allen wrench, that may have been the problem. The aluminum plug uses a metric 6mm allen wrench. I've never had a problem with mine because it's a tight fit.

My first oil change I found the oil canister screwed all the way on. It took a number of hard turns with a wrench before I could begin using my hands to remove it. That large O-ring make a very tight fit. For this reason, I don't just put it on hand tight like other filters with a flat seal. There is no need to torque it down, but I can tell when it gets snug. Same thing with the aluminum plug.

I would be concerned if I was not screwing that filter element firm at the top and the bottom of the canister so oil didn't bypass the filter.

GaryG

 

By "standard" I meant "nothing special".
I did not mean to imply English.
Metric is the "standard" for most of the world.

I used a 6mm each time FWIW.
-John

 

Sorry John, I just use the terms standard and metric as the two choices of sizes. I think Mark would agree that proper tools are the key to prevent damage. I'm one of those persons that will never use a damaged tool on a job either. I would have taken the tool and the vehicle to the dealership for over tightening myself if I were you.

This is why I buy craftsman tools because Sears will replace the tool if it gets damaged.

You didn't speak about the hand tightening comment I made. Do you agree or disagree and why?

GaryG